After much deliberation I have decided to spend my annual leave cycling up the Uists to Stornoway. I hope you dont mind me asking but as a club cyclist and complete touring novice I would appreciate some feedback/advice regarding this trip. Perhaps from some who have been there and done it before.
The real concern for me is how long will it realisticly take for me to get from Barra to Stornoway. Also is it possible to reside in hostels all the way up?
Many thanks for any advice you may be able to impart
Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
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ultraburner
- Posts: 69
- Joined: 20 Feb 2010, 4:27pm
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
Hello there
I rode the wrong way (into the headwinds!) a couple of years ago and it was one of the best trips of my life. I went back to the Hebrides last year (not so much cycling this time) and am trying to work out how to get there again soon. One of the most amazing places on earth.
I wrote about my experiences here.
http://marcusjb.wordpress.com/2008/08/2 ... 851-miles/
There are the Gatliff Trust hostels dotted up the islands - but I know there are several new bunkhouses in the islands since I cycled up there.
If you are able to do it - I HIGHLY recommend booking a trip to St. Kilda - it's expensive, the weather might not allow you to get there, but it's the most incredible place.
Hope that helps a little
Marcus
I rode the wrong way (into the headwinds!) a couple of years ago and it was one of the best trips of my life. I went back to the Hebrides last year (not so much cycling this time) and am trying to work out how to get there again soon. One of the most amazing places on earth.
I wrote about my experiences here.
http://marcusjb.wordpress.com/2008/08/2 ... 851-miles/
There are the Gatliff Trust hostels dotted up the islands - but I know there are several new bunkhouses in the islands since I cycled up there.
If you are able to do it - I HIGHLY recommend booking a trip to St. Kilda - it's expensive, the weather might not allow you to get there, but it's the most incredible place.
Hope that helps a little
Marcus
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
How long do you have? What sort of mileage are you comfortable with? It is possible to get from one end to the other reasonably quickly but personally I think it is worth taking it slowly in order to enjoy the beauty and remoteness. The majority of the Uists are flat but the wind can make it challenging. The weather has been particularly poor lately and ferries have occasionally not been able to sail because of the wind. Generally it is better to go south to north as you are proposing but there is no guarantee that the wind won't be blowing the other way.
The Gatliff Trust hostels are great, Laxdale Bunkhouse and Heb hostel in Stornoway are also good.
It is a good idea to stock up with food on a Saturday when in Harris and Lewis as open shops are thin on the ground.
Are you proposing a circular tour? If not, have you thought about transport at both ends? There is a bike bus which runs from Ullapool to Inverness which is useful for connecting with trains (http://www.timdearmancoaches.co.uk/).
The Gatliff Trust hostels are great, Laxdale Bunkhouse and Heb hostel in Stornoway are also good.
It is a good idea to stock up with food on a Saturday when in Harris and Lewis as open shops are thin on the ground.
Are you proposing a circular tour? If not, have you thought about transport at both ends? There is a bike bus which runs from Ullapool to Inverness which is useful for connecting with trains (http://www.timdearmancoaches.co.uk/).
A bike does more miles to the banana than a Porsche.
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ultraburner
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Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
marcusjb
Many thanks for your response. I am enjoying your blog lots of good stuff there.
Many thanks for your response. I am enjoying your blog lots of good stuff there.
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ultraburner
- Posts: 69
- Joined: 20 Feb 2010, 4:27pm
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
bogmyrtle wrote:How long do you have? What sort of mileage are you comfortable with? It is possible to get from one end to the other reasonably quickly but personally I think it is worth taking it slowly in order to enjoy the beauty and remoteness. The majority of the Uists are flat but the wind can make it challenging. The weather has been particularly poor lately and ferries have occasionally not been able to sail because of the wind. Generally it is better to go south to north as you are proposing but there is no guarantee that the wind won't be blowing the other way.
The Gatliff Trust hostels are great, Laxdale Bunkhouse and Heb hostel in Stornoway are also good.
It is a good idea to stock up with food on a Saturday when in Harris and Lewis as open shops are thin on the ground.
Are you proposing a circular tour? If not, have you thought about transport at both ends? There is a bike bus which runs from Ullapool to Inverness which is useful for connecting with trains (http://www.timdearmancoaches.co.uk/).
bogmyrtle, I have around 6 days to play with. Unfortunately my annual leave is booked for the last week in September otherwise I would have rather gone sooner.
