6 speed freewheel 32T ?

[alan dun]

Any info please.
Am looking for a lower gear range on my old Holdsworth. Age etc !
freewheel currently 14/24 ,is anything out there maybe in the range 16/32,..or similar..
Rear mech is a Shimano Tourney.
thanks for any suggestions.

[mattsccm]

Pretty sure that bigger exists or at least it did. My 6 speed MTB in 1989 had a 28 tooth freewheel.
Maybe edit your title which mentions cassette when you correctly say freewheel in the post?

[PT1029]

Plenty of 13/14 - 28t 6 speed freewhels about. These days generally cheap and cheerful (sometimes just about cheerful..)
IRD do 13 - 32t 6 speed, better quality (I hope, for the price):-
https://southerndistributors.co.uk/prod ... 1-6-speed/

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/freewheels/ ... ompatible/

A short cage Shimano Tourney probably won't manage the 32t, but a long cage one would cope fine (I think).

You will ned a new chain if the current one is reasonably worn

[alan dun]

useful and thanks guys..
I will check with my local bike shop, last time they found a Suntour 6 speed for me, so think they will be able to help.

[thirdcrank]

14-28 is still widely available, but as already mentioned, you need to be sure what your rear mech can accommodate

[alan dun]

Ok,
think I will take a flyer on the IRD cyclone,seems to be compatible with the Tourney rear mech RD TY 300..well we'll see.
Apparantly the width at 3cm is the same as the old 14/24 so that should work too.
What could possibly go wrong !
If anyone has a used one lying around.. happy to buy , otherwise it's £60 !

[mcshroom]

There's also the Megarange Shimano TY 30. 14-34, but with a 10t jump from the 24t to the 34t!

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s112p20 ... -Freewheel

[Percy]

Any info please.
Am looking for a lower gear range on my old Holdsworth. Age etc !
freewheel currently 14/24 ,is anything out there maybe in the range 16/32,..or similar..
Rear mech is a Shimano Tourney.
thanks for any suggestions.

I bought a new beach cruiser that came with a Megarange freewheel; it's suitable for a mountain bike but horrible on a cruiser because the two largest cogs jump from 24T to 34T. I put a 14:28 on the bike but the lowest gear was not low enough and I could find nothing with more teeth on the largest cog. I bought a IRD Cyclone freewheel with more teeth on the largest cog and then found it's not indexed and wouldn't work right with an indexed shifter. Apparently it works with a friction shifter.

My only other option was to get a smaller chain ring, but mine was integral with the crank arm, so this meant buying a new crankset with an appropriate size chainring that could be swapped if I need to. Before I ordered it I calculated the gear inches so I pretty much knew what I wanted. The old chain ring was 44T and I now have 38T, and I have the perfect setup for my cruiser.

[alan dun]

Percy, thanks
Friction shifter, so hoping for the best.
Hope not to go the whole chain rings route !

[alan dun]

Percy,
Another thought...
if you can't use the cyclone 13/32, do you want to sell it ?

[Ugly]

Bankrupt Bike Parts list a 6speed 14-32 block, it's cheap so no idea how long it will last. They also list a couple of Megadrive blocks 6 speed with a monster jump to a 32 bottom, including a Shimano one.

[jimlews]

I've got two of the IRD six speed freewheels in use - both 13 to 32.
One has been reliable and trouble free.
The other feels as if it is about to fail at any moment, but just keeps on going (touch wood).
There are intermittently, cracking noises when I apply power or sometimes just when changing gear.
I've taken it apart several times and re-greased it. It is silent for a while afterwards, then the ominous noises restart.
The internal design is such that the two pawls are served by a common circlip type spring. I think that the spring is not strong enough for the job it's required to do, causing slow engagement of the pawls and sometimes the whole thing momentarily seizes solid.
The first time I took it apart, there was next to no lubrication inside and the mechanism has no seals to keep out the elements.
Not good for something costing £60+ . But there seemed to be very little alternative at the time.
My advice FWIW is to remove the bearing cover when new and plaster the interior with spray grease until it comes out the back.
That bankrupt bike one looks like a tremendous bargain in comparison.

[alan dun]

Jim
thanks for your notes.
I look forward with some trepidation to delivery of the new freewheel today.
Am guessing there is no way of telling by spinning it whether it's a good 'un or not...
clearly not possible until tested.
Does removal of the backing plate risk an ''oops there they go'' situation with the balls ?
good to hear from you.
thanks
A

[jimlews]

Hi Alan.
Access to the internal is from the front i.e. the side that faces out when mounted on a wheel.
The cover unscrews clockwise. There are two dimples or blind holes in it and it is quite easy
to get a screwdriver or a nail in one of these and tap the cover loose.
That exposes the circle of ball bearings, No need to disassemble any further.
Just smear grease over the balls, making sure none escape.
Then spray grease (aerosol) past the bearings into the internal.
On mine there were no seals, so it was possible to drip oil into the thing without removing the cover.
If doing it that way (with oil) repeat about once a month.
Good Luck.

[alan dun]

jim
top man
thanks
A