togglechaintour bikes

[MikewsMITH2]

the fairly stout tap wedges them in, the nut stops them coming loose.

Well I always thought this but the ones I got from the LBS were soft and kept developing play until there was hardly any head visible. In the end I changed one side and gave the other a good bash and its been OK since. Except that I was then told I'd probably damaged me balls Ouch!

The ones I have for Holly are pre-filed. I only have one pair as I couldn't afford any spares Hopefully with a NOS TDC axle and original Nicklin chainset, then it'll work better than the cheap Indian copies I got from Cycles of Yesteryear.

Going to give it a bash (literally) tonight. I know that they have to point in opposite directions, but I thought there was a specific way they should go in. Is that correct? Nut up or down on the downstroke. I can't remember which

[GrahamNR17]

There's no right way or wrong way, just convention. In the olden days, you usually found the nut was towards the front when the crank was vertical with the pedal at the top. But convention is just convention, you don't have to follow it.

...but if you don't, you may be sent home from the TCT for being unconventional

[hubgearfreak]

you may be sent home from the TCT for being unconventional

you really do talk rubbish

[GrahamNR17]

you may be sent home from the TCT for being unconventional

you really do talk rubbish

Are you two revolting?

[MikewsMITH2]

Are you two revolting?

You mean like that pea green raleigh Twenty or as in the natives are.....

[GrahamNR17]

Are you two revolting?

You mean like that pea green raleigh Twenty or as in the natives are.....

I think Tim might be a bit of both

[Greybeard]

There's no right way or wrong way, just convention. In the olden days, you usually found the nut was towards the front when the crank was vertical with the pedal at the top.

Thinking about it, it would make sense for the nut to be under the crank as you press down as it would then avoid getting your turn-ups snagged on it
Of course the best way to avoid any such problems with a cotterpin is to fit a square taper BB
Which reminds me, I really must get around to developing my patent self-extracting cotters some time soon.

There also seems to be an undercurrent of 'greenism' developing here, which is a bit rich coming from those who ride around on things (albeit very pretty things) with wheels the size of a skateboard's.

Steve (who isn't really paranoid, and knows that folk aren't going all out to have go at him - but still can't help worrying about why they're not )

[hubgearfreak]

they're just jealous that you've pipped them to the post with the best colour, ever.

[Greybeard]

Thanks for the crumb of comfort, Tim

Don't forget to switch to BBC 4 tonight - it's cycling progs all the way through from 8.30 - including Edwardian stuff
Steve

[GrahamNR17]

Steve (who isn't really paranoid, and knows that folk aren't going all out to have go at him - but still can't help worrying about why they're not )

Cos we already have you worrying about it. It's like with kids, mental torture was so much longer-lasting than a slap

Graham, wot never slapped his mentally unstable kids cos it's crool

[GrahamNR17]

The James is finished, the Clubman is still away getting new clothes, and I have no bicycle to tinker with

Does anyone have a steel frame and forks they want to part with? Must be 21" and take 26 x 1 & 3/8" (or 26 x 1 & 1/4") wheels. If Raleigh, then mid-80s (I'm being STRICT with my "no more 26tpi" policy). Alternatively, a 19" frame that takes 700c wheels. But must be steel. No MTB frames please, this is gonna be a road bike and I don't want chunky pipework.

Graham (wots plottin' a noo bike wots gonna be brown an' orange)

[MikewsMITH2]

There's this:



I've got too many bikes and I'm thinking of stripping it of all the campag parts and re-doing my Severn Valley in 60's trim (as it should be). It's a 19 1/2" frame designed for 26 x 1 1/4" but will take 700C (I've ridden it on 700C). Its now on 650B. Paint looks good buts it Halfords car paint and is quite soft, so could do with powder coat or enammelling.

Nice Nervex pro lugs ,but the tubing is Vikings own so nothing special. Fairly relaxed angles as it was for waht is says on the frame = light touring. Built in 1960

[GrahamNR17]

19 1/2" is a bit too small for me really. That said, it's a VERY pretty frame Dare I ask what a pretty frame like that might fetch?

[fossil]

Thanks for the crumb of comfort, Tim

Don't forget to switch to BBC 4 tonight - it's cycling progs all the way through from 8.30 - including Edwardian stuff
Steve

what a Fantastic cycling documentary
a well written and presented program documenting the different era's of cycling and how they influenced the next

I also liked the way he showed he was pesrsonally paying for the parts for his bike

i will watch it again as i have "videoed it"

on dvd

[MikewsMITH2]

Dare I ask what a pretty frame like that might fetch?

To you Graham nothing...