Recommendations for Western France + Pyrenees crossing

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smith4188
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Recommendations for Western France + Pyrenees crossing

Post by smith4188 »

Towards the end of April this year I'm cycling from the Isle of Man (where my folks live) to the Costa del Sol (where I live). For now, I'm just researching the French part of the trip. I'll arrive at Cherbourg and I'm planning to cross the Pyrenees on the road due south of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. So, two questions, if you'd be so kind:

1) Do you know any unmissable places (villages and small towns rather than cities) on my route (basically anywhere west of the E9 motorway)?

2) Has anyone any experience of that border crossing? Is it OK?

Thanks in advance,
Steven
DougieB
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Post by DougieB »

do you mean the crossing used by the camino de santiago? I walked that a couple of years ago. good tarmac all the way up the french side, and then forest trail on the spanish side, followed by tarmac again.

It'd be fine for cycling, I think. You may find there are lots of walkers on the camino though, and accommodation can be a problem. On the way up the french side there's a small off-road detour (maybe 500 metres in all) that was a route used by Napoleon's troops, shifting heavy weapons. Interesting to see just what soldiers can get over with their guns.

On the spanish side in Roncesvalles it is probably going to be really busy (though you can gauge that by the amount of walkers you pass), and there are further places to stay not may kms onwards. That village is a usual first days target for walkers from St Jean Pied de Port.

near to the camino you may be told to wait for a bed, until after a certain time to give all the 'pilgrims' a chance.

I remember a decent, and cheap, hotel next to the train station in Biarritz, if you are coming down the coast.

I've also stayed in the parador in Sos del Rey Católico, just south east of Pamplona. It was reasonably expensive (I think €120 for two), but worth it. Look online for Parador and Spain, and you'll see them.

cheers,
Doug
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smith4188
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Post by smith4188 »

Thanks, Doug.

I'm going to be camping with occasional B&B, and so I thought I'd get a few 10s of km from the border before looking for somewhere to stay. Hopefully it'll be a pilgrim-free zone.

Steven
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Helen
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Recommendations for western France and Pyrenees crossing

Post by Helen »

We started the Camino at St Jean Pied de Port 3 years ago in July. We made it to Pamplona camp site by 5pm, timing our stay to visit the Fiesta de San Fermin and the bullrunning.

There was hardly any traffic on the road crossing the Pyrenees, and easier than expected. So no need to go off-road on the camino with the walkers.

A top site to visit in SW France is cyclists’ chapel Notre Dames des Cyclistes just outside Labastide d’Armagnac. The small town itself is a gem, and I’ve visited the chapel twice. The guardian told me Diana Rigg lives nearby, which was interesting, me being an Avengers fan!

http://www.labastide-darmagnac.net/Notr ... listes.htm
peter236uk
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Post by peter236uk »

I am not sure what part of Western France you will be going through but the Gers area is really nice Towns like Condom yes thats correct' Lectoure, Florence' and Vic Fezensac'
Some Great festivals as well in that area of the the really nice Night markets.
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smith4188
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Post by smith4188 »

Being incredibly puerile, I already had Condom on my hit list. I'll add the others you mentioned. Thanks for that.

And thanks Helen for the chapel details. I've had to write Labastide d'Armagnac on my map - it ain't there.

Steven
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Helen
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Recommendations for Western France

Post by Helen »

Four suggestions for picking places to visit:
1 Rough Guide Top 10 of the region
2 "Most Beautiful Villages in France" website
3 Eccentric France by Piers Letcher
4 Brevet de Cyclotourisme National

http://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/
“Most beautiful villages in France”

Eccentric France by Piers Letcher
Quirky places to visit!

Image


http://cbandiera.free.fr/bcn/
Brevet de Cyclotourisme National
(French equivalent of our British Cycle Quest)
Not always immediately obvious WHY it is a selected place. Sometimes it is also one of the “most beautiful villages”, sometimes a historic place (eg birthplace of Jeanne d’Arc) or an outstanding geographical feature etc etc.

Here are the places in SW France:

32 Gers
Bassoues
Cazaubon
Gimont
Larresingle
Lectoure
Simorre

33 Gironde
Bazas
Blaye
Pyla-sur-Mer (Europe's only sand dune!)
St-Émilion
Ste-Croix-du-Mont
Vertheuil

40 Landes
Hagetmau
Hossegor
Labastide d'Armagnac
Mimizan
Sabres
Sorde l'Abbaye
richard.b
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Post by richard.b »

Steve.
We cycled from St Malo to Santiago in September in 2007.
I would say St Malo is a better starting point than Cherbourg avoiding the slog down the peninsular. The St Malo ferry also arrives at 7.30 am very convenient for a full day in the saddle.
Whichever route you take you need to plan for the major river crossings on the Loire and Gironde etc.
There is a good cycle path from St Malo to Rennes and a superb ride in the pine forests in the Bordeaux region south of Royan towards Cap Ferret.
Regarding the route on from St Jean I would strongly advise you to use the main road up to Roncesvalles rather than the pilgrims path which I walked last May.
We had very little traffic using the road route but it is extremely hard work. Another factor to consider is the weather. Be pleasantly surprised if it doesnt rain. We got soaked and very cold so be warned. We gave up just after reaching the top having only achieved 20 miles for the day. Luckily we passed through Roncesvalles and stopped in Burguete the next village and found a reasonably cheap hostal to thaw out.
The ride on to Pamplona was superb the next day in bright sunshine. It certainly made up for the previous day and thoroughly recommended.
Good Luck.
Richard.
pq
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Post by pq »

I crossed from Spain to France over the col de Ispeguy in March. At that time the other crossings were either too busy, tunnels, or snowed up. It was very quiet, very scenic and a pretty easy climb.

As for essentials, I don't think there are any. That part of France is so great for cycling, any route you pick on wiggly roads passing through a town now and again will be superb. I'd just avoid the flat area around Bordeaux - dull in my opinion. I prefer to head a bit further east.
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