gregoryoftours wrote:I'd recommend the Shimano or Park anti seize. They're both aluminum solid additive and are silver in color. A tube will last a long time and is convenient for application. The 'brand surcharge' is offset by the fact that I trust the product to be good in this case.
As other people have said TF2 is a normal lithium grease. Normal lithium greases will of course have anti seize action to some extent but they don't have the solid elements added to them specifically for purpose. They don't work as well as dedicated anti seize.
The shimano anti-seize is white, my father-in-law uses it. It has an aluminium thickener (soap) but the additives are mostly calcium carbonate, a bit of zinc oxide (both white) and a pinch of silica.
Never used the park one myself but it looks silver in the adverts.
Coppaslip doesn't seem to be available in the US so I use Permatex Anti-seize grease which works just fine as far as I can see but has the remarkable property of getting grey stuff on everything that comes within 10 feet. Anybody know what that stuff is?
You only live once, which is enough if you do it right. - Mae West
Stuff is sold for the back of car brake pads as an alternative anti-squeal compound to copper grease. Some is very white, and rubber-based (you probably don't want that) but some is more clear or straw-coloured and is a very high temperature (1000 deg C)synthetic grease. Most brake brands do the stuff but my tube is Pagid.
I have no idea whether it is any good as an anti-seize, but it is good for coaster brake shoes in Duomatic hubs, as these can get absolutely shimmering hot.
I don't think anything other than metallic anti-seize does the job for awkward things like titanium threads, which gall unless there is a soft metal in between.
Grease will prevent the two parts rusting but won't stop similar metals picking up i.e. welding together. Which is why anti-seize compounds have metal solids included in the grease which differ from the metal that the parts are made from. This remains separating the parts long after the grease has dried up or been burnt off.
Steel into aluminium won't ever pick up but it will oxidize, so either grease or anti-seize will do provided they are renewed before drying out.
Yes - the stuff I’ve linked to, Weicon, I have used industrially, predominately to prevent galling of stainless steel screws in stainless steel components. I’ve also used it on auto and bike parts to good effect. Coppaslip tends not to be used industrially these days, in my experience, I guess because of environmental concerns.
Rocol still do tubes of copper-based anti-seize, I believe, if the OP wants to stick with what he’s already used successfully.
jb wrote: ↑5 Apr 2021, 9:38pm
Grease will prevent the two parts rusting but won't stop similar metals picking up i.e. welding together. Which is why anti-seize compounds have metal solids included in the grease which differ from the metal that the parts are made from. This remains separating the parts long after the grease has dried up or been burnt off.
Steel into aluminium won't ever pick up but it will oxidize, so either grease or anti-seize will do provided they are renewed before drying out.
That's certainly true of regular grease, but is it also true of high temperature synthetic greases that are marketed as anti seize, particularly for brakes?
ANTONISH wrote: ↑1 Apr 2021, 9:02am
Lithium grease should not be used on the interface between aluminium and steel - this has been widely known in the car trade for a long time.
I think the effect over time is to cold weld the two together.
I'd suggest either silicon grease or teflon grease.
I use Crystal White Lightning grease for everything on a bike. It's specially formulated for bikes and won't affect carbon frames. Aluminium-based and waterproof. I've done the wheel bearings, headset and seat posts on my two bikes and had no problems. I don't like the idea of having separate greases for different purposes, so the Crystal meets my need.
If I knew how to ride a bike, safely, I'd do it every time.
Cyclon Assembly Paste (ceramic-based) works well for me. Available from eBay sellers and the like, but also distributed in the UK by Cycle Division so any LBS with a Cycle Division account should be able to get hold of it. Not cheap, but a 150ml tube will last for ages and ages. Looks like white grease but behaves very differently, so be careful not to get the tubes mixed up (not that I've ever done such a thing <cough>).