Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

General cycling advice ( NOT technical ! )
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reohn2
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by reohn2 »

pedals2slowly wrote:The key is - give value judgements with numbers and added up the scores - disc brakes win hands down.

No lengthy intellectual diatribe will win over practical hands on riding experience - for me (just me maybe) you can't beat disc brakes.
I won't be buying any new bikes without them.


Agreed,I've been riding BB7 discs for over ten years they are quite simply the best brakes I've ever used,totally and consistently great brakes.

The negative stuff posted by Brucey simply isn't true IME.
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pedals2slowly
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by pedals2slowly »

Brucey wrote: I have not read your 'reply'


Good old social media eh?
LuckyLuke
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by LuckyLuke »

pedals2slowly wrote:There are a lot of computer literate dinosaurs here :lol:
I used to value most of Brucey's contributions but he has lost a lot of respect now. His average of 10 comments a day in the last few years I suspect contains quite a percentage of b*****t. However as I always tell everybody - even if somebody talks total rubbish you need to keep listening for the odd gem of wisdom.


Pedals2slowly, this comment is out of order and is just an Ad Hominen attack.
E.g. R2 and Brucey agree to disagree on disc brakes, both state their reasons clearly but there's no digs and no handbags. Let's keep it civil eh?
Best wishes,
Luke
recumbentpanda
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by recumbentpanda »

I am interested by two of Brucey’s points and would like to know more:

1. Under what conditions do disc brakes fail completely and without warning? (I really want to know this!)

2. Conventional wisdom among mountain bikers and others has always seemed to be that discs are more consistent in the wet not less. Am interested that you should have had such a different experience.
reohn2
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by reohn2 »

LuckyLuke wrote:
pedals2slowly wrote:There are a lot of computer literate dinosaurs here :lol:
I used to value most of Brucey's contributions but he has lost a lot of respect now. His average of 10 comments a day in the last few years I suspect contains quite a percentage of b*****t. However as I always tell everybody - even if somebody talks total rubbish you need to keep listening for the odd gem of wisdom.


Pedals2slowly, this comment is out of order and is just an Ad Hominen attack.
E.g. R2 and Brucey agree to disagree on disc brakes, both state their reasons clearly but there's no digs and no handbags. Let's keep it civil eh?
Best wishes,
Luke

I agree,there's no need for personal attacks.
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MartinC
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by MartinC »

al_yrpal wrote:Rejection of disk brakes reminds me of rejection of the horseless carriage! :lol:

Al


I haven't seen a post rejecting disk brakes. I've seen posts pointing out the negative features of disk and other brakes (in the real world everything has positive and negative features.

Which leads me on to why is it some posters can't tolerate any negative posts about their favourite technology and feel the need to try and take others to task for not following the party line? There's lots of bike technology I find useful and lots I don't but I'm not emotionally committed to any of it. I get fed up with "xyz is the best thing since sliced bread and anybody who doesn't agree is wrong" type posts. I also get fed up with the proliferation of standards which benefits no-one but the manufacturers
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al_yrpal
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by al_yrpal »

Disc brakes arent my go to technology. They are just an improvement that works very well IMO. Everyone is entitled to an opinion. If you dont like disc brakes, dont buy them!

Remember toe clips and downtube shifters? :lol:

Al
Reuse, recycle, thus do your bit to save the planet.... Get stuff at auctions, Dump, Charity Shops, Facebook Marketplace, Ebay, Car Boots. Choose an Old House, and a Banger ..... And cycle as often as you can......
recumbentpanda
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by recumbentpanda »

I used to love my downtube shifters! Having to tighten them up every few miles helped pass the time on long boring rides!!
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al_yrpal
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by al_yrpal »

recumbentpanda wrote:I used to love my downtube shifters! Having to tighten them up every few miles helped pass the time on long boring rides!!


