How did you break into recumbents?

DIscuss anything relating to non-standard cycles and their equipment.
User avatar
pjclinch
Posts: 5469
Joined: 29 Oct 2007, 2:32pm
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Contact:

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by pjclinch »

Boom length is, IME, a bit like saddle height: start with a "rule of thumb" and then experiment from there, in both directions, and see what works. Minor adjustments shouldn't need the chain changing. The only cable you might need to change is the front derailleur.

Mine is set using the standard saddle starter of crank at maximum extension and heel on the pedal, knee slightly bent, and that works for me on the SMGT too. Some prefer longer, some shorter. My wife has longer legs than I do and we have saddles on uprights about the same, but if I ride her 'bent for any length of time without moving the boom my hamstrings start telling me all about it. I find I'm less sensitive to boom length than saddle height, but experiment and you'll get something that works.

Pete.
Often seen riding a bike around Dundee...
User avatar
pjclinch
Posts: 5469
Joined: 29 Oct 2007, 2:32pm
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Contact:

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by pjclinch »

Alan58 wrote:I have lost 20 kg in weight since March and I set off on LEJOG solo with my tent on the 6th May. All advice gratefully received.


Much of the advice for a LEJoG will be irrespective of the mount. You may have found it already, but if not there's a specific LEJoG board on the forum where you'll probably get more useful advice than the HPV section.

Pete.
Often seen riding a bike around Dundee...
User avatar
NUKe
Posts: 4161
Joined: 23 Apr 2007, 11:07pm
Location: Suffolk

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by NUKe »

Tangled Metal wrote:
My next thing I need to do is get the cables, chain and boom extended. Think I'll use a bike repair but who collects. I need a few more inches on the boom I think. BTW does anyone know how to work out boom length? At the moment my legs are too scrunched up. Should my legs be slightly bent when the foot is on the pedal at its furthest point? Kind of like an upright?

yes it is just like a normal bike in that respect pedal leg slightly bent, in the five o'clock position but the HP manual is very comprehensive on what to do can be downloaded from here
http://www.hpvelotechnik.com/service/do ... ml#manuals

welcome to Darkside.
NUKe
_____________________________________
Tangled Metal
Posts: 9505
Joined: 13 Feb 2015, 8:32pm

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by Tangled Metal »

The chain is as tight as I think it can go and the derailleur cable too. With that my legs are quite bent. Doesn't bother me while I get used to it but I doubt I'll get away without lengthening it more for a tour. Plus I can't work out what the rear derailleur is doing. I'm convinced it folded up and knocked the cassette at one point.

Mind it I'm in the middle ring at the front and middle to second smallest in the cassette when I tried it out. Flat promenade only. Well there was a steep hill off it that I managed. I can really turn a high gear at times even in my first proper recumbent ride. It felt scary fast and sticky when I turned around. Getting past a pedestrian had me stressed and into the death grip in conscious of avoiding.

BTW the legs were OK after an hour but my shoulders / tops of arms really ached and were tense. I guess that's part of learning to loosen up. It'll come quickly the relaxation. I can already look back when I want to and took one hand off the steering a few times.

My starting isn't right yet. I start sitting bolt upright then sit back when I'm moving. The only issue is I'm up the seat slightly which means I drop down pulling layers up. Then I need to adjust clothing when settled. Right now I just can't start laying back.

Only one problem now. I was always quicker than my partner and child on a bike but I could comfortably ride at the 8mph they like. Now I can still ride that slowly but it just feels wrong. I can even freewheel slower but the bike is calling for faster speeds. The solo open roads must be calling. I just need more safe practise first before I hit the road network properly.

Do you think the dark side has got me?
User avatar
squeaker
Posts: 4112
Joined: 12 Jan 2007, 11:43pm
Location: Sussex

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by squeaker »

Alan58 wrote:There you go Tigerbiten: Chainset
SRAM S600 (44/32/22) + X5 front derailleur- Qty: 1

Need to know the sprocket size on the Alfine hub to work out the gear range - there's a handy calculator here.

And welcome to the dark side!
"42"
User avatar
[XAP]Bob
Posts: 19793
Joined: 26 Sep 2008, 4:12pm

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by [XAP]Bob »

Tangled Metal wrote:The chain is as tight as I think it can go and the derailleur cable too. With that my legs are quite bent. Doesn't bother me while I get used to it but I doubt I'll get away without lengthening it more for a tour.

