Dynamo on Radleigh Touring bulb type?

[FV43576]

I have been restoration my Raleigh Touring 1959 and finished yesterday, the front lamp include the rear was missing when I purchase it. I have a Miller Dynamo rate of 6 Volts 3.24 watts. Today I have received a old Miller big chrome lamp for the front with three switch under the lamp and include the rear which it did not have bulbs!

So here is the question which power bulb is the correct? the one that I saw on eBay is 6 volts 3 watts would this be OK for two bulbs one for the front and one for the rear? or do I need to drop down to 3 volts bulbs? because I think if I had two 6 volts bulbs it wouldn't be bright as the 3 volts bulb? am I correct?
Thanks
Fab.

[gaz]

Edit: Duplicate, whoops

[gaz]

Dynamo systems typically run at a nominal 6v,3w. Both lamps are rated for 6v, the wattage of the two totalling 3w, typically 2.4w front and 0.6w rear.

Running lower voltage or wattage incandescant bulbs will give a brighter light but shorten service life. LED 'bulbs' contain all manner of electrickery in their circuits which may be a little more tolerant of an incorrect current. In any case it would be wise to add a voltage limiter.

Await further advice from others familiar with 60 year old dynamo systems, take a look at Reflectalite if you haven't already.

[Brucey]

the way dynamo systems are configured means that the two bulbs are run in parallel not series.

In simple terms this means there is a separate wire from the generator to each lamp, and each lamp can (for testing only, at very low speeds, higher is too much for the rear bulb alone) operate independently of one another. The current usually returns via an earth return, i.e. through the frame. If yours is like this the generator body must be in electrical contact with the frame.

The bulb ratings (for conventional incandescent bulbs, wired in parallel) you need are likely to be

6V 0.1A rear
6V 0.4A head

Making a total of 0.5A @ 6V i.e. about 3W. The exact correct/appropriate bulb rating may vary with the state of the generator, the type of bulbs you use and even how fast you ride. If you ride fast and the generator is in good shape you might be better off with 6V 0.5A head, 6V 0.1A tail.

BITD some folk used to deliberately 'overvolt' their bulbs, so that they would get more light and a shorter life. The generator will usually produce more volts when a lower current is drawn (which is why you will blow the rear bulb very quickly if it is the only one connected to the generator). so (for example) if you use 6V 0.1A tail and 6V 0.35A headlight bulbs, the generator is more likely to push out 7V rather than 6V, and the bulbs will see more power than they are designed for.

FWIW I second the recommendation for reflectalite LED bulbs; you will get quite a lot more light from these, at low speeds especially, and they will fit to the lamp housings you have, with no modifications. They should also last a lot longer too.

cheers

[FV43576]

Thanks very much for the reply. It is a very helpful

[SA_SA_SA]

For legality or peace of mind, I would also fit one or more german stzvo approved (K marked) rear lamp(s) in addition to that reflectalite rear (very very bright probably) .

[cycle tramp]

Hello There,
I've got some halogen screw in bulbs for the head lamp rated at 2.4 volts and no end of 0.6 volt tail lights.
If you drop me a PM with a name and a safe address to which they may be recieved, I'll place them in the post to you.
As though having looked at the refectalite web site, I'd view the bulbs that I've offered as a 'stop gap', the led bulbs offered by refectalite do look impressive
Hope that helps

[wjhall]

I intended to draw attention to the increasing crescendo of reminders to use an external regulator as you go down the Reflectalite page, but can no longer find the page.

However, the ebay supplier recommended above, does recommend an external regulator, saying that the integral protection in the LED bulb can fail at high outputs. The Miller is not a modern generator, but it is quite a good one.

They also say that you can use up to three Nicelites on a 3 W generator, which suggests that the individual Nicelites have a higher impedance than filament bulbs. High impedance is the condition that causes overvoltage.

A simpler retro solution for users without electronic training could be to buy a retro style modern LED lamp, fully to German standards, including standlight. They are available at about 18 euro from German suppliers. Delivery probably about 7 euro.

[gaz]

I intended to draw attention to the increasing crescendo of reminders to use an external regulator as you go down the Reflectalite page, but can no longer find the page.

The Reflectalite website has been down for some time now, possibly demised. Some of the info remains on the wayback machine: http://web.archive.org/web/201908130205 ... Dpage.html

The ebay seller linked above is essentially Reflectalite's current shop. Voltage regulators remain available in the drop down options on this listing although it's not obvious at a glance. Descriptions of available regulators and LED bulbs in the pictures.

[Brucey]

FWIW I have successfully converted a vintage miller headlight (of the sort with the smaller rather than larger diameter) to 'full modern' internals; it turned out that the modern reflector was the exact correct size to fit the Miller shell, so it was a fairly easy transplant. I guess if you wanted to quibble you might say it lacks the side visibility of a modern light, but a vintage lamp on a vintage bike isn't required to have that.

cheers

[Al Wright]

I used to have Millar dynamo and lights on my first 'work' bike. In this case the bulbs in the headlamp were located one in the center of the reflector (focus), the other overhead. They were switched in 'main, dipped beam' arrangement, only one bulb lighted at one time.