Hybrids for touring

[Rollinscorp]

I am new to serious cycling and am taking on what I consider quite a challenge. Venice to Monaco in approx. 10 days and something afterwards but not sure what. I have ordered the Cube Cross 2009 from Chain Reaction but it isn't due to arrive for another week. I have been reconsidering my choice of bike, thinking I should maybe buy a touring bike, however i am unsure how much touring I intend to do after this trip.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=30591

I guess I will be mainly on road, carrying all my gear so probably front and rear panniers. I asked Chain Reaction about changing to one of their road bike bikes but they gave various reasons my altenatives weren't suitable and said the Cube Cross would be perfectly adequate for the job, partly due to the remote lock-out on the front suspension forks. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? It'd be great to hear. I also decided dropped handle bars could be a good idea to change riding position, I guess I can always buy these seperate, trying not to spend too much though as I still don't have a decent tent!

Thanks
Sam

[travelling]

Personally I am suprised they thought the bike was the best tourer for the money

for that amount your better touring choice would have been a dawes galaxy, the thorn Sherpa, ridgeback panama etc

Some good reference points are the forums or I often look at bikes that have done trips rather than a dealers reccomendations on places like http://www.pbase.com/canyonlands/fullyloaded

Many toureres like dawes, thorn etc are of such a quality that they last some time and if you notice from pb base of those that are true tourers very few are of the mountain bike type and even less are with suspension.

Personally if I was in that deal I would get out of it

[Richard]

The best bike is the bike you're going to be most comfortable on. That seems a bit obvious but it's easily overlooked as its easy to be influenced by what you think you ought to have. You're better off on a £50 bike that fits like a glove than a £1500 bespoke tourer that makes your hands and neck sore.

If the Cube Cross is the one you're comfortable on then its a good buy. If you have doubts, which I think you have, then keep your money in your pocket until you're sure.

What tends to happen is that when you go into a bike shop they'll tell you the best bike THEY STOCK that will meet your needs. This isn't necessarily the best bike for the job. A Ford dealer won't tell you that a Vauxhall is a better choice and nor do many bike shops unless they're truely independent.

Depending on where you live I would do a few things:

1) contact your local CTC group and see if you can meet with any of them to try out their bikes. Beware, some CTC members (but none on this forum ) have the touch of trainspotter about them so don't take everything they tell you as gospel. However it will give you a look at what they're riding and how they've kitted them out.

2) Visit Paul Hewitt in Leyland, Lancs. He produces some of the best touring bikes available. However, his big advantage is that he'll put you on the fitting jig and come up with the right dimensions for you. It's about £50 I think but absolutely money well spent.

3) Consider Thorn at St. John Street Cycles - people either love 'em or hate 'em but they do make an interesting range of touring bikes that you can try before you buy.

4) Speak to/visit Spa Cycles. They're touring specialists with good advice and great customer service.



My personal views are (enters trainspotter mode):

mudguards are a good idea. Are there fittings for them?
Front suspension is heavy and of little value on tarmac.
Racks - rear rack is required. Front rack too if you're carrying a large load. Eyelets should be available front and rear.
Does the bike have the load carrying capacity you're putting on it?
Tyres - 28mm width minimum, probably 32mm max. Will these fit with the mudguards on?
Bars - are you comfortable and can reach the brakes ok?
Can a barbag be fitted? Where will you keep your camera/wallet/immediate access items?
Brakes - discs are good stoppers but can eat pads. There is also some debate which says that discs run the risk of warping over long descents where they're on for long periods. Maybe V brakes are a better compromise.
Pedals - clipless/toeclips or flat What system do you want? (personally I like Time ATACs but Shimano SPD is good too).
Steel frames are arguably more comfortable to ride as they transmit less road vibration. A good steel frame will last a lifetime.
Lighting - what system will you use and where will it go?


The Cube Cross will get you between Venice and Monaco - no doubt about it. I don't think it's the best touring bike "out the box" as it would need upgrading to fit my needs. If I were putting money into a bike it would probably go with a Hewitt as I know it will fit and be comfortable. However, what's good for me isn't necessarily good for you and I'll repeat what I said at the beginning - find something that, when loaded for your tour, you want to ride all day and that will be the right bike for you.

In case you're wondering, I ride a recumbent (but then I was a trainspotter when I was a kid).

[travelling]

Richards info is probably more informative than mine and I wholly agree a £50 comfy bike may suit you far better than £1000 all singing all dancing

I had a thorn sherpa and loved the bike but was tremendously lucky in that it fitted from the bat. I would try and decide if this bike is for just this ride or for longer..If longer then I would as Richard suggests I would go to someone like Thorn/ Paul Hewitt and get a custom bike from a quality manufacturer.

Pound for pound and for long term ownership I feel this is the best value but thats just me But I change my bikes often as do some so this would not be the best option if that was your intention

If you can take the time I would cancel the bike, then travel to a few of these custom fit makers and also try some of what seems to be the most popular tourers and see how they work for you.

Ultimately the choice and money is yours and only yours.

[hamster]

if you notice from pb base of those that are true tourers very few are of the mountain bike type and even less are with suspension.

