Another Car Topic - Scenic Brake Servo Replace !

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
Scenic MK1 2003 1.9 dCI.
Brake pedal squeaking.
Air Escaping in foot well

Renault don't need to stock Renault parts after 12 years..................
Did not get far with online parts factors but did find a replacement good oem brand from Lithuania................3 weeks.
A lot of renault parts like other car makers are standard parts from main suppliers of pads shoes pumps cam belts radiator etc.

I tracked down same part (number) as was fitted, a used and a gamble servo, I know................... but did a swap.
Tested it for leaks as much as I could before fitting.
I read a post on the net about £750 for a renault dealer...........but they no longer stock............., cars not worth that much but to use and to us it is.

Wasn't looking forward to doing the job.
Its hidden in the engine bulkhead and the vague haynes manual said it could be engine compartment or foot well, extraction.
Engine compartment could mean intake manifold as well as disconnecting the master brake cylinder.
Footwell extraction is very awkward on the body if you've done that before

5.5 - 6 hour job..............double that..................

After two days I felt like Id done 10 rounds with joe Bugner
In bed neck ached, elbow sore and bruised, ribs hurt, hip hurt, fingers are grated, constant head ache on day one, if your on BP meds you know that well if you have to put head down near the floor working.
Clutch - brake - throttle pedals have to come off so you can extract the brake plate, servo is behind that.

Second day at 21.30 not having eaten other than a coffee and biscuits in 7.5 hours I went to pick up er and two hundred yards along the carriage way power loss and jet engine sounds

Turbo intercooler pipe blown off.
Fixed with no tools, fortunately I had a torch but no tools, but ended with a cheap 99p auto retracting tape rule end for a screw driver.
I text er to say broken down, but I will be on time because I fixed it in minutes...........................two hundred yards later...........wizzzzeeeee gurgle..............this time even after wiping out the mating gooey surfaces and refitting jubilee clip, I decided to phone and suggest taxi.
Limped home after wrecking second quality tape rule (yeh two in car ).
Job for tomorrow.

I only removed the clip on turbo pipe to give better access to bleeding hydraulic clutch......................anyone know how to bleed them with a plastic nipple which is part of the slave cyclinder but does not move and has no nut faces

You live and learn.

On the verge of buying a new car / as well as a road motorcycle to relax on........................................anyday soon.

[Jdsk]

I only removed the clip on turbo pipe to give better access to bleeding hydraulic clutch......................anyone know how to bleed them with a plastic nipple which is part of the slave cyclinder but does not move and has no nut faces

I'm not sure what you're describing, but the answer might be "with a vacuum system" or "with the cylinder off the car and at the correct orientation".

Jonathan

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,

I only removed the clip on turbo pipe to give better access to bleeding hydraulic clutch......................anyone know how to bleed them with a plastic nipple which is part of the slave cyclinder but does not move and has no nut faces

I'm not sure what you're describing, but the answer might be "with a vacuum system" or "with the cylinder off the car and at the correct orientation".

Jonathan

That would be logical and there are some documented attempts at that on the net.
But only a few minutes of searching and a YouTube vid from Australia Renault renders the correct procedure.......very simple too.
On the clutch fluid line parts, there are metal wire clips where you would normally fine threaded nutted unions on brake lines.
Very simple and a lot easier than normal bleeding of brakes.
I will wait to see if anyone else spent time on similar system before resorting to the net.........even GP's do that dont they

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
What's not made clear is the fact that there is no mechanism for undoing the bleed nipple, that's because the bleed nipple is moulded as part of the slave cylinder.
You place a bleeding tube on the nipple, then you pull out a metal clip and pull the hard line which is the metal fluid line, out partway.
There are two O-rings around the hard-line union end.
pulling the union in and out of the slave cylinder opens the port to the bleed nipple.
If you didn't know how the thing works then I suppose eventually you would just pull the hard line out and try and get fluid to come out along with some air.
Simple system like this which is incredibly simple once you know how it works to bleed, can only be used on a non-critical item you certainly can use this on your breaks.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nXXXA6LOscU

There are a few variations of the methods on the net but basically it doesn't take very long to get air out of the system if you had to disturb the fluid line anywhere.