roubaixtuesday wrote: ↑9 Sep 2021, 4:28pm
I've probably missed something obvious here, but if the issue is the overhang prevents getting the light in and out, can't you just fit the bracket the other way up and take it off below rather than above?
I've had rear lamps with Cateye fittings make a bid for freedom when fitted on a loose mudguard. I wouldn't rely on an inverted clip to prevent that.
Not saying you're wrong, but my experience is the opposite - can quite hard to remove at all and never dislodged one, very reliable hold. Have used them for years commuting.
I should have included that... we also have one that is very hard to remove by hand.
Your overhead photo shows a hole through a forward extension of the bracket.
Careful placement on the mudguard aft of the overhang should allow unimpeded access.
Maybe.
Or...
What is the rack made of?
Should be possible to drill horizontally through the rear extension and bolt the bracket to the rear face of the rack.
I doubt it would weaken the rack much, if at all.
When I wanted to mount a second lamp on a rack mount I used a couple of cheap right angled brackets (simple steel right angle brackets with pre drilled/stamped screw holes) & a made a second right angle bend in them. Once the brackets were clamped between the first lamp bracket & the rack fitting I could then mount a second bracket with a vertical offset (so the second lamp didn't obscure the first) & a horizontal offset (so each lamp could be fitted or removed independently). Something similar would probably work to give clearance for fitting the light in the bracket.
Former member of the Cult of the Polystyrene Head Carbuncle.
Much depends on the type of Cateye light. I had a Rapid 3 in a similar position and the lense became detached, on a section of rough track. But I’ve had a Cateye Omni on the rear rack for ages and it’s been rock solid. Speaking of Cateye, they do a USB rechargeable version of the Rapid, that would fit on your bracket - though it’s out of stock currently.
You could either fit it to your bracket and then zip tie or bolt the bracket to the rack - if you put the bolts through the holes before you fit the light to the bracket. You should then be able to recharge it in situ. Or as Jim suggested, drill through the rear if the rack and fit the bracket there. I’ve done this on a Blackburn rack.
I actually bought the cat eye bracket you mentioned, but my rack (Bontrager) is stupidly designed and it won’t work using removable lights as was my intention also, as there isn’t enough clearance to get a light in and out of the slot, hence looking for a bolt on job.
My approach would be as others have mentioned and use a spacer. The Cateye bracket appears to have bolt holes with the usual spacing, as does the rack mounting plate. I would either use a solid block (e.g. PAR wood, possibly painted black or black square metal tubing, cut and capped at either end) drilled through to line up with the holes of the rack and the bracket and long bolts (screw? ) going all the way through - or alternatively, two long bolts and two long thick spacers (of the cylinder type). Then keep the light you have (or originally intended) and have the ability to remove/fit it with ease.
Disclaimer: Treat what I say with caution and if possible, wait for someone with more knowledge and experience to contribute.
Vetus Ossa wrote: ↑9 Sep 2021, 12:13pm
I actually bought the cat eye bracket you mentioned, but my rack (Bontrager) is stupidly designed and it won’t work using removable lights as was my intention also, as there isn’t enough clearance to get a light in and out of the slot, hence looking for a bolt on job.
My approach would be as others have mentioned and use a spacer. The Cateye bracket appears to have bolt holes with the usual spacing, as does the rack mounting plate. I would either use a solid block (e.g. PAR wood, possibly painted black or black square metal tubing, cut and capped at either end) drilled through to line up with the holes of the rack and the bracket and long bolts (screw? ) going all the way through - or alternatively, two long bolts and two long thick spacers (of the cylinder type). Then keep the light you have (or originally intended) and have the ability to remove/fit it with ease.
Mine too, but I was waiting for the owner's next thoughts. : - )
I'd mock it up in solid wood and then either machine it in aluminium or have it 3D printed. And it would probably be roughly H shaped to provide some bracing between the two sleeves.
Sorry if anyone has already mentioned it, it's late and I haven't had a chance to read them all yet, but think this may be what I am looking for...https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1278250226?iid=393486066194
How about I bolt this to the bracket with the light mounted and charge in situ?
Vetus Ossa wrote: ↑10 Sep 2021, 12:49am
Sorry if anyone has already mentioned it, it's late and I haven't had a chance to read them all yet, but think this may be what I am looking for...https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1278250226?iid=393486066194
How about I bolt this to the bracket with the light mounted and charge in situ?
It's not obvious but I think that's just a standard micro 3 light (I have one they're excellent), in its packaging.
Vetus Ossa wrote: ↑10 Sep 2021, 12:49am
Sorry if anyone has already mentioned it, it's late and I haven't had a chance to read them all yet, but think this may be what I am looking for...https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1278250226?iid=393486066194
How about I bolt this to the bracket with the light mounted and charge in situ?
It's not obvious but I think that's just a standard micro 3 light (I have one they're excellent), in its packaging.
You'd still need a bracket to fix it to the rack.
Yes, but I think that the idea is that it wouldn't have to move upwards to be removed from the bracket because it wouldn't be removed.
Vetus Ossa wrote: ↑10 Sep 2021, 12:49am
Sorry if anyone has already mentioned it, it's late and I haven't had a chance to read them all yet, but think this may be what I am looking for...https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1278250226?iid=393486066194
How about I bolt this to the bracket with the light mounted and charge in situ?
It's not obvious but I think that's just a standard micro 3 light (I have one they're excellent), in its packaging.
You'd still need a bracket to fix it to the rack.
Yes, but I think that the idea is that it wouldn't have to move upwards to be removed from the bracket because it wouldn't be removed.
Jonathan
Ah, OK, so fit with one of these and just leave in situ?
Thanks to all that took the trouble to answer.
I will buy that light I think, and fit it to the bracket with 5m bolts with nuts on the back of the bracket.
I think the USB port is on the end of the light so charging shouldn’t be a problem when fitted.
Not likely to get nicked either is it.
Vetus Ossa wrote: ↑10 Sep 2021, 7:50am
Thanks to all that took the trouble to answer.
I will buy that light I think, and fit it to the bracket with 5m bolts with nuts on the back of the bracket.
I think the USB port is on the end of the light so charging shouldn’t be a problem when fitted.
Not likely to get nicked either is it.
Just had a quick look at mine, there'll be no problem charging in situ in the bracket.
Busch and Muller make a variety of battery powered led rear lights that fit directly to a rear rack plate with a pair of bolts either 50mm or 80mm apart.
) going all the way through - or alternatively, two long bolts and two long thick spacers (of the cylinder type). Then keep the light you have (or originally intended) and have the ability to remove/fit it with ease.
