Cycling UK Forum

Or just be a skinflint like me and use a cut down MTB bar end (though you will have to spread the clamp a bit to get it past the internally routed cables when you’re installing it)

Yes, @£32. The Busch & Muller cycle star mirrors come with a clamp that should work, about £18.

Coming late to this discussion, but recently bought a Tri Tris 26,
For mirrors ,I went to my local motorcycle factors, and bought some from there,a pair for about £20,seems good quality made from metal.
They fit on the inserts to the handle bars ,lifted up the gear triggers,they fitted snuggly on a 2 pt bracket
Will post pics later.

Grldtnr wrote:Coming late to this discussion, but recently bought a Tri Tris 26,
For mirrors ,I went to my local motorcycle factors, and bought some from there,a pair for about £20,seems good quality made from metal.
They fit on the inserts to the handle bars ,lifted up the gear triggers,they fitted snuggly on a 2 pt bracket
Will post pics later.

I look forward to seeing some photos. Since I posted I've added the SKS bottle cage mount on the main frame tube, and changed the tyres to 38-406 Maxxis DTH. I disklike the cable loops aesthetically, so might still fit a bar-end shifter on the left and reverse the twist grip on the right but that won't be so good ergonomically.

Still very happy with my T-Tris20 and had zero problems with it.

I can't recomend bar end shifters enough. They are fairly expensive but worth it. I run mine in friction mode and always find the gear I'm looking for. This also means I can buy cheaper 8 speed versions that work fine with my 9 speed set up.

Plus one on the bar ends. I didn't spread the clamp though. Just removed the bar ends to fit.

Run mine like this. Looks meager but I find I need no foam or grip on the "handle bar" though in very cold weather without gloves i can feel the cold of the metal.

The B&M cycle star mirror is working fine strapped to the side at the top of the handlebar.It's out of the way of spray from the wheel too which is another consideration when positioning a mirror:

I've been having problems with changing gear on the rear wheel. It's become very imprecise, particularly when changing up into 8th on the 9 gear cassette.The problems seemed to coincide with changing the rear wheel back to the OEM disc wheel but even if that had a slightly different hub or dish that doesn't explain why adjusting the gear cable wouldn't fix it.

So this morning I decided to check the RD alignment and remove and lubricate the gear cable. The alignment was slightly out in the vertical plane, consistent with the RD getting an inward knock. I corrected the alignment, lubricated the gear cable, reassembled, put the trike on a stand and set to work setting up the gear change from scratch. No joy. It struggles to shift down from 4 to 5, yet sticks in 1st when I try to shift to second. Frustrating when SRAM X series is usually so reliable. I could try unscewing the B-screw but I had an issue with the derailleur knuckle catching on the chain stay when the screw was too far undone.

What to do? I guess it's time to install bar ends and to reverse the brake levers. I'll need to revert to a Shimano RD, i have an old 9 speed long cage Deore RD. Could probably do with then shortening the cables which is going to be a pain. And recheck the hanger alignment.

I feel your pain. I had a similar experience, lined up the RD hanger only to find that the RD was also bent, hence the ongoing problems.

I think I've sorted the problem. There was a brake ferule terminating the cable at the twist grip end and this was inhibiting adjustment. I trimmed the end of the outer cable and fitted a metal gear cable ferrule. I put the trike on the stand and soon had it changing smoothly up and down the entire cassette.

Glad you got it sorted.

A quick update just to say that I'm very happy with the T-Tris 20 and there's nothing I would change. which is quite unusual given the way I have tinkered with other recumbents over the years. Although I did change the RD because I found the Sora medium cage one fouled the chain stay which was odd. Everything just works and I haven't felt in need of suspension. The 3x20 format may not be in fashion but it makes the trike easy to live with. Actually I can think of a couple of minor areas for improvement. The SKS strap on bottle cage can start to rotate in the wet and having to use a Minoura clamp for a front light is not exactly neat. Some bosses on the front derailleur tube to take a light mount would be better. I've stopped trying to go fast and just relax into the ride. After a while you don't notice the weight. I think running 3 lightweight tyres helps, as does the very stiff frame - no flex.

I tend to run a heavier duty tyre on the back vs the front, 40-406 Marathon Racers front and 50-406 Big Apple back.
Back wheel punctures are such a PITA that I'll accept the slight increase in rolling resistance for the slight increase in puncture resistance.
They are all run at around 60 psi.
Plus I get roughly twice the distance out of a Big Apple before I wear it down to the carcase vs a lighter tyre.
Not that important around home as a new tyre is easy to source, but it's a different question on long tour.

Luck .....