Eucalyptus Firewood

[francovendee]

Well done MickF. It always gives me a nice feeling when I've found a way to do a difficult job without injuring myself or damaging the machinery.
Only need splitting now.

[Mick F]

Splitting?
It needs lengths cut off first, and as they are very heavy and the trunk is getting thicker the more I cut off, I'm going to have to cut a less long length each time.

The splitter will take 12" max, but 11" of the log is just about all I can carry. Today, I'll have to go through where the big branch was, so it's going to be tough and knotty.

From the end to the branch is about 10". Maybe have to cut at angles to get it done which will make it difficult to fit in the splitter, let alone split it.

After that area, the trunk isn't effected by knots or offshoots, so it'll be easy, and the more I do, the lighter the whole thing will be.

My main problem is that the pieces have to manually carried by your's truly up a 45deg slope as well as climbing over a collapsed wire fence. Strong footware and thick gloves are a must ........... as well as strong arms and back.

Off out tackling it later this morning.

[francovendee]

Speaking as someone who's had a weak back for 50 years the thought of your slope and heavy logs I already feel the pain!
Take care with your back, once damaged they are always a weakness.
The old saying that wood fires keep you warm more than once is definitely true in your case.

[Mick F]

Yes, I'm strong and resourceful too ................ but today, I'm beaten by the equipment, not by my (lack of) strength.

The Husqvarna chainsaw has an 18" bar, and it's not long enough. The engine is powerful enough but the bar won't reach far enough through. The job is going to cost more in petrol and effort than its worth. 24" bar would do it, or just about, I reckon.

What I'm going to do later today, is go to the local garden machinery place and see if I can buy a 24" bar and a longer chain. Other than that, it's renting a bigger machine which is hardly cost-effective for a "nice to have" supply of wood. I may as well buy cut logs than spend money to cut them myself!

Even if I never cut any more Eucalyptus, I have plenty other trees to fell and the Husqvarna as it is now will do the job admirably.

[francovendee]

You'd mentioned the trunk being 18" dia further long the trunk. Is it possible to cut from both sides and meet in the middle? Seems too obvious so I must be missing something?

[Jdsk]

Speaking as someone who's had a weak back for 50 years the thought of your slope and heavy logs I already feel the pain!
Take care with your back, once damaged they are always a weakness.

Wise words.

I suggest turning to Archimedes for help... lots of types of levers and winches are available. From the description of this job how about a come-along?

Jonathan

[Mick F]

You'd mentioned the trunk being 18" dia further long the trunk. Is it possible to cut from both sides and meet in the middle? Seems too obvious so I must be missing something?

It's access that's the problem.
Easier from the lower side, but with the branch in the trunk, I have to come in from the upper side. The knot where the trunk splits is an absolute devil to get at due the engine-end getting in the way. I longer bar would help there, as well as at the other end of the log where it's thicker.

Off out soon to get advice regarding a longer bar.
Talking of bar length, there seems to be two ways of expressing it.
Overall length, or just the length of the bar from where it exits the engine end.
Therefore, I'll be taking the one I have with me to show them.

I suggest turning to Archimedes for help... lots of types of levers and winches are available. From the description of this job how about a come-along?

Yes, already been chatted about. Mate of mine has a boat winch he could lend me, though he was suggesting pulling the whole log up the slope!

It would be a good idea if I cut (say) 3ft lengths and hoist them out so I can get at them better. Would still have the problem of them being heavy on the ground of course, so they would need lifting.

As it is, providing I can get the damned thing cut into pieces I can carry, it's a simpler system. The trunk is nicely suspended a few inches off the ground and I'll be able to move the concrete block as and when required. Maybe the boat winch would be good for the last few feet of log.

[rjb]

Id'd have given up a long time ago and invested in a koala.

[Jdsk]

Id'd have given up a long time ago and invested in a koala.

Doesn't that need the title of a popular book as a sign-off line?

; - )

Jonathan

[Mick F]

Called in at Callington Garden Machinery this afternoon.
https://www.callingtongardenmachinery.com
The "main man" who knows stuff, wasn't there.

He'll be back in the morning, so it's a re-visit required.

[pwa]

You can cut through trunks wider than the length of the bar by cutting from both ends so that cuts meet up. You can even fell trees that way, using long established cut patterns. But in this situation that might mean cutting with yourself on the downslope some of the time and, to say the least, that doesn't feel safe. If that moves suddenly you don't want to be downslope.

If it were me I would be considering just hiring the services of a professional tree cutting team for a couple of hours, now that you have done some of the prep work for them. Unless I were really looking forward to the challenge.

[Mick F]

Yes, we could employ someone.
No point I reckon.
The log isn't in the way, it can be left where it is and forgotten about.

Yes, I'm aware that I can come in from both directions, but due to the log's position, that ain't easy.

The chain on my saw is kapput. It's lost a tooth, and although I've spent two or three sharpening sessions on it, each tooth has a chamfer on it on the outsides. They're sharp enough, but it's little more than useless. Tried a few lengths of 2" diameter oak, and it had difficulties.

I damaged it when cutting the log before I lifted it and damaged the chain on the stones.

Therefore, if my Husqvarna 555 can't have a longer bar, I'll just buy a new chain. If it can, I'll buy it and a new chain obviously.

[francovendee]

Just a thought. Have you sharpened the chain a lot and now the depth guide (not sure what it's called but the piece of the chain that goes between the cutting teeth) is too tall in relation to the cutting edge of the tooth?
I fell foul of this and almost gave up on the chain but about three strokes with the file to reduce the height and it cut like new.
A friend always has his chains sharpened by a shop and told me his chainsaw was broken as it wouldn't cut anymore.
When I looked at it this was the reason. The shop only looked at the sharpness of the teeth and didn't factor in the tooth actually wasn't actually contacting the wood.
Apologies up front if you are already aware of this.

[pwa]

Just a thought. Have you sharpened the chain a lot and now the depth guide (not sure what it's called but the piece of the chain that goes between the cutting teeth) is too tall in relation to the cutting edge of the tooth?
I fell foul of this and almost gave up on the chain but about three strokes with the file to reduce the height and it cut like new.
A friend always has his chains sharpened by a shop and told me his chainsaw was broken as it wouldn't cut anymore.
When I looked at it this was the reason. The shop only looked at the sharpness of the teeth and didn't factor in the tooth actually wasn't actually contacting the wood.
Apologies up front if you are already aware of this.

Most people use a little metal guide to enable quick and accurate filing of that little sticky up bit. But Mick probably uses one anyway. Sharpening is a simple little bit of metalwork, but having to do it X number of times is tedious and time consuming.

[PDQ Mobile]

A quick way to reduce depth gauges on the chain is with a small angle grinder. Just a light touch on each.
I always sharpen freehand, with the bar in a vice.
Chains last longer than with grinder tools, IMV.

A essential of wooding is a chainsaw maintained to a high standard throughout.
Such a machine is not only much more efficient but also safer.

A relatively small saw is a very versatile tool.
I use the same smallish Husky 242xp for everything.

Here's one I made earlier!
Hard Welsh 200 year old Oak.
Popeye Rules! (and a small hand winch)

Freehand, cut in situ to significantly reduce weight and gain flat sides for rolling and maneuvering.
Over 17 feet long.
It too, was in quite a difficult place but seemed a shame to log it!
I have an old building where it can one day find a resting place.