Bike set up with flat bars

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ron2old
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Bike set up with flat bars

Post by ron2old »

I've had a brainwave (and I was'nt even in the bath). Maybe if I put flat bars on my Arkose 3 it would feel different (better). But does anyone know if all the advice I've been given about bike set up and frame sizing has a different formula/approach when fitting for a flat bar bike. It's worth a try (still need to lower those gears though).
andrewjoseph
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by andrewjoseph »

you'll need new shifters and mechs. depending on the bar ( straight or swept back, riser etc.) it may give the same reach as being on the tops. i.e. hands on straight part of drop bars. it would bring reach closer than being on hoods.
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Mark1978
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by Mark1978 »

Well flats will be the same reach as riding on the tops with drop bars. How does that go?

As said it's going to be an expensive job considering you need to change the shifters, mechs, perhaps brakes etc etc
sirmy
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by sirmy »

You'll probably need a longer stem to achieve a reach similar to what you have now as frames designed for flat bars tend to have longer top tubes to compensate for not having the forward curve of drop bars. If you were going the other way you'd probably have difficulty find a stem short enough and riding on the tops would put you in a more or less upright position
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by Vorpal »

Sheldon Brown has some good informaiton about changing handlebars... http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html
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reohn2
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by reohn2 »

ron2old wrote:I've had a brainwave (and I was'nt even in the bath)...........

I usually let the,not inconsiderable dust,settle before taking things to the next level whenever I have a brain wave.
I have in the past been swamped by a Tsunami which has left a trail of devastation and meant I've had to rebuild as was before :wink: .
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NATURAL ANKLING
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by NATURAL ANKLING »

Hi,
No I am not awake..............go back to sleep :)
Can you explain why you want to change you handlebar or possitions of hands :?:
Another for the experts, why do people insist on pointing bars to the sky :?: :?
Or is it that on sloping bars up as you go forward you minimise the changing lower back angle :?:
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bikercolin
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by bikercolin »

I have flat bars and bar ends on a Spec Roubaix running Sram Apex really good flat bar shifters with this set up 50/34 chain set and up to a 32 cassette. Reach wise a good couple of inches les than riding on the hoods assuming the same stem. My previous road bike had flats too and ran an Ultegra group with shimano r440 shifters also very sweet to use and reliable. In my experience the bar ends are key to comfort I have found the Ergo or Spec bar ends very comfortable with straight bars.I would however prepare yourself for a bit of road rider snobbery when using flat bars.
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NATURAL ANKLING
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by NATURAL ANKLING »

Hi,
I dont use flat bars without long extensions, similar set up to butterflies, what it gives you is top bar and top hood positions / reach, without the drops and easier controls, but you have to change the levers and shifters, back to a Hybrid is easier............did I just say that :lol:
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ron2old
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by ron2old »

I can understand how you have to change your shifters and brake levers but why do I have to change my mech's? Wouldn't my 105 rear mech work just the same with either thumb shifters or drop bar shifters? If so then all I need to buy is some thumb shifters some brake levers some flat bars oh and some bar ends.
ron2old
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by ron2old »

So are hybrid type bike frames designed specifically to be used with flat bars or are they just road bikes with flat bars put on them.
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531colin
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by 531colin »

ron2old wrote:I can understand how you have to change your shifters and brake levers but why do I have to change my mech's? Wouldn't my 105 rear mech work just the same with either thumb shifters or drop bar shifters? If so then all I need to buy is some thumb shifters some brake levers some flat bars oh and some bar ends.

For rear Shimano cable pull is all the same except 10 speed MTB, they just made that different to be awkward.
Front road and mountain are different, then theres "flat bar road" which I can't get my head round, although sensibly it would be the same pull as road....wouldn't it?.....none of this matters if you go for non-index.
Mark1978
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by Mark1978 »

ron2old wrote:I can understand how you have to change your shifters and brake levers but why do I have to change my mech's? Wouldn't my 105 rear mech work just the same with either thumb shifters or drop bar shifters? If so then all I need to buy is some thumb shifters some brake levers some flat bars oh and some bar ends.


I've read that the cable pull is different with flat bar shifters.
Brucey
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by Brucey »

Mark1978 wrote:
ron2old wrote:I can understand how you have to change your shifters and brake levers but why do I have to change my mech's? Wouldn't my 105 rear mech work just the same with either thumb shifters or drop bar shifters? If so then all I need to buy is some thumb shifters some brake levers some flat bars oh and some bar ends.


I've read that the cable pull is different with flat bar shifters.


well, in shimano ( MTB ten speed apart), it isn't, not for rear mechs.

Indexed front shifting is a different matter, but you are not doing that with bar ends anyway.

Bar end shifters or thumb shifters (with non-indexed front shifting) will work fine.

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horizon
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Re: Bike set up with flat bars

Post by horizon »

ron2old: I've just found this quote from the Van Nicholas website:

Every rider is different and every rider uses different criteria in establishing what constitutes comfort, fit and performance in a bike. For many riders, experimentation with saddle height, stem length, stem rise, and the fore/aft saddle shift are all variables that can help to make riding more comfortable and more enjoyable. Working together, the variables of a proper fit result in optimal transfer of power, an aerodynamic ride, good bike handling and pain-free cycling. Finding someone's ideal position on a bicycle is a very individual process.

I think it says it all. Personally I use three devices to get the fit right: a very short stem, a stem raiser and a VK adaptor to get the saddle back and forth. Once I have the dimensions that I want, I look for the bike that fits or keep the new bit on the bike. You have to keep playing with it to get it right and keep riding to adapt yourself to the bike - you will meet half way eventually. My guess is that you want a much more upright position position on the bike. I reckon you can still achieve this (short stem + stem raiser or adjustable stem) on this bike but it may not have been the best bike to start with.
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