Decathlon lightweight tents

[ossie]

Too heavy.

I get the "its only 1 kilo heavier than so and so" but I guess its over what distance / terrain.

Its certainly not a keeper and if you can cut a kilo off your tent weight then you are well on your way to enjoying a long tour rather than suffering a long tour.

Get a lightweight tent/mat and sleeping bag and you will have a distinct advantage not only in relation to your progression but also the stress you're putting on back wheel / spokes and the rest. Plenty of 2 person tents under 2kg and you'll appreciate it on the hills.

[pete75]

The second one looks ok, but as per all the "cheap" tents the fabric is a gamble there: is likely to be ok but maybe not the most durable, even is they are using 40 & 75D fabrics. Being PU coated there may be some degradation after some years? Still, it would have done a good job in the meantime.

It's silicone coated on the outside and PU on the inside. Perhaps not quite as good as silicone both sides but it does allow it to have taped seams so they won't leak. It'd also satisfy Ossie because it's under 2kg.

[Warin61]

some people here would say it is it heavy - my tarp tent just weighs 1.2kg

https://www.intentsoutdoors.co.nz/colle ... ouble-wall
1.06 double walled tent with pole. Needs pegging out. $nz 158 + shipping

[mercalia]

some people here would say it is it heavy - my tarp tent just weighs 1.2kg

https://www.intentsoutdoors.co.nz/colle ... ouble-wall
1.06 double walled tent with pole. Needs pegging out. $nz 158 + shipping

pole is in the wrong place - would have been better to have an A pole and a little more weight.

or maybr half an A pole with a seam being the other one you peg tight to the ground

that tent it is impossible to turn over in your sleep and not knock the pole over?

[pjclinch]

some people here would say it is it heavy - my tarp tent just weighs 1.2kg

https://www.intentsoutdoors.co.nz/colle ... ouble-wall
1.06 double walled tent with pole. Needs pegging out. $nz 158 + shipping

pole is in the wrong place - would have been better to have an A pole and a little more weight.

or maybr half an A pole with a seam being the other one you peg tight to the ground

that tent it is impossible to turn over in your sleep and not knock the pole over?

Looks like it's designed with a trekking pole in mind, so an A isn't really part of the game plan. That's not much use to cyclists, of course, and you'll need the optional pole, but it does explain why it's the way it is. It looks like a pretty clear case of swapping weight for convenience in use: you choose, you lose.

You'd only knock the tent over if there was no pegging tension, otherwise tipi designs would regularly be collapsing.

Pete.

[mercalia]

https://www.intentsoutdoors.co.nz/colle ... ouble-wall
1.06 double walled tent with pole. Needs pegging out. $nz 158 + shipping

pole is in the wrong place - would have been better to have an A pole and a little more weight.

or maybr half an A pole with a seam being the other one you peg tight to the ground

that tent it is impossible to turn over in your sleep and not knock the pole over?

Looks like it's designed with a trekking pole in mind, so an A isn't really part of the game plan. That's not much use to cyclists, of course, and you'll need the optional pole, but it does explain why it's the way it is. It looks like a pretty clear case of swapping weight for convenience in use: you choose, you lose.

You'd only knock the tent over if there was no pegging tension, otherwise tipi designs would regularly be collapsing.

Pete.

well it would be interesting to try angling the single pole and using the cover (seam ) as another virtual pole to make up the A? My tarp tent is a "ridge" tent that uses the seam across the top as the ridge that is fine if tensioned at the ends.

[Warin61]

well it would be interesting to try angling the single pole and using the cover (seam ) as another virtual pole to make up the A?

1) The single pole is outside the tent bathtub floor, knocking it over would be difficult.

2) The tent provides tension in at least 4 directions to maintain the single pole top in a near upright stance. Additionally the tent pole is held in the peak of the tent making the pole top movement difficult.
3) The poles bottom is in contact with the ground - you have to make that slip to topple the tent. Given the vectored tension of the tent through the pole there will be a lot of force on the pole bottom thus increasing its friction to the ground.

The higher the tent tension the more firmly the pole will be held in place, both top and bottom.

I would not like to use this tent in snow, but then it is probably not built for it.

[hamster]

https://www.intentsoutdoors.co.nz/collections/1-2-person-tents/products/ultrapack-1-plus-inner-tent-approx-900g-double-wall
1.06 double walled tent with pole. Needs pegging out. $nz 158 + shipping

Uses the flysheet material as the inner's groundsheet...definitely needs a groundsheet protector. Add up the extras to make a proper tent and the accounting game's number of 900g vanishes.

