Not much has happened. The fork came back, repaired. I successfully installed the caliper. Put the RD on. FD was a bit of a problem because the shim provided for the skinny derailleur tube was for a 31.8mm clamp, so I had to rummage around in the garage to find a plastic cylindrical shape to make up a 28.6 shim for my road FD, Actually the FD is a shimano R443. I guess the R means road but the leverage looks better than on the spare Sora and Tiagra FDs I have knocking around, which is why I chose it to go with the MRX Comp micro-ratchet grip shifter. The chain is on but I will no doubt have to adjust the length,
Been busy on other bike projects. Sold the AZUB Origami and Spa Wayfarer. Wifey expressed an interest in joining me on bike rides if she had an eBike so that is the priority at the moment. I'm converting a used Dawes step through I picked up.
P-38 build
Re: P-38 build
Last edited by UpWrong on 13 Jan 2022, 8:40pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: P-38 build
eBike done, so back to the P-38. I decided to fit some mudguards, never an easy job on a 'bent. The front guard is a kids stayless guard from Wilko. It's a bit short at the front though otherwise very acceptable and a £5 bargain. The rear was much more difficult. I was very keen to use the 37mm Hyper Voyager folding tyre but there was only a 3mm gap under the seat stay. I tried fitting some SKS Raceblades, no joy. Thought about fitting a guard over the stay. It wouldn't look good and it was more likely the seat mesh would impact it. So have settled for a 32mm tyre which still proved to be a tight fit with guards. I had to dispense with a seat stay bolt, instead using a zip tie on the bridge to raise it as much as poss. The disc brake was quite in the way too. I chose to shorten the guard, using a single stay each side and bending it round the disc caliper.
A shortened guard has a number of advangages: less weight, more aero, reduces the length of the bike and the bike can be tilted to vertical on the back wheel.
A shortened guard has a number of advangages: less weight, more aero, reduces the length of the bike and the bike can be tilted to vertical on the back wheel.
Re: P-38 build
That could be a good solution, although I was looking to use an existing wheel and tyres. I have 3 Hyper Voyagers.
Re: P-38 build
you'll doubtless sell those voyagers for good money.
Re: P-38 build
Oh dear, the Shimano R443 front derailleur and the 22/33/44 chainset are not compatible. I know the R443 usually accompanies a 30/42/52 chainset but I've found it pretty versatile previously. Maybe the slack angle of the derailleur post has something to do with it. I'm going to pick up a cheap MTB derailleur from Decathlon tomorrow to see if that solves it.
Re: P-38 build
Had another thought. The 33T middle has no ramps and pins, it's the inner off a compact double. I suspect 36T would be the smallest middle for 110 BCD. Think I will have to order one.
EDIT: Spa sell 33T and 34T Middle/Inner rings (110BCD). I've decided on a 34T to make a 24/34/44 crankset.
EDIT: Spa sell 33T and 34T Middle/Inner rings (110BCD). I've decided on a 34T to make a 24/34/44 crankset.
Re: P-38 build
I fitted an Altus FD M313 derailleur and that makes the shifting possible even with a chain ring without ramps and pins, for now, until a new ring arrives from Spa.
So I put the pedals on and that completes the build, apart from a ping bell and a couple of bottle cages. So I just had to weigh it
, and it comes in at 28.5lbs (13Kg).
I'm not sure I can manage stopping and starting. With slippers on in the kitchen and sat back in the seat it was literally the ends of toes only making contact with the floor. I might swap the 40mm Marathon on the front for something slightly smaller like my beloved Maxxis DTH or a Kojak.
So I put the pedals on and that completes the build, apart from a ping bell and a couple of bottle cages. So I just had to weigh it
, and it comes in at 28.5lbs (13Kg).I'm not sure I can manage stopping and starting. With slippers on in the kitchen and sat back in the seat it was literally the ends of toes only making contact with the floor. I might swap the 40mm Marathon on the front for something slightly smaller like my beloved Maxxis DTH or a Kojak.
Re: P-38 build
I had a quick spin round the block. Wow! I can manage the seat height but I need to sit up when stopping. I can then sit back ok to push off. I need to do some adjustments. The boom twisted, so 8Nm was not enough, The seat cover lifted off the base so I'll need to refit and tighten. Something's rubbing, probably the brakes so I'll realign the calipers. I do not like disc brakes. I can't see the right gear indicator from the cockpit but the thumb/finger lever positions are comfortable so may have to live with that, rather than rotating the shifter inwards to see the indicator.
