Dynohub on a Trice

[Tilley]

I quite like the idea of having a dynohub drum brake combination in one of the front wheels of my Trice QNT.
I gather that the weight of the dynohub may have an adverse affect on the steering geometry due to the increased weight on one side. However my most intriguing question is how do you cable it. given that you don't have a fork leg to run the cable up and the dynohub connections are on the outside face of the wheel?
I would guess that someone on here has the answer and photos would be very useful.

[[XAP]Bob]

No effect on steering - get a stub axle dtnamo, connection on the inside

ICE will sort you out

[andrew_s]

Is there a stub axle drum brake dynohub made?
SON do various stub axle dynohubs, but they are all disc.

[[XAP]Bob]

Yes, SA do one, and I think ICE have a few in stock (or are expecting them).

[[XAP]Bob]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sturmey-Arche ... 2ef4ae93a1

Oh look, so do Practical Cycles...

[nigelnightmare]

The ones that "practical cycles" sell are the shorter axle version and you would have to modify the trice QNT's STEEL Kingpin axle to fit it.

I have one on my Trice QNT (I didn't know about the longer axle one).
I cut the axle tube down and put a modified locking washer to stop the axle turning when tightening it.
I also changed the routing of the cable so that it comes out of the END of the axle and sealed it with silicone.

I have not noticed any difference in handling since fitting it doesn't pull to the right.
I have steady light from about 1.8mph Running an AXA LUXX 70 front & AXA standlight rear they flicker for a short time until the capacitor is charged.

ICE had both types, the longer axle version (20mm longer) fits without any mods.

They said that they didn't use them because they felt agricultural compared to SON but that they had NOT actually fitted one to a trike!

The fact that it has more resistance with the lights OFF when compared to the SON doesn't bother me as I always have mine ON and either way it's not noticeable, unlike with a bottle dynamo.
I've been using mine for about 6 months now without any problems.

HTH

[Tilley]

Thanks for the feedback some really useful points raised. Now I just have to find the funds.

[nigelnightmare]

If you build your own wheel :-

1, Hub £84.99
2, Rim approx £10
3, Spokes £8 inc post 14g plain stainless with chromed brass nipples

20" wheels HARDer to lace up (short spokes get bent rather than bowing) than a 700c.
EASY to true compared to a 700c.

Lights will set you back 71 euro's inc P&P from Germany for the ones I have. (See previous post ^^^)

HTH
And good luck.

[[XAP]Bob]

Depending on your lbs you might be able to get away with just lacing the wheel and laying a tenner to get it tensioned and trued.

[crossy]

If you already had a wheel could you not just strip it down and reuse the rim and spokes? If not why not?

[[XAP]Bob]

Different flange diameter.
Trike off the road for the duration.

[nigelnightmare]

If you already had a wheel could you not just strip it down and reuse the rim and spokes? If not why not?

If the existing hub is a SA drum X-SD and the dynohub was also SA X-SDD then the flanges are the same.
Re-using the rim is Okay but it's not good practice to re-use spokes.
If you keep the old wheel to use as a spare or even to re-fit if you sell the trike keeping the dynohub & lights for a later model ICE trike.

That's what I did.
After all you spent around £200(self build) upgrading to dynamo lights and you're not going to be able to charge an extra £200 on top of the going price for a used Trice QNT just because it's got dynamo lights.

You'd only have to do it ALL again with the replacement trike.