Sturmey CS-RF3 on a Trice - fitting Qs

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hercule
Posts: 737
Joined: 5 Feb 2011, 5:18pm

Sturmey CS-RF3 on a Trice - fitting Qs

Postby hercule » 8 Aug 2017, 10:47pm

I've recently acquired a new untouched Sturmey Archer CS-RF3 hub which I intend fitting to my Trice QNT - more for the higher gears than the lower, but the low ranges will be handy too!

I'm struggling to work out how to manage a cable anchor point for the IGH part of the hub. There's no spare cable stops. Mine is one of the suspension models with curved aluminium swing arms, just under 38mm in diameter.

Does anyone know of bolt on cable stops that will fit this diameter tube? I can only find ones that go up to 31.8mm in diameter. Maybe I need to get creative with hose clamps/jubilee clips (though this is a rather ugly solution. Or are any of the flat plates with cable stops that SA use on their other hubs (that secure under the axle nut) compatible with this hub? (The downside of this is that it will leave the cable in a rather exposed position and it's possible it may not fit the Trice's hooded dropouts.)

I was also going to use the SA 3 speed bar end lever for shifting, I presume this will work.

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[XAP]Bob
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008, 4:12pm

Re: Sturmey CS-RF3 on a Trice - fitting Qs

Postby [XAP]Bob » 8 Aug 2017, 11:32pm

The shifter need MTB pull, not traditional SA pull.

For a cable stop I have a small L place held in place with a jubilee clip over inner tube, in front of a cable guide.
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OldBloke
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Joined: 15 Jul 2014, 3:34am

Re: Sturmey CS-RF3 on a Trice - fitting Qs

Postby OldBloke » 9 Aug 2017, 5:06am

Have a look at this Bike Radar hack: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvlrMANstn8
Uses cable ties and produces a very neat result.

(Edit): Just realised it may not be what you want.

OldBloke
Posts: 61
Joined: 15 Jul 2014, 3:34am

Re: Sturmey CS-RF3 on a Trice - fitting Qs

Postby OldBloke » 9 Aug 2017, 5:15am

Could a V-brake noodle be adapted to do what you want; see http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-V-Brake-No ... 1183293754

Geoff.D
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Re: Sturmey CS-RF3 on a Trice - fitting Qs

Postby Geoff.D » 9 Aug 2017, 9:16pm

The Bike Radar hack above is a neat job, but it's not a cable stop.

I put a CS-RF3 on my ICE RS. I fashioned a cable stop from a rear light bracket that I had in my "odds-and-ends" boxes. I can't remember the make, but it was the type that had and adjustable strap to go round the seat pin, to give approximate diameter, and them tightened up with a small bolt and encapsulated nut. (This bolt would also have held the rear light in place, allowing it to rotate appropriately)

There was enough space between the seat pin and bolt for me to drill a hole for the cable, and a "well" half way through as an "outer cable stop". The whole lot was plastic and quite neat.

The beauty of it was that the diameter and shape of the swing arm was immaterial. The light bracket had enough range to accommodate the diameter and flexibility for the shape.

(I've used an MTB gear shifter, on the bars under the seat)

hercule
Posts: 737
Joined: 5 Feb 2011, 5:18pm

Re: Sturmey CS-RF3 on a Trice - fitting Qs

Postby hercule » 9 Aug 2017, 10:14pm

Thanks for the responses.

I think I'll get creative with a bit of aluminium "angle iron" and a stainless jubilee clip, with a standard cable adjuster - hopefully I can mount it in a relatively inconspicuous position. I used a jubilee clip in heat shrink tubing to fit a Minoura mount to the boom of my Kettwiesel, so I know it can do it fairly neatly! I've got some plastic light mount brackets knocking about but I fear they may be too flexible to take the cable strain (and most of the time I anticipate it will be in middle gear, so under tension most of the time).

Pity about the thumb shifter, I thought that would look pretty cool! This seems reasonably small and mountable somewhere on the handlebar, plus it's indexed: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-shifte ... fter-plus/

I don't really see the point of the Bike Radar "hack" - I'd rather zip tie the cables direct to the frame, their technique still uses a cable tie but has the cable casing floating above the frame and possibly more vulnerable to damage.

Brucey
Posts: 26532
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Sturmey CS-RF3 on a Trice - fitting Qs

Postby Brucey » 10 Aug 2017, 9:52am

hercule wrote: ....are any of the flat plates with cable stops that SA use on their other hubs (that secure under the axle nut) compatible with this hub? (The downside of this is that it will leave the cable in a rather exposed position and it's possible it may not fit the Trice's hooded dropouts.)


I think that the brackets that fit other sturmey hubs will work with this one too, but they are not a very elegant solution IMHO. You can of course stop the cable housing a long way from the hub but if you do this, with this particular hub, on this type of machine, I'd be concerned that the cable/pinch bolt/barrel adjuster may flap up and down and perhaps cause the hub to work its way out of top gear; the shift spring is a fair bit weaker in this hub than others. So if you have a long exposed cable run into the hub, I'd suggest that you would be well advised to fit a guide or support of some kind near the barrel adjuster anyway, and if you are going to do that, you perhaps may as well have a housing stop there.

I think that you can make a smaller SA fulcrum clip any length you like by adding a strip of metal as an extension piece and a second nut and bolt, and maybe that is the easiest solution.

I was also going to use the SA 3 speed bar end lever for shifting, I presume this will work.


The hub is designed to use an MTB front shifter, but it may still work OK with a standard 3s shifter. Mick measured the cable pull vs gear relationship a while back, and IIRC much of the additional cable pull was 'lost' in first gear, whereas the cable pull from 3 to 2 was about the same as normal. I have an internal I can use to check the pull if required, but, in a nutshell provided

a) the cable is full slack in 3rd, and
b) the cable is pulled at least 0.5mm past the point at which you lose 3rd and go to second gear and
c) the cable is pulled at least 1mm past the point that 2nd gear is lost and first is engaged

then it should all be OK

cheers
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