I am no stranger to the bike. I am happy with 75 miles a day, more at a push. I plan to get the train to Oban from Glasgow so its all about the Islands I just dont really know where to start or how to link everything up.
I understand what your saying regarding taking some time to enjoy the scenery. I hope to do just that and not just sprint up the Isles! Again, I appreciate your points regarding the weather but Im hoping for the best! Cheers for the pointers for accommodation, as I said earlier I am a total touring novice so any advice is very gratefully received. I plan to stay in a hostel at Ullapool before cycling to Inverness for the train back to Glasgow.
Tahnks for the
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
Is that 6 days in total for the whole trip? If so, it will take a full day to get from Glasgow to Castlebay and another full day to get from Ullapool to Glasgow. You need to look at where you can get accommodation in order to establish how many miles you will do on the remaining four days. You also need to factor in ferry times between Barra & South Uist and Berneray & Leverburgh.
If you get an Island hopscoth number 8 ticket at the start, this gives you all the tickets for your journey
The bike bus stops at the end of August but I think they may still take an odd bike on the ordinary bus if requested.
I meant to say to stock up with food on Saturday as shops are generally closed on Sunday. The Indian restaurant in Stornoway is open on Sunday.
The independent hostel at Leverburgh gets lots of recommendations. I've never stayed there because I like Berneray hostel.
When returning from the Butt of Lewis to Stornoway, I prefer to use the more remote Pentland road rather than the A857.
If you get an Island hopscoth number 8 ticket at the start, this gives you all the tickets for your journey
The bike bus stops at the end of August but I think they may still take an odd bike on the ordinary bus if requested.
I meant to say to stock up with food on Saturday as shops are generally closed on Sunday. The Indian restaurant in Stornoway is open on Sunday.
The independent hostel at Leverburgh gets lots of recommendations. I've never stayed there because I like Berneray hostel.
When returning from the Butt of Lewis to Stornoway, I prefer to use the more remote Pentland road rather than the A857.
A bike does more miles to the banana than a Porsche.
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
Hi
The ferry to Barra from Oban leaves mid afternoon and arrives in Barra in the evening. You cannot leave Barra until the following day taking the first or second ferry. There is an option of an early ferry to Lochboisdale from oban it gets you cycling a day earlier if you can travel up on Friday From Barra you could get to Stornoway in 2 days but its better to take 3 or 4.
Logistics can be difficult es[pecially getting back but I would think accommodation at least would be ok at that time of year but if you are using Hotels or B & Bs you would still be better to book to be sure as soon as possible as you will not have a lot of flexibility with dates.
From Stornoway there are 2 or 3 ferries to Ullapool per day. Wednesdays and Fridays have 3 the first ferry out is very early this would get you in around 9 or 10 depending on how many ferries there are on. From Ullapool its a 60 mile cycle to Inverness.
It is possible to get the afternoon ferry and get to Inverness the same day but not the late 1900 hrs sailings on Wednesdays and Fridays. There is a daily bus with a bike trailer which leaves Ullapool after the ferry arrives for Inverness. From there it might be possible to catch the last train to Glasgow or Edinburgh but check the times I am not sure about this.
A warning about trains from Inverness if you are taking a bike on them you need to book ahead and as early as possible especially if you do not have any flexibility on time or date. There are only 2 spaces per train and it can be busy with people returning from Lejog.
In summary I think it would be possible to do it in 6 days from Oban 1 day to get to Barra 3 days to get to Stornoway and a day to get to Inverness then a day to get home. Have you thought about flights from Inverness that might get you home quicker, one way car hire might also be a possibility.
Another possibility is to hire bikes in the Islands you can pick them up in Barra and drop them off in Stornoway I think you can Hire them fromthe bike shops in Stornoway or Howmore in South Uist (the only 2 on the Islands). From Stornoway you could even fly back to Glasgow if you have enough cash.
Its a great trip if you do it I am sure youl go back for more some time.
The ferry to Barra from Oban leaves mid afternoon and arrives in Barra in the evening. You cannot leave Barra until the following day taking the first or second ferry. There is an option of an early ferry to Lochboisdale from oban it gets you cycling a day earlier if you can travel up on Friday From Barra you could get to Stornoway in 2 days but its better to take 3 or 4.
