I would suggest:
Try a higher bar position if easy to do.
Try (if you have not got them) interrupter brake levers on the tops (so you still keep the drop levers as well). allowing you to ride on the tops with brakes easy to hand:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-lever ... amp-black/ these allow you to brake from the tops, and they do work unlike the "suicide" extention levers of the 1970's that didn't work. You need aero cable routing type drop bar levers to use these.
Although I use drops, I also use;
Scott AT3 bars (flats with built in long bar ends is an approx decription).
I also get on with butterfly bars on the tandem (chosen for brake lever type, so the tail wagging the dog perhaps), but I found them fine.
The first buttefly bars I had were like the ones pictures up thread, but I wanted a longer reach, so I got some Humpert bars which had the clamp at the back (so all the handle bar was at/infront of the clamp).
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/handlebars/ ... amp-black/ these the"butterfly bit" can be adjusted in the same way you can adjust a bar end (the dark grey splodge on the outer bend is where you put your allen key to loosen the internal wedge to adjust the position).
Unlike the original bars, I get a bit of numbness in my hand after some miles which I don't get on my other bikes), so getting the angle right is obviously important.
What I miss when not using drop bars - being unable to lean forward to do long descents with my hands on the lever hoods. Descending on the tops/flats is just not the same.
Re windy Lincolnshire comment. A fair point. That said, in Holland I saw a tall Dutch roadster bike (proper one, full chaincase, mud guards, stand etc) with very high flat handlebars on it with yes, tri/aero bars bolted on!