rjb wrote:I use a scouter pad on my 9 year old Beko to remove the mould. Once it's blackened the rubber seal it almost impossible to get the stain out. The only time I use a hot wash is when I use the 90 degree wash to shrink my jeans.
Don’t people sit in the bath with their new Levis anymore
Not at 90 degrees,
At the last count:- Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X3, Raleigh 20 stowaway X2, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840
We do a very hot wash with the washer empty occasionally as you have to do that before washing waterproofs (to get any powder that is lurking in nooks and crannies out of the machine first). That seems to keep the machine/seals/drawers nice and clean. We do also leave the door cracked a tiny bit open between washes, though.
If you live in a hard water area like East Anglia, I suspect no amount of hot washing would stop the machine furring up. As far as I can recall, the main cleaning function for a hot wash used to be to flush detergent from the pipes from the drawer, but the drawer rarely holds anything these days except for the cleaning products and special treatments, as the washing liquids now go in with the clothes.
Paulatic wrote:Fixing machines for other people and resale I’ve witnessed some horrendous pipes blocked and stinking , so maybe choice of product has some bearing as some here haven’t seen this. Here’s what Which have to say https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/washing ... ture-guide
I'd expect broken machines to be more ill-treated than average - wouldn't you?
And as for Which's article, that seems to contain more unreferenced handwaving and I'm pretty sure Bosch say to use a cleaning product rather than the monthly hot wash that Which claims. Sadly, Which doesn't seem as credible/reliable as it used to be when I used to read my father-in-law's magazines after he'd finished them.
MJR, mostly pedalling 3-speed roadsters. KL+West Norfolk BUG incl social easy rides http://www.klwnbug.co.uk All the above is CC-By-SA and no other implied copyright license to Cycle magazine.
We found only 2 things stop furring up in this hard water area. Calgon tablets in every wash (very expensive) or a water softener (expensive to install but even after paying for the salt saves a fortune on not having to replace the shower every few years, and lots of saving on soap, shower gel, cleaning products, and, of course, calgon tablets).
rjb wrote:I use a scouter pad on my 9 year old Beko to remove the mould. Once it's blackened the rubber seal it almost impossible to get the stain out. The only time I use a hot wash is when I use the 90 degree wash to shrink my jeans.
Don’t people sit in the bath with their new Levis anymore
I heard through the grapevine that is old hat these days as the jeans come shrunk to fit
rjb wrote:I use a scouter pad on my 9 year old Beko to remove the mould. Once it's blackened the rubber seal it almost impossible to get the stain out. The only time I use a hot wash is when I use the 90 degree wash to shrink my jeans.
Don’t people sit in the bath with their new Levis anymore
I heard through the grapevine that is old hat these days as the jeans come shrunk to fit
I wonder if we have a division between those who have hard water and those who have soft water. I have always lived in places with soft water. I only do 30 degree washes and use supermarket own brand non-bio washing powder. Other than leaving the door open between washes, and cleaning the filter once in a blue moon, I do nothing to maintain the washer. But it always looks and smells clean, I've never had even a hint of mould on the door seal, and my washers last for ages. About 15 years for the last one, and the current one is looking good after about 8 years. Is the difference in experience down to the water?
I live in a soft water area and only have experience of hard water is having to descale my mothers coffee machine in Darlington. Vinegar used to do it. I was wondering this morning if conditioner creates a problem as it’s something we don’t use. PWA has, I believe, hit the nail on the head ......he only uses powder.....it’s liquid ones which certainly seem to create gunge.
Edit: Probably more import is the humidity of the home/ room where appliance is. There’s some very damp homes in this part of the country. Thankfully I’m not one of them as our humidity is 40% just now.
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I live in a very soft water area too. Picture upthread of our 9 year old machine. Mrs Rjb always uses the 30 degree wash with powder non bio detergent and no softener as it brings me out in a rash as does the bio detergent. Never had a problem with the pipes clogging and this is only the 3rd machine we have had in our 41 years together, so they average about 15 years life. Probably longer now the kids are gone. So ive been down and dirty to show mine, wheres yours.
At the last count:- Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X3, Raleigh 20 stowaway X2, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840
Paulatic wrote:I was wondering this morning if conditioner creates a problem as it’s something we don’t use. PWA has, I believe, hit the nail on the head ......he only uses powder.....it’s liquid ones which certainly seem to create gunge.
I've had no problems with either liquid or powder detergent. I live in a medium water area. I do lob in a spoonful of the (supermarket own brand) descaler into most washes and leave the door ajar. Vast majority of washes @ 30/40
The contents of this post, unless otherwise stated, are opinions of the author and may actually be complete codswallop
Paulatic wrote:I was wondering this morning if conditioner creates a problem as it’s something we don’t use. PWA has, I believe, hit the nail on the head ......he only uses powder.....it’s liquid ones which certainly seem to create gunge.
Edit: Probably more import is the humidity of the home/ room where appliance is. There’s some very damp homes in this part of the country. Thankfully I’m not one of them as our humidity is 40% just now.
+1 for conditioner having an effect and leave door open to air.
P.S. My jeans have shrunk over the Christmas period. P.P.S Sat in bath to shrink my first pair and also had them tapered for the "drain pipe" look. Looked the bee knees with my winkle pickers. (1962)
Bleach is not good for rubber door seals. You can try it, but don't use much, as it will deteriorate the rubber. It may also discolour it, but white, instead of black.
We don't leave our washing machine door open. Small animals or children can go in and be trapped. I know somone whose kitten got into a washing machine and suffocated when another pet shut the door.
I just wipe down the seals before I shut the door on an empty machine. We haven't had any problems. If it starts to smell, I run a cleaning cycle with vinegar.
“In some ways, it is easier to be a dissident, for then one is without responsibility.” ― Nelson Mandela, Long Walk to Freedom
Vorpal wrote:Bleach is not good for rubber door seals. You can try it, but don't use much, as it will deteriorate the rubber. It may also discolour it, but white, instead of black.
We don't leave our washing machine door open. Small animals or children can go in and be trapped. I know somone whose kitten got into a washing machine and suffocated when another pet shut the door.
I just wipe down the seals before I shut the door on an empty machine. We haven't had any problems. If it starts to smell, I run a cleaning cycle with vinegar.
No kittens or dogs in this house, so the door stays ajar. The tortoise is unlikely to be able to get in.
