Cycling in The Indian Himalayas.

[JackRabbitSlims]

Hi all.

I have my flights booked in to and out of Delhi for a 3 month cycle trip in the Indian Himalayas.
Yes, I have Laura Stone's excellent book and she has also been very helpful via email with a few specifics.
I've spent 18 months travelling through India as a backpacker, but this will be my first trip with the Touring Bike.
Will have 4 Panniers, Bar Bag and carrying full camping kit and camp kitchen.
Plan is to spend minimal time in Delhi, build the bike, get supplies and then use the Train to Travel Delhi - Kalka and then the Toy Train from Kalka up to Shimla.
Exact route is still a work in progress.

I have a few questions which I'm hoping some of you on these boards can help me out with:-

1) I arrive in to Delhi early AM. Is it best to arrange a Taxi capable of carrying a boxed Bike before I arrive, or haggle, fight, yell and scream once I have my luggage and have left the arrivals Hall? I never use pre-paid or pre arranged services, but flights from NZ are long haul and I wont be in the mood for Indian Negotiations on arrival - I've probably just answered my own question Perhaps a Hotel with an Airport Pickup...which leads to me next question....
2) Any recommendations for a Bike Friendly Hotel or Guesthouse in the Paharganj / Connaught Place area? If my bike box survives the trip in Ok condition, I'll be looking to re-use it for the return trip. Would also like to leave some left luggage in storage. Mid range....not a 5 star and not a flea ridden backpacker flop house....been there, done that, wont be back.
3) Train Travel with the Bike - I have done a little research on this topic and I think I have most of it covered. Show up with plenty of time, have my own Train Ticket sorted (i'll do that online this week) locate the Freight Office and arrange for the bike to be carried on the same train, or the next available one. Have a means to cover the Bike and supervise stowage. Remove all panniers and bags from the Bike. I'll have a large duffle to carry my Panniers etc in when on the Train.
Anything else that you feel like sharing would be much appreciated.
4) I began a thread a while back on MultiFuel Stoves and had some excellent replies - I'm still undecided on which stove to use or whether a MultiFuel will be necessary? Does anyone know if I can buy Gas Canisters in either Delhi or Shimla?? Some folks say yes, but cannot give names or places to buy from. If I can get gas, I'll skip the MultiFuel and go with a Pocket Rocket or something similar?
5) Would you recommend "Threadlocker on all Bolts? I rode with a guy last summer who had ridden in India and said the road conditions in places were so bad that Nuts and Bolts would vibrate loose! Any other hints and tips for the rough roads....perhaps related to Panniers being more secure on the racks (Ortlieb on Tubus Racks)
6) Any other Hints, Tips, Tricks, Suggestions, Advice or local knowledge would be greatly appreciated

Thanks if you can help me out.
Cheers,
Steve.

[Eman Resu]

Just regarding roads in the Himalayas and need for thread lock you could message Maunil Vora via the Tripoto forum messenger. He has done some rides in them hills (mainly supported I think):
https://www.tripoto.com/trip/thousand-k ... rip-935666

By the way snow (हिम = Him) abode (आलय = alya): in India its best to pronounce this as Himalya.

You've right idea about Delhi - get out as fast you can. Good luck with your trip and let a tailwind accompany you. As for me I'm sticking with the smaller hills in South India later this year.

[simonhill]

I've ridden bad roads in India, but they are no worse than bad roads anywhere. I didn't take any extra precautions and all was fine. Regular checks on your bike should suffice. ( I bet some here would favour a full daily strip down, but I'm too lazy for anything like that.)

On bumpy roads I do find my panniers bounce a bit on the rack - plastic hook against metal rack. I've never done it but often thought of some sort of shock insulation between hooks and rack. A cut up bit of old inner tube may work.

Having ridden a fair bit of your NZ unpaved roads 20 odd years ago, the Indian ones seemed quite good.

Enjoy.

[JackRabbitSlims]

Just regarding roads in the Himalayas and need for thread lock you could message Maunil Vora via the Tripoto forum messenger. He has done some rides in them hills (mainly supported I think):
https://www.tripoto.com/trip/thousand-k ... rip-935666

By the way snow (हिम = Him) abode (आलय = alya): in India its best to pronounce this as Himalya.

You've right idea about Delhi - get out as fast you can. Good luck with your trip and let a tailwind accompany you. As for me I'm sticking with the smaller hills in South India later this year.

Thank you Eman.

I think I'll go ahead with the Thread lock anyways....just to be safe.
Thanks for the correction re the pronunciation and written word

OK, yes I didn't really mind Delhi as a backpacker but IME, large Cities and Bike Touring do not mix well....especially in the developing world!

[JackRabbitSlims]

I've ridden bad roads in India, but they are no worse than bad roads anywhere. I didn't take any extra precautions and all was fine. Regular checks on your bike should suffice. ( I bet some here would favour a full daily strip down, but I'm too lazy for anything like that.)

On bumpy roads I do find my panniers bounce a bit on the rack - plastic hook against metal rack. I've never done it but often thought of some sort of shock insulation between hooks and rack. A cut up bit of old inner tube may work.

Having ridden a fair bit of your NZ unpaved roads 20 odd years ago, the Indian ones seemed quite good.

Enjoy.

Hi Simon (this is MeatIsMurder from LP)

Thanks for the reply:)

Yes, I'm quite good at keeping my bike well maintained and in good condition while touring, so I'll be keeping a close eye on most things whilst on the rough roads.
Great idea re the inner tube between the plastic hook on the steel Rack.....I have this incredible tape that sticks to almost anything very well....came from a Equestrian Supplies shop....never seen or used anything quite like it!! I'll try some of that to begin with!

