pedal spanner required

vangelis · Post by **vangelis** » 8 Jun 2007, 3:31pm

Does anyone know where I can purchase a pedal spanner with a long handle with enough leverage to remove pedals?

Mick

ianr1950 · Post by **ianr1950** » 8 Jun 2007, 3:53pm

Wiggle do one for about £5.00 I think. Isn't a normal 15mm spanner long enough though?

vangelis · Post by **vangelis** » 8 Jun 2007, 4:06pm

I have a spanner simular to the one Wiggle sells and it is not long enough to remove the pedals.

How long is the spanner that Wiggle sells because it does not say?

Mick

ianr1950 · Post by **ianr1950** » 8 Jun 2007, 7:31pm

Your pedals must be on really tight then.
I just use a normal 15mm spanner or a long allen key.
Don't need to have any longer than that.

archy sturmer · Post by **archy sturmer** » 8 Jun 2007, 7:34pm

I've always used just an an ordinary spanner - 6 or 7 ins long I'd guess - and whacked it with a hammer (taking care, after the first time, to remind myelf which way pedals undo!).
One whack has usually been enough to shift even pedals that have been in place for years.
When refitting, it's probably worth putting a bit of anti-seize grease on the threads.
Archey

diapason · Post by **diapason** » 8 Jun 2007, 7:35pm

Are you unscrewing them in the right direction? I've use brute force on occasion: an ordinary 15mm spanner clouted hard with a rubber mallet :oops:

N

Brian · Post by **Brian** » 8 Jun 2007, 8:12pm

At the risk of stating the obvious, don’t forget that the non chain side unscrews clockwise.

horizon · Post by **horizon** » 8 Jun 2007, 8:35pm

vangelis: apart from the obvious (opposite screw), pedals do seize. Normally an ordinary length spanner (5" say) is quite adequate. If not, then they might well be seized. I once used a 4' length (yes, 4') of thick steel tubing over an 8" spanner. One spanner broke. It required one person to hold the bike steady, one person to hold the spanner on the pedal and one person to turn the lever. But it did work.

reohn2 · Post by **reohn2** » 8 Jun 2007, 9:31pm

Vangelis
Put bike with front wheel against a wall(with bike square on to the wall)get an assistant to hold bike(upright)for RIGHT side put pedal crank at two o'clock position put spanner on pedal spindle as near to ten o'clock as possible,get assistant to press down with force on the saddle (not sat on bike)whack spanner with hammer ( try a lump hammer but don't miss :shock:

)repeat on LEFT side with cranks at ten o'clock and spanner at two o'clock.

Sorry if you've tried this but I don't know how for you're on with it.

thirdcrank · Post by **thirdcrank** » 8 Jun 2007, 9:42pm

You can, of course, get pretty well unlimited leverage by slipping a length of tube over your spanner. On a similar sort of topic (removing a freewheel) on here recently, somebody mentioned their LBS had a length of scaffold painted white marked 'Park Tool'. Unfortunately, if it is really tight, the spanner may fail before it comes loose.

The problem with using that sort of force when the crank is still on the bike is that you risk damaging the bike.

If you have the crank off, and depending on the position of the spindle faces in relation to the crank, try applying the spanner so there is an acute angle between the crank and spanner in the direction you want to turn. Then, squeezing them together is just a bit easier than anything else.
Otherwise, depending on the type of pedal, try dismantling it and holding the flats of the pedal in an engineer's vice and then use a pipe over the crank to get the leverage.

Although some stuff such as Shimano pedals in Shimano cranks always seems easy to undo, others, especially Campag in TA cranks is bordering on the impossible.

Even S B is less helpful than usual - he seems to suggest it is sometimes inevitable as is the consequential damage:

http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-pedals.html

horizon · Post by **horizon** » 8 Jun 2007, 11:03pm

thirdcrank: I think taking the crank off is an excellent idea - it's an extra hassle but it saves the bike. I found using the steel pipe good because I was able to apply slow pressure. The pipe was of course essential but the real breakthrough was acknowledging that you needed more than one person for the job.

gerry36 · Post by **gerry36** » 9 Jun 2007, 8:11am

When refitting the pedals it's worth using a washer if there isn't one already there. Stops the steel pedal from gouging into the alumium crank, and makes removal easier. Pedal washers are thinner than a washer that size would usually be.

jimcrosskell · Post by **jimcrosskell** » 9 Jun 2007, 9:00am

Although never had to resort to it, while pondering the problem....I normall unscrew pedals using the allen keyway on the end of the pedal axle. If you used a cheap (or Expensive) impact driver, just the allen key and the 1/2" square drive. fitted a teebar or rachet drive from your socket set, and hey presto, lods of fun and stripped knuckles all round!

bigdave · Post by **bigdave** » 10 Jun 2007, 7:53pm

Halfords do an excellent pedal spanner which is about 1 foot in length, it costs about £6 and does the job no problem !

NUKe · Post by **NUKe** » 11 Jun 2007, 10:52pm

Vangelis

as people as mentioned
1 check your unscrewing the right way right hand pedal unscrews clock wise
2. WD40 can help squirt both sides leave for a while try again.
3. pouring boiling water over the crank is often enough to crack the corrosion. Use the differential expansion of steel and ally
4. A sharp tap with a mallet usually helps.
5. When reassembling Coppaslip the threads.

probably worthremoving the cranks as well if the pedals sieze this can also be the case for the cranks

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