That's a bit of a sweeping generalisation. If you are riding outside of Europe and especially on unsealed roads in remote areas then MTB frames can be very suitable.
But these tend to be steel-framed bikes very similar to early 1990's MTBs.
Certainly front suspension is unpopular as it doesn't work well with front panniers and is an extra thing to go wrong anyway.

[drjones]

I also decided dropped handle bars could be a good idea to change riding position, I guess I can always buy these seperate

You will probably need a shorter top-tube length if you want to run drops because otherwise you'll end up needing a REALLY short stem due to reach issues that will mess up the handling a bit. You'll also need new shifters and gear levers. In short, if you're going to buy this bike then stick with the bars it comes with (and possibly adjust stem length depending on how the one specced suits you)

But in my opinion, on your budget, you should get a more touring orientated bike that's already built; there are plenty within your budget: http://www.adventure-cycling-guide.co.uk/bike4.htm

Anyway, does that frame you linked to even have rack attachment holes? And if you're going to be mainly on-road,what exactly is the point in having front shocks?

[juice]

When I started cycling again after many years I got a hybrid, a Giant CRS, while it was ok for knocking about, when I started more "loaded" touring it was no good, with spokes breaking and a very inefficient riding position, for both comfort and power. In the end I bought a second touring specific "Galaxy" type bike which I love.
The original became a "pub" bike until it was nicked.

[travelling]

if you notice from pb base of those that are true tourers very few are of the mountain bike type and even less are with suspension.

That's a bit of a sweeping generalisation. If you are riding outside of Europe and especially on unsealed roads in remote areas then MTB frames can be very suitable.
But these tend to be steel-framed bikes very similar to early 1990's MTBs.
Certainly front suspension is unpopular as it doesn't work well with front panniers and is an extra thing to go wrong anyway.

Not so sweeping after all then hamster

[Rollinscorp]

Thanks for your advice, much more than I expected! I went for the suspension forks as most of the cycling I do in the UK will be offroad. However I just looked at Spa Cycles (I'm from Harrogate but not currently living there), I'm suprised to see how much cheaper they are than Evans cycles (atleast £100), for this reason I think I'll cancel the Cube Cross and spend a bit less on a specialised tourer. Meaning when I get back from my trip (starting 20th June) I might have money left to sort my old mountain bike out for cycling round the UK.

Thanks again
Sam

[Domestique]

I realise I have come to this thread a bit late, but the handlebar issue could be solved using Butterfly bars. I have never used them myself but a lot of people seem to get along just fine with them, also means you could use the mtb/atb/hybrid brake levers and shifters already fitted to your bike.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/showimage.asp?image=images/products/images/products/15572modolo_xl.jpg&title=Modolo+Yuma+Traveller+Multi+Position+Hybrid+Bars+%2D+Silver&image2=http://www.sjscycles.com/xxlimages/15572modolo_xxl.jpg

[drjones]

Straight bars offer a single uncomfortable position.

Butterfly bars offer many.

[simonhill]

"Straight bars offer a single uncomfortable position. " - which is why most people who tour with them fit bar ends to give multiple hand and arm positions. As said, butterfly bars are also a good option, but a bit more cumbersome for travelling than bar ends.

To the orig poster - what sort of old mtb do you have? It may be that you could 'convert' this into a reasonable tourer. If it is one of the old steel frame type, with no (or poss only front) suspension then it could be ideal. You will probably need: new tyres; mudguards; rear rack; poss extension to raise handlebars; poss saddle. Plenty of us do all our touring on this type of bike.

New bike prices have shot up in the last year so this could be good alternative before you lash out a thousand or so on a bespoke tourer.

Re luggage - if I were you I would aim for 2 rear panniers, rather than assumning you will go with 4. Many people camp/tour like this. Adding front panniers adds greatly to complexity (racks, weight, 4 rather than 2 bags to carry when off bike, etc). After all, its only a ten day pedal.

[MartinBrice]

i like 4 panniers - the two at the front carry only a bit of the weight but help to spread it all out, and you can fill them with food when you've been to the supermarket. most weight is on the back rack though - bigger panniers and the tent/sleeping mat.

[Rollinscorp]

I'm not sure what type of frame the old mtb is that I have, I bought it from a more experienced cyclist friend of mine for 20 pounds. Its a Saracen with front suspension. I've bought a Dawes Galaxy 2008 new for £460, and all the panniers, racks etc for under £700.

Its a bit late now to fix up my old mountain bike, it would definately need new tyres, I think it needs new wheels too, or atleast the eyelets for the valves need filing as the inner tubes split at the valve almost every time I ride it. Also the gears are grip shift, and the front ones don't really behave themselves, which is something else I'd have to fix if I needed a comfortable ride.

This is more a project for when I get back, by which time my bike maintainance skills shall most likely have greatly improved! I do wish I posted on this forum a couple of weeks earlier!
I have bought front pannier racks now which I know are an easy fit, I'll have to do a test ride to see whether I need them or not.

Thanks
Sam (original poster)

[wilbo]

Where did you find a new 08 Galaxy for that price?