Anyone know the length of Thule freeride 532 or Thule ProRide 598 support arms? I just need to find out the length from the wheel tray to the top or the section the frame would go into.
Most frame support arms seem to be about 55cm or slightly less I think I can get away with 60cm at the part of my frame that's clear to take the frame mount.
The ProRide 598 looks like it'll work out longer than I need.
Roof rack for recumbents
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PDQ Mobile
- Posts: 4659
- Joined: 2 Aug 2015, 4:40pm
Re: Roof rack for recumbents
Mine (custom made pipes) is 58cm from the swinging rack securing bolts to the centre of the clamp bolt. Fits SMGT perfectly.
It will also accomodate a normal bike (slightly higher than normal on the down tube) which is a big plus.
It will also accomodate a normal bike (slightly higher than normal on the down tube) which is a big plus.
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Tangled Metal
- Posts: 9509
- Joined: 13 Feb 2015, 8:32pm
Re: Roof rack for recumbents
Is the arm vertical and where on the frame does it go?
I'm thinking just in front of the front seat bracket just behind the USS. There's a clear frame and it fits over the front wheel too.
Behind that point there's often parts of the drivetrain or seat bracket. The frame does rise up slightly towards the chainring so fixing nearer the back would reduce the arm length.
Unfortunately I've no time to bodge and besides I'd not trust my handiwork if I did try to.
I'm thinking just in front of the front seat bracket just behind the USS. There's a clear frame and it fits over the front wheel too.
Behind that point there's often parts of the drivetrain or seat bracket. The frame does rise up slightly towards the chainring so fixing nearer the back would reduce the arm length.
Unfortunately I've no time to bodge and besides I'd not trust my handiwork if I did try to.
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PDQ Mobile
- Posts: 4659
- Joined: 2 Aug 2015, 4:40pm
Re: Roof rack for recumbents
Yes just there on the tube under the front of the seat. Wheels strapped as usual.
Arm is not quite vertical and the triangular strength moment is there.
I post a piccy for you if I get a minute to go cycling.
Short (dry!) distances I leave the seat on.
Long distances I take it off.
Bodge! Certainly not.
Good strong job - tubing I used better than original.
Galvanized too and I painted them.
Arm is not quite vertical and the triangular strength moment is there.
I post a piccy for you if I get a minute to go cycling.
Short (dry!) distances I leave the seat on.
Long distances I take it off.
Bodge! Certainly not.
Good strong job - tubing I used better than original.
Galvanized too and I painted them.
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Tangled Metal
- Posts: 9509
- Joined: 13 Feb 2015, 8:32pm
Re: Roof rack for recumbents
Just tried my Halfords carrier (the £30 one not the cheapest essential one costing £15). It was getting dark but I managed to fit it by taking the seat off to get the rather bulky knob for the end bolt to swivel into the locking position. I then pushed the bike back a bit and there is a bit of an angle. I would say it's 80 degrees from the wheel tray. I might be able to get more angle on daylight but the whole process of putting it on the carrier when it's on top of the car won't be easy.
So I'm thinking of getting an easier carrier like the two I mentioned earlier. If I get one and it doesn't fit I'll just use it for my partner's bike and I'll just use what I've got. The other Halfords carrier I'll use for our son's 16" bike. It'll be good to get it out of the boot. That's if it fits the carrier!
So which carrier's best? Save money and use the open top clamp of the freeride 532. The open clamp would be easier to drop the bike frame into without a bolt getting in the way. The other option is the more expensive proride 598. The hook goes over the top and clamps down using a dial type knob on the base of the rack. The hook can open wide and I think you put the wheels on the tray first (it's higher at the back of the tray to prevent you overshooting the tray with the wheels). Then you move the frame into the mouth if the hook (bar stays in position so you don't have to lift it up). Then one hand supporting the bike you screw the hook down with the knob. It clicks through the ratchet until you hear a loud click which is when the right torque has been achieved and it's secure.
So both are good but is it worth the £46 more for the proride 598 one? Anyone heard of Atera brand carriers? Roofbox Ltd rate it 5 stars and customer reviews taste it 4.6 stars. The Thule ones are 4 stars or 5 stars for the proride one. That proride one is for aero bars but it need to buy an adaptor kit to fit rectangular bars.
So I'm thinking of getting an easier carrier like the two I mentioned earlier. If I get one and it doesn't fit I'll just use it for my partner's bike and I'll just use what I've got. The other Halfords carrier I'll use for our son's 16" bike. It'll be good to get it out of the boot. That's if it fits the carrier!
So which carrier's best? Save money and use the open top clamp of the freeride 532. The open clamp would be easier to drop the bike frame into without a bolt getting in the way. The other option is the more expensive proride 598. The hook goes over the top and clamps down using a dial type knob on the base of the rack. The hook can open wide and I think you put the wheels on the tray first (it's higher at the back of the tray to prevent you overshooting the tray with the wheels). Then you move the frame into the mouth if the hook (bar stays in position so you don't have to lift it up). Then one hand supporting the bike you screw the hook down with the knob. It clicks through the ratchet until you hear a loud click which is when the right torque has been achieved and it's secure.
So both are good but is it worth the £46 more for the proride 598 one? Anyone heard of Atera brand carriers? Roofbox Ltd rate it 5 stars and customer reviews taste it 4.6 stars. The Thule ones are 4 stars or 5 stars for the proride one. That proride one is for aero bars but it need to buy an adaptor kit to fit rectangular bars.