I have shattered a cable outer by pulling the boom out without concentrating - so do be a little careful when extending.
Adding a little extra chain is a good idea, check the big/big is possible when you are at home...

Do you think the dark side has got me?

The Dark side has all of us... It's our response which is important.
A shortcut has to be a challenge, otherwise it would just be the way. No situation is so dire that panic cannot make it worse.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
User avatar
NUKe
Posts: 4161
Joined: 23 Apr 2007, 11:07pm
Location: Suffolk

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by NUKe »

Tangled Metal wrote:The chain is as tight as I think it can go and the derailleur cable too. With that my legs are quite bent. Doesn't bother me while I get used to it but I doubt I'll get away without lengthening it more for a tour. Plus I can't work out what the rear derailleur is doing. I'm convinced it folded up and knocked the cassette at one point.

chain length big chain to big the rear sprocket mech should be in the 5 o'clock position, just as normal. don't let the tubes and idlers fool you its still just a bike.
Mind it I'm in the middle ring at the front and middle to second smallest in the cassette when I tried it out. Flat promenade only. Well there was a steep hill off it that I managed. I can really turn a high gear at times even in my first proper recumbent ride. It felt scary fast and sticky when I turned around. Getting past a pedestrian had me stressed and into the death grip in conscious of avoiding.
it takes awhile but there is nothing to be scared of, just relax, if the gap is small and your not sure stop

BTW the legs were OK after an hour but my shoulders / tops of arms really ached and were tense. I guess that's part of learning to loosen up. It'll come quickly the relaxation. I can already look back when I want to and took one hand off the steering a few times.
yep that will come, just think relax, some minor adjustments of seat postion may be required, but I too found this at first
My starting isn't right yet. I start sitting bolt upright then sit back when I'm moving. The only issue is I'm up the seat slightly which means I drop down pulling layers up. Then I need to adjust clothing when settled. Right now I just can't start laying back.

If you are too far up the seat this probably means boom length is a little too short, it will come, Best tip you do need to be in a low gear to set off, and sitting up to stop makes things easier.


Only one problem now. I was always quicker than my partner and child on a bike but I could comfortably ride at the 8mph they like. Now I can still ride that slowly but it just feels wrong. I can even freewheel slower but the bike is calling for faster speeds. The solo open roads must be calling. I just need more safe practise first before I hit the road network properly.

you do need to go out on your own, you will know its right to mix it with the tin skins,
I spent an hour riding round a car park, Then went out on bank holiday very early in the morning very quite roads. Just get used to the bike and to play to find what feels right and what doesn't. try lower gears and spin is also another good tip. I find I use the full range of gears available apart from the very bottom and very top gears.
Do you think the dark side has got me?

The Dark side is within him
NUKe
_____________________________________
hercule
Posts: 1156
Joined: 5 Feb 2011, 5:18pm

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by hercule »

One thing I learned quite quickly was the phenomenon of target fixation. Namely, if there’s a big pothole ahead and you stare at it worrying about missing it, you’ll probably go right in. Look where you want to go, not at what you want to avoid. Looking into the middle distance and not at what is just about under your wheels also helps the wobbles too.

PS if the recumbent bug bites, there is no known cure - you have been warned!


I'm a trendy consumer. Just look at my wobbly bog brush using hovercraft full of eels
Tangled Metal
Posts: 9505
Joined: 13 Feb 2015, 8:32pm

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by Tangled Metal »

There's always a cure but it involves at least a touring recumbent, trike and a fast two wheeled recumbent too. Then you will need a touring trike, off road trike...

Put it simply the cure for any form of cycling is N+1. The cure works just as well for recumbent riding.

BTW anyone know a good fast recumbent to get? Next step up the chain? Anyone seen one? :wink:

Death grip comes and goes so I'm going to have to work on that. Then it does need kitting out. Mirrors, means to attach lights, low rider (mucho money). Then cycle computers.

It's got a bottle cage right on the front. That didn't seem a good place to me. Where do you put your bottles? What do you use to mount lights and computers? I'll need lights even in summer. There's so much more to add to it.