Any help with the Gas Canister situation??

The roads in NZ have improved in the last 20 years mate.....I only wish the driving would improve also!!

Hope all is well and good with you!
Cheers,
Steve.

[nick12]

Have you thought about buying a kerosene stove locally?
I bought one years ago when trekking in the Himalayas the brass primus style which takes apart. Cheap not over heavy. You will get one in Delhi . Fuel will be available most places even the villages so don't need to carry more than 2 litres. Just a thought.

[hufty]

Indian kerosene stove not overly heavy? You'll be saying they don't leak next! Anyway last time I was in India there was a drive to get people off kerosene because of the immolation risk so don't know how that went up north. Petrol is always going to be available, it's got to be relatively clean for people's cars, so if you're not using gas, go petrol.

Do tourists still stay around Connaught Place? Prepaid taxi from the airport to Paharganj, job done. Can't think why you wouldn't use the prepayment desk in the airport..? Don't worry about prebooking bikes there'll be a taxi driver willing to put them on the roof, boxed or not.

I agree that it's a good idea to get out of Delhi but on the way back I wouldn't worry if you had a few days to kill there - the metro has opened up the city so it's a lot easier to explore and it's a modern city now.

If you have trouble with the trains, try the state bus services eg HPSRTC. Gruelling but will get you there, and bookable in advance on line.

[JackRabbitSlims]

Have you thought about buying a kerosene stove locally?
I bought one years ago when trekking in the Himalayas the brass primus style which takes apart. Cheap not over heavy. You will get one in Delhi . Fuel will be available most places even the villages so don't need to carry more than 2 litres. Just a thought.

Thanks for the the reply Nick.

I quite like Stoves and have been looking at either a Pocket Rocket 2 or a Multi Fuel Stove to add to my collection - not just for this trip, but for other longer tours I have in the Pipeline.

Cheers,
Steve.

[JackRabbitSlims]

Indian kerosene stove not overly heavy? You'll be saying they don't leak next! Anyway last time I was in India there was a drive to get people off kerosene because of the immolation risk so don't know how that went up north. Petrol is always going to be available, it's got to be relatively clean for people's cars, so if you're not using gas, go petrol.

Do tourists still stay around Connaught Place? Prepaid taxi from the airport to Paharganj, job done. Can't think why you wouldn't use the prepayment desk in the airport..? Don't worry about prebooking bikes there'll be a taxi driver willing to put them on the roof, boxed or not.

I agree that it's a good idea to get out of Delhi but on the way back I wouldn't worry if you had a few days to kill there - the metro has opened up the city so it's a lot easier to explore and it's a modern city now.

If you have trouble with the trains, try the state bus services eg HPSRTC. Gruelling but will get you there, and bookable in advance on line.

Thanks for the reply hufty.

Yes, Kerosene and Petrol is available from what I've been told and read - been advised to take coffee filters to put through before use as well
If I can get Gas Canister, I'd prefer a smaller cooking option as i'm trying to go as lightweight as I can....within reason.

Yes, Tourists still stay around Connaught Place and Paharganj ofc....good location and close to the Train Station?? I thought it was OK and I saw lots of Tourists there the last few times.

Yes, the Bus is always the fall back option. I like traveling on the Indian Trains

Thanks agin for your input - I appreciate it.

Cheers,
Steve.

[nick12]

Weight is going to ba a major factor for sure you have some serious climbs up to leh. Do you plan on returning to manali or Srinagar maybe?
When available you can always make a fire and save your fuel too.

[JackRabbitSlims]

Weight is going to ba a major factor for sure you have some serious climbs up to leh. Do you plan on returning to manali or Srinagar maybe?
When available you can always make a fire and save your fuel too.

Route is still a work in progress.....
Loosely: - Shimla, Leh, Kargil, Srinagar in that sort of direction. Not leaving NZ until late May, so I have some up my sleeve to plan in more detail....having said that, i'm very open to just making it up as i go along.

Yes, some serious climbs and the altitude to respect as well!! I quite like climbing - I've just come off a big tour of Western Europe, North Africa, Northern Laos and North Thailand. 7 months 13500kms, so bike fitness is OK and some serious climbing elevations in North Laos and Thailand (MHS Loop) which I enjoyed....in a weird sort of way

I'm also a bit of Pyro and enjoy making Fire....not sure I can be bothered faffing around with that after a long day on the bike. But always a fallback option if need be.

Thanks again for your replies.
Cheers,
Steve.

[nick12]

Sounds good .a tough ride and yes the altitude will make it hard and slow.have a great trip.route sounds good.

[nirakaro]

This is a nice little video to put you in the mood...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPyYGw9Jn6w
I think I'd go with the threadlock - one less thing to worry about.

[JackRabbitSlims]

This is a nice little video to put you in the mood...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPyYGw9Jn6w
I think I'd go with the threadlock - one less thing to worry about.

Thanks for the link

I haven't seen that particular clip, but have seen a few of that road.......along with many photos - Thats the kinda stuff i"m after TBH, looking forward to it.

Cheers,
Steve.

[nirakaro]

My recollection from travelling by bus around Lahaul/Spiti/Kinnaur a few years back is that the main roads were slightly, but not much, better than that clip. It was a tad disconcerting that nearly every day there'd be a small headline somewhere in the local newspaper saying something like '30 Die as Bus Plunges into Ravine'. I'm sure a bike's the safest way to travel around there.