Logistics can be difficult es[pecially getting back but I would think accommodation at least would be ok at that time of year but if you are using Hotels or B & Bs you would still be better to book to be sure as soon as possible as you will not have a lot of flexibility with dates.
From Stornoway there are 2 or 3 ferries to Ullapool per day. Wednesdays and Fridays have 3 the first ferry out is very early this would get you in around 9 or 10 depending on how many ferries there are on. From Ullapool its a 60 mile cycle to Inverness.
It is possible to get the afternoon ferry and get to Inverness the same day but not the late 1900 hrs sailings on Wednesdays and Fridays. There is a daily bus with a bike trailer which leaves Ullapool after the ferry arrives for Inverness. From there it might be possible to catch the last train to Glasgow or Edinburgh but check the times I am not sure about this.
A warning about trains from Inverness if you are taking a bike on them you need to book ahead and as early as possible especially if you do not have any flexibility on time or date. There are only 2 spaces per train and it can be busy with people returning from Lejog.
In summary I think it would be possible to do it in 6 days from Oban 1 day to get to Barra 3 days to get to Stornoway and a day to get to Inverness then a day to get home. Have you thought about flights from Inverness that might get you home quicker, one way car hire might also be a possibility.
Another possibility is to hire bikes in the Islands you can pick them up in Barra and drop them off in Stornoway I think you can Hire them fromthe bike shops in Stornoway or Howmore in South Uist (the only 2 on the Islands). From Stornoway you could even fly back to Glasgow if you have enough cash.
Its a great trip if you do it I am sure youl go back for more some time.
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
September is a better time than July or August - the midges will have gone.
The risk is that the weather might be a bit unstable, but early September is often wonderful. Fingers crossed for you.
The risk is that the weather might be a bit unstable, but early September is often wonderful. Fingers crossed for you.
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Tigerbiten
- Posts: 2503
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Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
I did the isles north-south in 3 very good days.
It all depends on the ferry times on how much ground you can cover on any one day.
So you'll have to find them for the dates you are travelling and work thing out from there.
Hostels for a three day trip work out to be .......
Theres one in Castlebay as you get off the afternoon ferry across.
Then Benbecula/North Uist.
There a new bunk house (£14 per night) just as you get onto North Uist, I stayed there and its very good.Contact info here
Next would be Tarbet area.
Then onto Stornaway/Ullapool depending on ferry times.
That will give you 40-50 mile days.
Have fun ............
It all depends on the ferry times on how much ground you can cover on any one day.
So you'll have to find them for the dates you are travelling and work thing out from there.
Hostels for a three day trip work out to be .......
Theres one in Castlebay as you get off the afternoon ferry across.
Then Benbecula/North Uist.
There a new bunk house (£14 per night) just as you get onto North Uist, I stayed there and its very good.Contact info here
Next would be Tarbet area.
Then onto Stornaway/Ullapool depending on ferry times.
That will give you 40-50 mile days.
Have fun ............
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
I did that trip, then to Uig on Skye for two days and then a couple of days from Malaig back to Oban in 9 days (with a rest day at Stornaway). Fantastic trip, best I have ever done. Third week in April or from first week in Setember to beat the midge problem. Get a Cal Mac Hopscotch ticket. Only one big hill on North Harris, thats it!
Al
Al
Reuse, recycle, thus do your bit to save the planet.... Get stuff at auctions, Dump, Charity Shops, Facebook Marketplace, Ebay, Car Boots. Choose an Old House, and a Banger ..... And cycle as often as you can......
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ultraburner
- Posts: 69
- Joined: 20 Feb 2010, 4:27pm
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
Thanks alot for the replies. As a novice it means a great deal. Its rather daunting this touring thing! I'm beginning to get an idea of where I'm going now, I admit I would feel better with a map. I have been fruitlessly searching for a copy of the OS Western Scotland and the Western Isles road map, now all but extinct. Is there an alternative?
Also I have a small 16l pannier for commuting duties, however I fear this may not be up to the job of a mini tour. Might anyone be able to suggest something that will fit the bill? Incidentally I fancy camping at least one night on my own , (its a trip of firsts for me!) so Im looking for a tent as well, again Im seeking the advice of those who have been there and done that.
Please excuse my ignorance. What do you do with your bike when your sleeping in a tent?
Also I have a small 16l pannier for commuting duties, however I fear this may not be up to the job of a mini tour. Might anyone be able to suggest something that will fit the bill? Incidentally I fancy camping at least one night on my own , (its a trip of firsts for me!) so Im looking for a tent as well, again Im seeking the advice of those who have been there and done that.