Impressions? It's light, responsive, easy to handle and manoeuver, easy to signal, no heel strike on some tight-ish turns. The riding position is more closed than I've encountered before, so may take some getting used to. It felt comfortable. The seat frame bends as well as having a mesh cover.
Impressions? It's light, responsive, easy to handle and manoeuver, easy to signal, no heel strike on some tight-ish turns. The riding position is more closed than I've encountered before, so may take some getting used to. It felt comfortable. The seat frame bends as well as having a mesh cover.
Re: P-38 build
Well done.
How about some photos of you on it with your feet up, please?
Jonathan
How about some photos of you on it with your feet up, please?
Jonathan
Re: P-38 build
I reset the boom (9 Nm of torque this time), adjusted the binding front brake, refitted the seat mesh to the seat base, and rotated the gear shifter slightly inwards. I fitted a ping bell and the seat bag and loaded it up with tools and the right sized inner tubes, then I was all set for a proper ride. Alas, no. Within 200 yards the seat mesh had come off the front of the base again.
I checked the manual and the Lightning web site help guides but couldn't find anything to suggest I'd fitted the seat cover wrong. So I've had to devise my own solution. The front of the cover has a pocket to go over the rounded front end of the seat. There are two eyelets on the underside of the pocket which weren't being used. So I used shoe laces to pull these back, passing the laces through other eyelets further up the seat before tieing them to the transverse spar at the rear of the underside of the seat.
Since the bike was upside down to do this, I took the opportunity to fit a couple of bottle cages to the frame. I noticed that the rear mudguard clearance was really tight. I may have to look for an alternative mudguard if I'm to keep the 32mm tyre.
Fingers crossed for tomorrow.
I checked the manual and the Lightning web site help guides but couldn't find anything to suggest I'd fitted the seat cover wrong. So I've had to devise my own solution. The front of the cover has a pocket to go over the rounded front end of the seat. There are two eyelets on the underside of the pocket which weren't being used. So I used shoe laces to pull these back, passing the laces through other eyelets further up the seat before tieing them to the transverse spar at the rear of the underside of the seat.
Fingers crossed for tomorrow.
Re: P-38 build
I've had my first proper ride. The seat mesh fix worked, it stayed on the front of the seat this time. I am impressed by the responsiveness, ride and handling of the P-38. The balance and handling are superb. Low speed manoeuvers, starting off, signaling whilst cycling are all easy. I really notice how light it is compared to my other 'bent bikes. The transmission feels efficient. When you push harder the bike responds. It handles poor road surfaces well. I wasn't getting bounced out of the seat when hitting sunken drain covers and troughs in the road at speed.
The seat height does make it awkward for me in busy traffic with lots of stop-starts. Also some junctions such as those on a slope with poor road surfaces are tricky, or when there's a heavy camber. I'd rather stick with 406/700 wheels than switch to 349/559 though. It might be worth trying a 35mm Kojak on the front in place of the 40mm Racer. Even 3 mm or so could make a noticeable difference. Likewise a 28mm rear tyre in place of the current 32mm one, although I prefer to run a 32mm tyre at 60 psi than a 28mm tyre at 75 psi.
Problems:
1. The spokes in the rear wheel need tightening. I did struggle with the build on account of the rim not being radially true.
2. The rear mudguard clearance is tight and the guard is twisting. I have a flat but wide (60mm!) guard I could try, but I've lost the seat stay bridge fitting (might not have had one). Or order the Flinger guards that "Blondie" fitted.
I'll look at whether it's possible to fit the Tubus Ti-Airy rack I have. The seat bag is good but I'd need more capacity for a light tour. The rack might help or hinder a mudguard solution.
The seat height does make it awkward for me in busy traffic with lots of stop-starts. Also some junctions such as those on a slope with poor road surfaces are tricky, or when there's a heavy camber. I'd rather stick with 406/700 wheels than switch to 349/559 though. It might be worth trying a 35mm Kojak on the front in place of the 40mm Racer. Even 3 mm or so could make a noticeable difference. Likewise a 28mm rear tyre in place of the current 32mm one, although I prefer to run a 32mm tyre at 60 psi than a 28mm tyre at 75 psi.
Problems:
1. The spokes in the rear wheel need tightening. I did struggle with the build on account of the rim not being radially true.
2. The rear mudguard clearance is tight and the guard is twisting. I have a flat but wide (60mm!) guard I could try, but I've lost the seat stay bridge fitting (might not have had one). Or order the Flinger guards that "Blondie" fitted.