I have bar end shifters on my tourer almost as good! :lol:

Al
Reuse, recycle, thus do your bit to save the planet.... Get stuff at auctions, Dump, Charity Shops, Facebook Marketplace, Ebay, Car Boots. Choose an Old House, and a Banger ..... And cycle as often as you can......
Brucey
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by Brucey »

recumbentpanda wrote:I am interested by two of Brucey’s points and would like to know more:

1. Under what conditions do disc brakes fail completely and without warning? (I really want to know this!)

2. Conventional wisdom among mountain bikers and others has always seemed to be that discs are more consistent in the wet not less. Am interested that you should have had such a different experience.


re 1)

a) Hydro discs rely upon some fairly flimsy rubber seals to retain the fluid. There is only a few microns of rubber keeping the fluid in, and (unlike most motorcycle or car disc brakes) there is no secondary shielding to keep crud out of the caliper piston bores. Dirt ingress and corrosion of caliper bores is not at all uncommon. There is also little reinforcement in the brake hoses that are used on bicycle brakes. The result is that bicycle hydro disc brakes are somewhat vulnerable to damage and quite likely to spring a leak. Since the brake fluid used is a pretty good lubricant, the brakes basically stop working if the pads and disc become contaminated. If the leak is bad enough the brake doesn't even try to work, because there won't be any pressure in the system.

b) brake pads are usually about 4mm total thickness, being 1.6 to 1.8mm backing and 2.2 to 2.4mm friction material. Once the pad is worn, the remaining friction material can part company with the backing in one go. With hydro discs, this can leave you with no brake until you have worked the brake lever a couple of times and allowed the pistons to come out further. In some caliper designs (esp those without pad retaining pins), an offset disc can allow a whole worn pad to escape through the caliper slot.

c) it is very uncommon but it is possible for caliper bodies (which are cast not forged ) to just snap in half

d) discs can wear very quickly when some pad/disc types are used. Many modern 'Road bike' disc designs get powerful braking out of small disc diameters by using a highly abrasive pad compound. In some cases two sets of pads and the disc is worn below the wear limit. If the disc fails suddenly (quite likely with worn sandwich discs) then 'no brakes'....

e) bicycle disc brakes are simply not built to tolerate prolonged heat soak. This means on mechanical disc brakes plastic parts (eg the adjuster knobs on BB5/BB7 can go all Salvadore Dali on you, and in hydro discs the fluid can boil spontaneously, especially if it is contaminated with water. Because of the dynamics of heat soak this can happen when you are off the brakes; the result is that in one corner you have brakes, but for the next one, you don't. [Very probably this is what happened to the Italian fellow a few days ago.] This is most likely to happen if you descend fairly slowly on a very big hill. But such problems can occur on a descent with a drop of just 1000' or so, which is not so much 'Alps' as 'Home Counties'. Unless you have seen this happen with your own eyes you may not believe it to be possible, but it happened to a cycling journalist (who previously had sung the praises of disc brakes) a few years ago, and he was lucky enough to be able to write a more measured appraisal of the brakes from his hospital bed.

2) regarding MTB brakes. I started using hydro discs on MTBs, where some aspects of their performance were quite welcome. However it turns out that there is a fundamental difference between MTB use and road use; in the former case most of the braking is planned braking but on the road the really important stuff that might save your life isn't. In planned braking you can give the brake a little squeeze ahead of time and make sure that the pads and disc are clean and the brake will work properly, as you expect, in a few second's time when you really need it. In road use, you can't always do this, with the result that you only have whatever brakes you have in an emergency. If disc brakes are wet, there is always some lag. Since even when it is raining you can't ever be 100% sure that the brakes are wet or dry, you can't afford to go 'full gas' on the brakes because if they happen to be dry, you will be over the bars within half a second. If you only apply the brakes initially so that they don't throw you over the bars should they be dry, when they are in fact wet, they won't work at all for half a second or so until you either realise you are not slowing down and modulate the brakes, or you dry the discs off. Similar issues exist in many other braking systems which is why ABS is used; you can slam on brakes (brakes which might be too powerful and will easily lock the wheels on a wet road, or alternatively be wet through and hardly working at all) and the system will sort itself out. No such device exists for a bicycle.