Thinking of the minoura type of bracket to carry the lights. It's a bar attached to an arm attached to a loop clamp that goes around anywhere suitably located. One could be lights and perhaps another for computer but I'm not sure.
Alan58
Posts: 72
Joined: 17 Jan 2018, 12:36pm
Location: Bedford

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by Alan58 »

Hi Pete - many thanks found the LEJOG threads: I was born in Dundee Hawkhill Road not been back for many a long day. I will take my Route across Fife and through Dundee Arbroath Aberdeen and then over. That is the plan. In my United shirt as I go. Thanks for the advice.

Hi Squeaker: I think I need to have a chat with Kevin of D Tech about gears and stuff. Thanks for taking time to reply.
Tangled Metal
Posts: 9505
Joined: 13 Feb 2015, 8:32pm

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by Tangled Metal »

Kevin at Dtek is worth visiting if you are passing or live nearby. I talked to him and emailed him a few times before buying my recumbent. He was very helpful and gave me some good pointers and advice before I took the plunge and got one.
User avatar
Tigerbiten
Posts: 2503
Joined: 29 Jun 2009, 6:49am

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by Tigerbiten »

Alan58 wrote:Hi Squeaker: I think I need to have a chat with Kevin of D Tech about gears and stuff. Thanks for taking time to reply.

I assume you'll be getting a 26" back wheel and probably an 18 tooth sprocket.
This will give you a range of roughly 16.7 -> 102.6", the exact range depends on tyre size.

My advice about gears is go for the maximum range possible while getting the first gear as low as possible.
The front derailleur should cope with a 48/36/22 or a 48/34/22 triple and it's possible to fit a 20 tooth sprocket, if it's not already fitted.
This gives a range of roughly 15.1" -> 100.8", or half a gear down.

Fattish tyres at medium pressure gives you the smoothest ride while not upping rolling resistance to much.
For 20" front wheels.
Trykers (40-406) at ~60-70 psi are probably the best but tend to pick up flint/glass shards due to the soft compound. Marathon Racers (40-406) are similar but have a harder compound. Big Apples (50-406) has a thicker layer of rubber so I think are more puncture resistant but don't roll as well. After that you're into the likes of M+'s, excellent puncture resistance but terrible rolling resistance.
Not sure of 26" tyres as all my wheels are 20".

Luck ........ :D
Alan58
Posts: 72
Joined: 17 Jan 2018, 12:36pm
Location: Bedford

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by Alan58 »

I have taken the plunge and I pick my new Adventure Trike from Kevin on Thursday fingers crossed. I have spoken to Kevin at DTek a few times and he has as you say been really helpful.

I am unsure as to what tyres I have on the trike exactly the back wheel is 26. I will put the spec on the board when I confirm it. Thanks for all your help in the meantime.

From a trike novice :D
User avatar
squeaker
Posts: 4112
Joined: 12 Jan 2007, 11:43pm
Location: Sussex

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by squeaker »

Alan58 wrote:I have taken the plunge and I pick my new Adventure Trike from Kevin on Thursday fingers crossed. I have spoken to Kevin at DTek a few times and he has as you say been really helpful.

I am unsure as to what tyres I have on the trike exactly the back wheel is 26. I will put the spec on the board when I confirm it. Thanks for all your help in the meantime.

From a trike novice :D

8) Just get out and enjoy it - specifications only matter when you want to change something to make it more suitable for you ;) Once you get the miles in you'll know what questions to ask :)
"42"
User avatar
squeaker
Posts: 4112
Joined: 12 Jan 2007, 11:43pm
Location: Sussex

Re: How did you break into recumbents?

Post by squeaker »

Tangled Metal wrote:It's got a bottle cage right on the front. That didn't seem a good place to me. Where do you put your bottles? What do you use to mount lights and computers? I'll need lights even in summer. There's so much more to add to it.

Thinking of the minoura type of bracket to carry the lights. It's a bar attached to an arm attached to a loop clamp that goes around anywhere suitably located. One could be lights and perhaps another for computer but I'm not sure.

Bottles go in the pockets of my rear rack bag although I find using a drinking tube works best if you really don't want to stop. As for lights, this sort of thing can work on the front mech tube
Light bracket.jpg
if you don't have the sort of light that mounts directly
LS-885.jpg

HTH
Last edited by squeaker on 30 Jan 2018, 10:23am, edited 1 time in total.
"42"
Post Reply