I'll look at whether it's possible to fit the Tubus Ti-Airy rack I have. The seat bag is good but I'd need more capacity for a light tour. The rack might help or hinder a mudguard solution.
Re: P-38 build
So yesterday I took the rear wheel out to tighten up the spokes and check the trueing. I reconsidered the tight mudguard clearance looking at other guards in my collection, none appeared to offer an improvement, so made the decision to switch to a 28mm Durano. This meant I could properly attach the mudguard bridge to the seat stay bridge for a rigid fixing. I replaced the old bent disc-side mudguard stay with a new one, bending it carefully around the brake arm.
I noticed the rim tape was shifting and making tyre fitting difficult. I replaced the 16mm rim tape with narrow tape which sat better in the narrow central well of the 17mm rim. I fitted the Durano and pumped it to 80 psi.
I decided to replace the 40mm Racer front tyre with a 35mm Kojak to help lower the seat a little more. I had a devil of a job getting the Racer off the Sun CR18 rim snapping a tyre lever in the process, odd. The Kojak went on without much difficulty. Pumped it to 60 psi.
The disc brake was rubbing and I couldn’t cure it by realigning the calliper. So I fitted a disc rotor shim. Tried a 1.0mm one at first which was too much, then changed it to a 0.5mm one.
I did an 8 mile ride today to try out the changes. My first impressions were confirmed, this rides like a handmade steel race bike. The balance and hill climbing are at another level compared to the other ‘bents I’ve owned. I was more comfortable this time with the BB height both when riding and for starting off. I noticed the back of my legs got chilled with my feet raised so much above my backside.
I had a mechanical. The chaintube on the return side of the chain broke free of its fabric holder and tried to disappear into the rear mech. Could have been nasty. I put it back in the holder and it held for the rest of the ride but it needs a solution to be safe. I am thinking of zip tying some inner tube around the chaintube ahead of the fabric holder. Hoping that will stop the tube from being gradually pulled through and out of its holder.
Anyhow, an encouraging ride. I need to think about fixing a rear light and reflector somewhere. A frame pump would be good although the peg position is for a strangely long pump. Will also think about luggage options. I have a Ti-Airy rack if I can splay a leg wide of the disc brake. Or work out a way of attaching soft luggage. I have some ICE side bags and a cunning plan to provide a support for them.
I am also rethinking tyres having settled on narrower tyres. Duranos are fairly harsh and Kojaks are know to be slow.
I noticed the rim tape was shifting and making tyre fitting difficult. I replaced the 16mm rim tape with narrow tape which sat better in the narrow central well of the 17mm rim. I fitted the Durano and pumped it to 80 psi.
I decided to replace the 40mm Racer front tyre with a 35mm Kojak to help lower the seat a little more. I had a devil of a job getting the Racer off the Sun CR18 rim snapping a tyre lever in the process, odd. The Kojak went on without much difficulty. Pumped it to 60 psi.
The disc brake was rubbing and I couldn’t cure it by realigning the calliper. So I fitted a disc rotor shim. Tried a 1.0mm one at first which was too much, then changed it to a 0.5mm one.
I did an 8 mile ride today to try out the changes. My first impressions were confirmed, this rides like a handmade steel race bike. The balance and hill climbing are at another level compared to the other ‘bents I’ve owned. I was more comfortable this time with the BB height both when riding and for starting off. I noticed the back of my legs got chilled with my feet raised so much above my backside.
I had a mechanical. The chaintube on the return side of the chain broke free of its fabric holder and tried to disappear into the rear mech. Could have been nasty. I put it back in the holder and it held for the rest of the ride but it needs a solution to be safe. I am thinking of zip tying some inner tube around the chaintube ahead of the fabric holder. Hoping that will stop the tube from being gradually pulled through and out of its holder.
Anyhow, an encouraging ride. I need to think about fixing a rear light and reflector somewhere. A frame pump would be good although the peg position is for a strangely long pump. Will also think about luggage options. I have a Ti-Airy rack if I can splay a leg wide of the disc brake. Or work out a way of attaching soft luggage. I have some ICE side bags and a cunning plan to provide a support for them.
I am also rethinking tyres having settled on narrower tyres. Duranos are fairly harsh and Kojaks are know to be slow.
Re: P-38 build
For the rack you just need a 10mm spacer on the disc rotor side, and a longer bolt. The seat stays are further apart than what you’ll get on an upright bike. I got the 35mm offset stays from Spa which do the job. You want to cut them down to about 140mm in length else they may interfere with pannier attachment to top rail. This was with the Tubus Vega rack.