[pjclinch]

Uses the flysheet material as the inner's groundsheet...definitely needs a groundsheet protector. Add up the extras to make a proper tent and the accounting game's number of 900g vanishes.

This isn't an unheard of tactic: there was a special version of the Macpac Mirolight with this, and the Hille Rajd shelter uses it too, and I imagine other weight-weenie solutions. Not something I'd choose, but for light use on ground you know will be flat and grassy it should be okay. The thought of a sheer sheet of silnylon on anything with any sort of slope is... amusing, as long as it isn't me waking up every few minutes wedged in to the downhill-end.

While the fabric is very strong in terms of tear strength it won't be so good against abrasion, and I'd concur that's not so clever in a groundsheet.

Pete.

[Gattonero]

https://www.intentsoutdoors.co.nz/collections/1-2-person-tents/products/ultrapack-1-plus-inner-tent-approx-900g-double-wall
1.06 double walled tent with pole. Needs pegging out. $nz 158 + shipping

Uses the flysheet material as the inner's groundsheet...definitely needs a groundsheet protector. Add up the extras to make a proper tent and the accounting game's number of 900g vanishes.

Horses for courses: the one looking for decades and ease of use out of the most lightweight stuff, is mistaken.
That tarp-tent, or big-bivy, has a footprint of 2sqm or less. The typical house-wrap Tyvek material weights 45gr/sqm so you are looking at a mere 90gr for a groundsheet made with this material.
Or make it easier: common available 2oz PU coated nylon fabric sells for about £5-7/mt, so with £10-14 you can have a very durable and very waterproof groundsheet that weights less than 150gr.
If willing to go extreme, the "seasonal glazing" Mylar film weights something like 25gr/sqm, so you have a groundsheet that weights about 50gr and as big as a 700x25 inner tube. Has to be said that this material is strong when in one piece, but when a single cut is put in tension will rip it all along; on the other hand, it can be patched permanently and to full strength with common gaffer-tape.

[Gattonero]

...

I would not like to use this tent in snow, but then it is probably not built for it.

it's certainly not a 4-season tent

[Gattonero]

some people here would say it is it heavy - my tarp tent just weighs 1.2kg

https://www.intentsoutdoors.co.nz/colle ... ouble-wall
1.06 double walled tent with pole. Needs pegging out. $nz 158 + shipping

The use of 15 (fifteen!) pegs tells me that is not a good product. You will be severely limited in camping when you fin hard ground or many stones under the soil.
Once you put on the scales the pegs and pole, you may have less weight with other tents that may actually be cheaper

[Warin61]

The use of 15 (fifteen!) pegs tells me that is not a good product. You will be severely limited in camping when you fin hard ground or many stones under the soil.
Once you put on the scales the pegs and pole, you may have less weight with other tents that may actually be cheaper

The weight includes the pegs + pole + rope + etc...
Pegs .. 15 ... probably includes a spare? And the rope is probably longer than needed too. I am certain that I could peg it out with less pegs than 'normally' used. For example the peg loops used on the inner could have rope to extend then to the pegs used by the outer fly in some locations...

It is a cheap light weight tent... if that is not what you want ... look elsewhere.

[pjclinch]

The use of 15 (fifteen!) pegs tells me that is not a good product. You will be severely limited in camping when you fin hard ground or many stones under the soil.

Here is a Kaitum 3, with one of it's 18 (eighteen!) pegging possibilities in use as he soil was a couple of centimetres over a shingle beach. Pegs not mush use that day...



My Spacepacker was my only tent for over a decade, and ended up on all sorts of pitches including rocky skerries in Norway with barely any soil to speak of. Always got it pitched. That has 14 (fourteen!) external pegging points, plus another 4 for the inner.

Kaitum and Keron GTs have 22 pegging points including guys. I don't think there's much traction for the idea that they're not good products! None of these tents are self-supporting.

Pete.

[MartinBrice]

i bought a hilleberg soulo because it is free-standing and sometimes you need to put up a tent on concrete or inside a shed. it's beautifully designed with massive attention to detail and strong zip, good ventilation and strength where it is needed. can withstand very bad weather. i know this. Retails at £600. You get what you pay for.