Vintage bike help

[thirdcrank]

Part of your problem is likely to be how much of the bike trade is now online. eg If you want a crank extractor for any bike, you need the right one for the cranks. You need to know the precise details of what you want. Ditto everything else.

It's very hard with something like this not to come across as patronising / a bike snob / negative when trying to be realistic. What you've got is what was once called a "sports bike." Nothing wrong with that but it's not the sort of classic lightweight that people cherish and sometimes spend big money on to keep in mint condition. Once upon a time Falcon was an admired marque and I think that your machine dates from that era but it was from the lower end of their range.
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PS re tools. There are all sorts of work-rounds including a way to remove a fixed cup with a big bolt and so on but unless you really know there's something wrong, taking it apart just for the sake of it would be unnecessary.

[gregoryoftours]

I would suggest doing the absolute minimum getting it to a rideable state (brake blocks, cheap 27 x 1 1/4 tyres if absolutely necessary) and ride it for a bit to see if you want to keep it, either as it is (which is what I'd suggest) or invest in it. Personally I really like the aesthetics of it, the frame paint job etc.

While clean and tidy it is a low end bog standard bike for its time, and is either a 'run it as it is bike' or a labor of love project bike where value for money is most definitely not the point, but the process and learning is. Normally this is done with some old high quality classic bike. You'll still not end up with a 'good' bike for the money you've spent on it. Other second hand bikes would be a much better starting point if you want that.

[thirdcrank]

Just as an example of the problems of buying online, especially if you are not totally sure of what you want, I looked for 27 x 1¼ tyres on Halfords. (Afaik, still the cUK shop.)

Two Schwalbes, the cheaper described as 27 x 1.25 (which isn't a recognised size although we know what they probably mean) but the product info is 700c (which again isn't really a recognised size and although we know what they probably mean, it's not 27 x 1¼ ) but above all, they don't seem to quote the ERTRO which is the only dependable one and the online entry has been compiled by somebody without a clue.

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-p ... 56243.html

It's easy to say support your local bike shop, but I think 27 x 1¼ tyres won't be widely stocked. They are out there, but you can't just go into a shop and check what's printed on the tyre.

PS the ETRO you need is as on your tyre in the pic 32-630, especially the 630

[gregoryoftours]

Just swapping the wheels would be a significant change already, and would bring up many other issues. You'd need wheels, tyres, tubes, rim tape. You may have to file the fork dropouts wider, many old wheels have a smaller diameter front axle than more recent wheels.

There looks to be leeway for drop in your brakes but it's hard to tell with the photo angle, you may well need new brakes (and cables) if you go 700c.

A cassette would be problematic - your chain, rings, derailleurs and frame are designed around non indexed 5 speed and are accordingly agricultural (I don't mean that in a bad way - it's simple and will last, but compatibility is an issue).

Getting a suitable rear wheel designed for 5/6 speed freewheel might be difficult. Replacing with a cassette wheel would mean you need a narrower chain which will not work with your chainrings (too narrow for the spacing of the rings -it would jam between them or skate). You may also get chain suck, or the chain regularly coming off the chainrings in certain gears.

A new chainset would need a different bottom bracket spindle length. A narrower chain may also jam between the side of your rear derailleur cage and jockey wheels. Your rear derailleur may not have enough lateral travel for a wider cassette, or possibly even a 7 speed freewheel. It may also not accommodate larger sprockets, or be able to take up the chain slack needed for a wider range of gears.The outermost cog on a cassette may have frame clearance issues.

These are some of the issues I can think of, doubtless more would crop up! It would be an interesting project but an involved one. As I said, a labor of love!

I'd strongly suggest brake pads, pump the tyres and replace the tyres if you like the bike and want to use it further. Replace worn like for like if you can source old stuff cheaply.

[thirdcrank]

Re removal of bottom bracket components, I've dug this out in Sheldon Brown. A big advantage is that it was written long ago - when your bike would have been quite new - so it covers the subject rather than dismissing it. I hope it will give you at least a feeling for what you might be taking on.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

There are loads of useful bike servicing vids on youtube.

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PS This is from Park Tool. Unsurprisingly, it uses their products. Things don't always go so smoothly for ordinary people.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEv8irsdQI8

[SomeBen]

Thanks for all the replies. I gave the chain a quick scrub this morning. I moved the chain to the smallest cog and big chainring but wasn't sure if the derailleur position was correct. I couldn't figure out how to make any adjustment if it was needed. Would anyone be able to give some advice, please?

[tatanab]

but wasn't sure if the derailleur position was correct.

Looks ok to me
http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx? ... AbsPos=331

[SomeBen]

Here's the position when in the middle cog and small chainring too.

[Chris56]

What does it look like on largest chainring and largest sprocket?

[thirdcrank]

Going right back to your first pics, the rear wheel looks too far forward in the dropouts.

As illustrated so far, the rear mech looks ok to me - at least, it doesn't look silly.

Which gear adjustments have you in mind? With a mech like that, the main ones are the stops which prevent over-changing off either end of the freewheel block.

[SomeBen]

What does it look like on largest chainring and largest sprocket?

[thirdcrank]

That looks ok to me.

[SomeBen]

Going right back to your first pics, the rear wheel looks too far forward in the dropouts.

As illustrated so far, the rear mech looks ok to me - at least, it doesn't look silly.

Which gear adjustments have you in mind? With a mech like that, the main ones are the stops which prevent over-changing off either end of the freewheel block.

The derailleur needs a little bit of adjustment as it was pinging the spokes. I've also noticed there is something preventing me from moving the chain across the chainrings when turning the cranks. Maybe to prevent me crossing the chain? Someone told me to try pedalling backwards! The derailleur is sitting as far back as possible but seems to slip forward when tightening it up. Would a slight bend in the dropouts cause this?

[thirdcrank]

If the derailleur is catching the spokes, it may need a tad of adjustment to the screw which stops it moving off that end of the freewheel block. Not much or it won't change onto the largest sprocket.

Your derailleur has a separate gear hanger rather than one incorporated in the dropout. (FWIW as sign of a cheaper frame in those days, unlike now when a separate hanger is a sacrificial part.) I'm not clear what you are saying about the hanger. It should be held in place by its own shape and the wheel's track nut. As I've said, your wheel looks too far forward.

I'm not clear about what's happening with your front mech (Double clanger in my lingo.) I cannot see back-pedalling helping anything. How are you testing your gears? If you stand your bike upside-down it won't behave the same way as upright. Ideally, you need a workstand or something improvised to allow you to pedal and change gear with the back wheel off the ground. Unless you have three arms a patient assistant may suffice at a pinch

track nut = the nuts holding the wheels in the frame

[531colin]

......
The derailleur needs a little bit of adjustment as it was pinging the spokes.

There are 2 screws on the mech....one is the top gear stop, the other is the bottom gear stop....thats the one which wants screwing in 1/2 to 1 turn.

..... I've also noticed there is something preventing me from moving the chain across the chainrings when turning the cranks. Maybe to prevent me crossing the chain? Someone told me to try pedalling backwards!

Does the F. mech. move in and out? Pedalling backwards will tangle it all up.

....The derailleur is sitting as far back as possible but seems to slip forward when tightening it up. Would a slight bend in the dropouts cause this?

Do you mean the wheel moves as you tighten the nuts? The usual reason is the threads are damaged and as you turn the nut, the axle turns and drives itself forwards......it can also change the bearing preload adjustment.

Crossed with TC