Proponents of 'powerful brakes are always better' appear not to understand that your feedback loop for controlling that power is at least half a second long. If you don't want to risk going over the bars, the first half a second of braking is at some lower power, and then you can bring the brake power up. Well that is too long on a bike; you should be aiming to stop dead in a little over one second from normal speeds. This means that a really good set of bicycle brakes is perhaps one that won't quite chuck you over the handlebars no matter what you do, and that is perfectly consistent on first application. Even if such brakes are only 80% the peak power of the most powerful brakes, you will emergency stop consistently quicker with them because they can be 'full on' from the start and you won't have to try and modulate the power between 'not enough' and 'too much'.

Very powerful brakes merely create the illusion of better emergency braking; the reality is that without appropriate control, they can cause more accidents than they prevent, and that when some dozy bugger steps off the pavement in front of you, you might well pull up more quickly using supposedly 'inferior' brakes.

Disc brakes have some good things going for them, sure. But they also have shortcomings too; every brake type has. The 'discs are always best' argument has more holes in it than, er, the average brake disc does.....

cheers
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Brucey
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by Brucey »

reohn2 wrote:….The negative stuff posted by Brucey simply isn't true IME.


well tell me which bit you think 'isn't true' and I will try and explain it better.

cheers
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Pneumant
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by Pneumant »

pedals2slowly wrote:But crap in the pouring rain:

Not in my experience. I squeeze the lever and the bike stops. If you think about it the rim is essentially a BIG disc brake.
pedals2slowly wrote:.... and (unbelievably) designed to wear away one of the most important structural parts of your bicycle - the rim! :lol:

The bicycle rim is a consumable to me, when they wear out or are damaged I will swop a new rim in. Easy. I for one don't wish for a disc brake setup on a bicycle, all manner of potential problems including warping discs, failed lines, failed master cyclinder, seized caliper, leaking caliper and so on. Also when you slam into that huge pothole you'll still end up having to replace the rim... :roll:
pwa
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by pwa »

recumbentpanda wrote:I am interested by two of Brucey’s points and would like to know more:

1. Under what conditions do disc brakes fail completely and without warning? (I really want to know this!)

2. Conventional wisdom among mountain bikers and others has always seemed to be that discs are more consistent in the wet not less. Am interested that you should have had such a different experience.


I had an expensive Hope hydraulic disc brake fail completely (i.e. lever pulled completely back with no feeling that it was attached to anything). It was on a tandem, on a long, steep and twisty descent where building up speed was not an option and constant braking was required. And I was alternating between three brakes on that descent but must have used the disc brake too much. I think the fluid had boiled because later on some brake function did return.

That would not prevent me ever using disc brakes again, but it is a trait to be aware of.
Last edited by pwa on 20 Aug 2020, 8:23pm, edited 1 time in total.
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The utility cyclist
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by The utility cyclist »

reohn2 wrote:Braking for me is all about being able to stop safely and quickly from any speed riding within my capabilities.
Only idiots or the inexperienced ride on the wrong side of that criteria.
Over the years I've ridden cantis,Vs,single and dual pivot caliper,rim brakes and with a variety of of different pads in search of consistent and safe braking,all goes well until the rain begins and the rims pick up the road or trail muck and grit.
At that point consistency becomes increasingly variable.It's such variability that's a problem.
When we used to ride in winter whatever the weather,we searched for something better,discs eliminated the variability of rim brakes,I wss so impressed was I that I sold my rim braked bikes and went exclusively disc.BB7 cable discs to be precise.
I want for nothing better because IME there isn't anything better,that's a big statement but for me it holds true.
BB7's stop consistently with great modulation and single finger braking,that if I wish will lock up either wheel,they don't wear out rims,they don't compromise comfort because I ride nothing smaller than 700 x 37mm tyres and I can if needs be,strip and repair them by the roadside.
That criteria isn't everyone's criteria but then other people don't have my criteria.

