https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-unive ... esta-valve
I was meaning rips so large that they probably won't be fixed with the aid of a repair kit. In all honesty I've never experimented with what kind of gap is required to not hold an inner but I have made the mistake of not quite seating a tyre once and only noticing when I'd got to about 40psi and the inner tube suddenly bubbled out & burst ear ringingly loudly!A 5mm rip as a fair chance of not sealing but that won 't hinder a tube.
Generally as long as you massage the bead into the rim properly there's enough of a seal to inflate with a regular pump. At least at home. Most guides on the matter do talk about potential need for an initial burst of pressure with various options for that but it's not something I've needed.Cowsham wrote: ↑3 Jul 2021, 11:24pm That's the bit that bothers me -- do you need a little co2 canister to blow the tyre up fast enough to make the seal against the rim or do you use sealant on the rims and if you do is it easy to get the tyre off clean the glue off and get the tyre back on again with new sealant or what's the deal with that ?
Would you not be better carrying a new foldable tubeless tyre?
Out mid ride might be a different matter, I've yet to have to deal with that. I've only had one suspected puncture on my mtb since running tubeless and it evidently self sealed (just suddenly dropped pressure for no apparent reason). A spare inner tube seems easier to me, I'm not tackling the kind of stuff that is likely to put a gash that bad in a tyre, if I were then a spare tyre would be needed tubeless or not.
The main benefit for me is eliminating pinch flats on the MTB while still being able to run lower pressures for traction in foul conditions. For road use, well those bikes are still tubed.simonineaston wrote: ↑3 Jul 2021, 9:46pm So, other than saving the weight of one inner tube - the other having to come along in case of a puncture that the sealant can't cope with... what am I missing out on, if I don't adopt The Tubeless Way?