Cycling UK Forum

GrahamNR17 wrote:Would you get them wheels in a normal person sized frame?

we both have done.

stumpies may struggle though

hubgearfreak wrote:

GrahamNR17 wrote:Would you get them wheels in a normal person sized frame?

we both have done.

stumpies may struggle though

Funny man

Anyway, I have Emily here now, and she is 24" frame with 28" wheels, and I fit on it And pretty soon she'll be joined by Sydney, who is the same size and who I might also fit

Graham, wots 'opin, really 'opin

hubgearfreak wrote:you're chuffed then GB? even if it's a bit of a girlie colour?

did the build present you with any bothers?

Well chuffed, Tim. I can even live with the colour for now. Thanks for educating me in the pleasures of 9-speed hubs/big wheels
Building it was rather uneventful and straightforward. The only issue was the minor damage to the cable adjuster of the hub by the courier, but you've already seen the pretty, machined brass remedy - which is also an improvement of the original design. The wheels built up like a dream and the chain line was spot on at the first assembly.
Now, pass me something difficult to do

Graham - the Peace 9r frame by GT came in S, M and L sizes as far as I know (this one's an L) so you may well be able to find a smaller sized one if you really fancy joining the WW sub-group

Steve

Just stripped a frame to bear metal. It's smothered in rust pitting. What's the recommended paint that will make the best job of minimising the visible pitting? Anything thick and gloopy?

Build up primer /undercoat ideally car stuff from a paint suppliers (Jawel) in many layers and rub down between coats. Also purchase a hardener that can be used with primer and top coat so that the paint does not chip.
Failing that is is amazing just how much powder coating can cover up.

Cool, so 90 percent time then I'll get cracking...

In the meantime, is there an easy way to straighten a handlebar stem? It's from the 20s lady's Raleigh Popular, with stem/bars combined. The stem is bent slightly causing the bars to be slightly lower on one side

Several years ago a friend in the Bristol CTC was straightening some handlebars using the slots in a roadside drain cover. When questioned what he was up to by passing schoolboys he claimed to have dropped his bike down the drain and that he was attempting to pull it out. You may care to give this method a try Graham!

Just stripped a frame to bear metal. It's smothered in rust pitting. What's the recommended paint that will make the best job of minimising the visible pitting? Anything thick and gloopy?

Its complicated unless you want the rust to come through again. What I did with one of the seat stays on your Hosteller was to treat the pitting several times with an acid preparation that converts the rust. Its called "milkstone remover" and is available cheap from agricultural suppliers. Or you can buy a weaker version at a hundred times the price called "Jenolite" which car restorers use. After several treatments the rust will be killed. Then you need a primer. The best one readily available is "Finegans Number 1 Rust Treatment" you can get it from Halfords. Its a nice dark pink so should suit Emily. Then grey primer, plastic filler, rubbing down - whatever it takes. to get it nice and smooth.

The powder coat or spray paint won't cover it up. It is very visible on the chain stay of my roadster after a media blast and professional paint job.

or you can leave it as "patina"

Mike wot used to restore rusty old cars

Oh and there is hammerite smooth which sprays on to bare rusty metal and does what it says on the tin. Available in black.

Building it was rather uneventful and straightforward

How did you sort the brakes out Steve?

MikewsMITH2 wrote:Oh and there is hammerite smooth which sprays on to bare rusty metal and does what it says on the tin. Available in black.

That stuff is S**t. The most dreadful paint I've ever used.

MikewsMITH2 wrote:

Just stripped a frame to bear metal. It's smothered in rust pitting. What's the recommended paint that will make the best job of minimising the visible pitting? Anything thick and gloopy?

Its complicated unless you want the rust to come through again. What I did with one of the seat stays on your Hosteller was to treat the pitting several times with an acid preparation that converts the rust. Its called "milkstone remover" and is available cheap from agricultural suppliers. Or you can buy a weaker version at a hundred times the price called "Jenolite" which car restorers use. After several treatments the rust will be killed. Then you need a primer. The best one readily available is "Finegans Number 1 Rust Treatment" you can get it from Halfords. Its a nice dark pink so should suit Emily. Then grey primer, plastic filler, rubbing down - whatever it takes. to get it nice and smooth.

The powder coat or spray paint won't cover it up. It is very visible on the chain stay of my roadster after a media blast and professional paint job.

or you can leave it as "patina"

Mike wot used to restore rusty old cars

I have a tin of the Finegans. It's goes on very thick and fills in imperfections nicely, as I remember. I imagine it's why I bought it all those years ago. Will pop in the farm supplies today for the milkstone remover, thanks for the tip on that one

Just finished some test pieces (old mudguards) and I'm really liking the finish of Japlac very much.

steve browne wrote:Several years ago a friend in the Bristol CTC was straightening some handlebars using the slots in a roadside drain cover. When questioned what he was up to by passing schoolboys he claimed to have dropped his bike down the drain and that he was attempting to pull it out. You may care to give this method a try Graham!

The more I think about it, the more I know I have to try it

So looking on eBay, it would appear that the F-frame Moulton is no longer the discerning TCTers choice. I was considering bringing mine in June, but I wouldn't want to appear passé

As I'll only be along as day tripper on the Saturday, what time are procedings due to commence and end? I'm thinking I might let the train take the strain if possible.

I won't be bringing a Moulton, but I will be bringing two 16" wheels.