The idea pushed by TUC that better brakes are worse is bunkum because that idea taken to it's logical conclusion is that poor or even no brakes are better.
I've experienced no brakes and I've experienced poor brakes and I prefer consistently good brakes whatever the weather

You said
Braking for me is all about being able to stop safely and quickly from any speed riding within my capabilities. Only idiots or the inexperienced ride on the wrong side of that criteria.

and then followed that up with
all goes well until the rain begins and the rims pick up the road or trail muck and grit.

I wouldn't call you an idiot, but one has to question the legitimacy of either statement as they contradict each other.

if you cannot stop (or regulate your speed) safely and quickly (quickly can often mean outstripping tyre grip as you should know being a disc user) in those conditions then maybe your experience with the brakes/rims/tyres/bike plus environment with respect to doing that isn't as good as you thought it was or the brakes you used weren't as well set up as they could be, as you were the wrong side of the criteria you specifically set out for what are fairly common conditions in the UK?
Your pushing the notion that a brake is better because you can't actually utilise some other brake to stop/retard your speed is totally illogical, it's also illogical that the brake is better when the defining aspect of braking is ultimately set, by the effectiveness of the tyre interface with the terrain and the ability of the rider.

Have you ever ridden 'downhill' on a hardtail MTB with V brakes in the mud, I have, I'm still here and all done without a helmet to boot :roll:

I'm guessing if a 17 year old lad can win the (very snowy.icy) world junior XC champs on a cantilever bike then there's a good chance there's plenty of consistency in braking ...
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recumbentpanda
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Re: Bestest ever bicycle brakes... ?

Post by recumbentpanda »

Thanks Brucey, your reply is helpful. I note the calipers I recently fitted, designed specifically for road touring (they say), have uprated piston seals.

Boiling of hydraulic fluid would appear to be a concern with long mountain descents, not that I do many of those, but I did fit the Shimano ‘Ice Tech’ sandwich discs. I am aware that wear on a laminated product like that will need to be watched. I also run a 180 disc up front for similar reason.

And now I feel vindicated in my choice of cable actuated or cable hydraulic.

Pads throwing their friction material I have heard of, but only with dodgy aftermarket off-brand parts. I also watch pad wear carefully.

While the bb7s may possibly melt their adjuster knobs, I don’t see that as much of an issue. The outside one turns flats that can be gripped and turned with pliers. How do I know this? I keep knocking mine off on the bloody bollard forests that grow around here. Fortunately they are cheap to replace. Also, the back ones are pointless as you can barely turn them through the spokes with your fingers. I gave up trying years ago and always adjust the fixed pad with a star-bit screwdriver!

As for calipers cracking in two, well, yeah, possible, but then I’ve seen a good pair of Weinemann side-pulls do the same!

On the subject of brake power and modulation I have to agree that ultimate braking force is not the criterion for a good brake. I once rode a rim brakes bike left at our house back to its owner. On arrival I told them on no account to ride it, and to get different pads fitted. The pads were so grabby there was literally no modulation, it was either ‘go’ or ‘dead stop’. Not being aware of this, I took a trip over the bars seconds after starting.

I deliberately run a comparatively feeble back brake on my short wheelbase bent, as the loading is very light at the back, and too much brake can easily skid it. Same with the front wheel on my long wheelbase bike, where the loads are reversed. No point having a load of Newtons you can’t safely use. The brakes will stop the bike in both cases, but not so sharply as the loaded wheel. I put those Shimano spring thingies (power modulators I think they are called) on a v-brake mountain bike for the same reason. Pros sneered at them but for road use they turn a very strong grabby ‘buckaroo’ brake into one that will still give you full force, but not throw you off if you grab it too hard in a panic.
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