Please excuse my ignorance. What do you do with your bike when your sleeping in a tent?
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randonneur
- Posts: 59
- Joined: 9 Apr 2007, 5:55pm
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
Done a trip this year from Barra to Stornoway, no need to take ferry Castlebay Lochboisdale, easier to take ferry from east coast of Barra to Eriskay which is connected by a causeway to South Uist, easy days ride from Caslebay to Howmore Hostel on South Uist, next day to Berneray, then ferry to Leverburgh and hostels at Tarbet or Rheiningdal.
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
Ultraburner,
Try the OS Road 2 map (Western Scotland and the Western Isles). Scale is 1:25000. Oops just reread your post. What a shame. they were useful maps.
If i was you I would leave the camping for another time. Either that or aim to camp most of the time otherwise you will be carrying all the extra weight and equipment for one nights use.
Try the OS Road 2 map (Western Scotland and the Western Isles). Scale is 1:25000. Oops just reread your post. What a shame. they were useful maps.
If i was you I would leave the camping for another time. Either that or aim to camp most of the time otherwise you will be carrying all the extra weight and equipment for one nights use.
A bike does more miles to the banana than a Porsche.
Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
I have just finished that very trip, I got home yesterday. The weather was appalling, rained a little at least every day and blew hard a few days too. The midges were something else, Sept will be a good time to go, the next time I go out will be April/may or Sept for definite.
I am fairly new to touring also and not as fit as I could be but managed 60-75 km most days with no problems, taking the scenic rather than direct route. Castlebay on Sun night and camped in the bay, but as has been mentioned there is a hostel a few hundred mtrs from the terminal. Barra ferry is around 9.00 and 11.00 then nothing 'til 4.00 and 6.00ish. I rode to Eligory(spelling?) and had a tea in the airport while watching planes land on the beach and got the 4.00 ferry, then up to Daliburgh. THe hostel there has been mentioned in another thread on here, I stayed there and the owners are really nice but it is an ex old folks home so is a little interesting to say the least. It is a rabbit warren inside, I got lost on the way to the showers a couple of times
Then up to Berneray via Benbecula and Uist. Counter-clockwise due to the wind direction. If you want to camp you could camp at the Gatliffe trust hostel, you can use the hostel facilities and camp in the garden effectively, which means you need a tent and sleeping bag, camp mat. I would suggest carrying a sleeping bag if you are using these hostels as they can be quite damp being blackhouses.
I am fairly new to touring also and not as fit as I could be but managed 60-75 km most days with no problems, taking the scenic rather than direct route. Castlebay on Sun night and camped in the bay, but as has been mentioned there is a hostel a few hundred mtrs from the terminal. Barra ferry is around 9.00 and 11.00 then nothing 'til 4.00 and 6.00ish. I rode to Eligory(spelling?) and had a tea in the airport while watching planes land on the beach and got the 4.00 ferry, then up to Daliburgh. THe hostel there has been mentioned in another thread on here, I stayed there and the owners are really nice but it is an ex old folks home so is a little interesting to say the least. It is a rabbit warren inside, I got lost on the way to the showers a couple of times
Then up to Berneray via Benbecula and Uist. Counter-clockwise due to the wind direction. If you want to camp you could camp at the Gatliffe trust hostel, you can use the hostel facilities and camp in the garden effectively, which means you need a tent and sleeping bag, camp mat. I would suggest carrying a sleeping bag if you are using these hostels as they can be quite damp being blackhouses.
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rualexander
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Re: Western isles (Formerly Outer Hebrides) Mini tour
ultraburner wrote:... I have been fruitlessly searching for a copy of the OS Western Scotland and the Western Isles road map, now all but extinct. Is there an alternative? ...
OS 1:250,000 is available online free at http://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/oswebsi ... ta/viewer/ zoom in for the 1:250,000 scale or you can download and save on your computer for later viewing/printing the whole of the UK at that scale from https://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/openda ... ducts.html
Also OS 1:50,000 mapping is available free online at http://www.bing.com/maps/ again zoom in until you get to the scale you want then click on 'Road' in the grey corner and select 'Ordnance Survey Map', keep zooming in and you will also get the 1:25,000 mapping. You can print these by taking a 'print screen' capture and pasting into a document for printing.