Patrickpioneer wrote:G0RBI, G4SDZ, G3YQW and myself GW0VMR, if we carry on like this we can have a net on here (HI OB)
take care
Pat
QRZ?
And G8HTW on the side, QTH Staffs.
73,
Phil
Patrickpioneer wrote:G0RBI, G4SDZ, G3YQW and myself GW0VMR, if we carry on like this we can have a net on here (HI OB)
take care
Pat
QRZ?
Cyril Haearn wrote:Stories, fairy tales, legends for children and adults, in two languages
Like to spin them out, upgrade them, dream up new endings
Cyril Haearn wrote:I like climbing towers and looking down on my peers
Already 'conquered' the highest church tower in the world
Cugel wrote:Cyril Haearn wrote:I like climbing towers and looking down on my peers
Already 'conquered' the highest church tower in the world
I have noticed you looking down on your peers; but also them staring back up, sometimes with a frown of annoyance as they view your high-held nose (and everything else up there).
Cugel
Bonefishblues wrote:I'm restoring a rather lovely wooden canoe at the moment, expecting water-based fun and japes over the next few weeks once painted.
BTW Cugel et al (wood-bothers in particular), what's the best way to strip back the varnished but deteriorated ash, and then restore it to an ashen colour*? I already know that I'd like to protect with a specialist soaking oil once done. This one: https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/deks-olje-d1/
*There's always the hard way (the one I typically select) and the rather less hard way IME, hence the Q!
I have on some other varnished items used a combination of linseed oil & white spirit. Steel wool, or even scrubbing cloths, like you use for doing the dishes (if it can withstand the mixture) can be enough to work. I apply the mixture, and scrub. With care, it only affects the finish, and not the wood (except to allow some the oil to soak in). It largely restores the looks, and can be used for most things, as if they were varnished new. I've redone several wood floors using that approach, and some were in use for years afterward, and still looked good. I would think it would work for a canoe, though it might need a little more maintenance than a fully revarnished surface. You can varnish over it, after it's left for a few days to dry. If you like, you can try it in a small area, and see how it goes.Bonefishblues wrote:Thanks. The varnish is confined to the fiddly stuff up top, the planking I'm well along with in terms of smoothing the old paint and providing a key for new primer and marine paint. Any chemical means of removal is out for obvious reasons when you see the link below. I think that I am coming to the view that 95% will be rubbing down with paper/flexible blocks, but any and all ideas are welcomed.