pop can stove. how to.

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nick12
Posts: 274
Joined: 26 Sep 2017, 9:10pm
Location: Skipton

pop can stove. how to.

Post by nick12 »

Today i thought i'd try the trangia in the cold weather to see how it would cope. Poured enough in to make a brew plus a bit to make sure. It took a few seconds for the meths to take and it seemed to be struggling to prime and get a constant flame without puckering. I lit one of my pop can stoves which primed within seconds and put the kettle on that and my brew was ready before the flame on the trangia was truly stable. The trangia did burn for quite a While though which warmed me up. On getting home i made a new pop can stove out of a can i picked up at the size of the road.
First thing i do is cut the top out. This can be done with a knife or first aid scissors in the field but a tin opener makes a smooth neat job.
Next you need to cut the bottom of the can off at 20 mm up or so i use 10 x 2p coins taped together and using a stanley blade score the can by turning the can around.
Next you need to score the can on the top section by turning the can upsidedown and score again around the can but the top section needs to be 40mm or 20 x 2p coins. As you have probably worked out the top section is twice the bottom section.
For photos i used a sharpie so the line is visible.
Next you need to cut the two sections out of the pop can. I use a pair of small scissors from my first aid kit. Clean and dry the two sections as sugary residue can block the jets later and smoke.
Next step is to cut fins in the top section. The cans diameter is about 212 mm and ideally the fins need to be about the same size. I try to make them about 11 mm but it doesnt seem to matter aslong as there all equalish. I do between 14 and 20 fins ussually by the rack of the eye. The fins need to be cut perpendicular and as far as the bend in the can. The easiest way to do this is with the nail scissors and to look how far you cut on the inside of the can and stop at the point of the bend. This is critical and if the stove doesnt burn even all the way around usually this is the problem.
After cutting the fins they need manipulating slightlybendind them a bit at a time so that the fins underlap/ overlap. Go round a few times and the fins begin to take shape. They all need to be in the same direction.
Then the two sections can be put together. Pushing down till the top section seats on the lip of the base and creates a small chamber between the two layers of can. It may not sit in straight away and want to spring out. A bit more manipulating of the fins required.
A small hole is needed under the top lip of the stove i use a drawing pin for this. This is to release pressure so it doesnt blow the kettle or pan off.
To boil a cup of water pour about 10 ml of meths in to the bowl.i find if the perimiter of the bowl is covered leaving about a 2p size section on the central hump this is about right but you need to experiment and work it out. Wind and temperature affect the amount used .
A wind shield may be needed outdoors. I tend to use my trangia frying pan as a base if cooking in my tent. I recomend you try it out on the draining board at home. Dont over fill the stove if im cooking pasta then i tend to refill if the fire goes out.
The pan / kettle sits directly on the stove so get it central and hold the pan when stiring. To ignite i use a small cooker lighter,when the flames come out of the jets/ between the two sections ofthe stove place the kettle directly on the stove ussually only a few seconds.
I willl try to post. Some step by step photos.
I have stoves that ive used for many months and they get better the more they get used. To keep the jets open turn the two sections which cleans it and improves performance. A 2 litre kettle can be used if required.after the first burning the fins take shape and are set in the permenant position and shape .i tend to boil the kettle and leave it on top for a while to help the shape form. Hope you find this of use. Im sure if you get it right you will love this stove.
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nick12
Posts: 274
Joined: 26 Sep 2017, 9:10pm
Location: Skipton

Re: pop can stove. how to.

Post by nick12 »

Aa few more photos
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nick12
Posts: 274
Joined: 26 Sep 2017, 9:10pm
Location: Skipton

Re: pop can stove. how to.

Post by nick12 »

More photos
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rjb
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Joined: 11 Jan 2007, 10:25am
Location: Somerset (originally 60/70's Plymouth)

Re: pop can stove. how to.

Post by rjb »

Heres one I made earlier. :lol:
Coke can stove.JPG
Coke can stove.JPG (22.17 KiB) Viewed 633 times
At the last count:- Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X3, Raleigh 20 stowaway X2, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840 :D
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nick12
Posts: 274
Joined: 26 Sep 2017, 9:10pm
Location: Skipton

Re: pop can stove. how to.

Post by nick12 »

I have made that type too penny stove which needs the priming pan underneath to vapourize the meths and you need a pan support too. In my tests i found that it was not as Economical on fuel but a good little stove.
SA_SA_SA
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Joined: 31 Oct 2009, 1:46pm

Re: pop can stove. how to.

Post by SA_SA_SA »

------------You may not use this post in Cycle or other magazine ------ 8)
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Gattonero
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Location: London

Re: pop can stove. how to.

Post by Gattonero »

I prefer the "jet" type stoves, I usually make them with a double layer on the outer held so they're more robust and will better retain the heat. I also make a series of horizontal marks in the inner layer that makes the central well, it helps a lot in measuring the fuel once you get to know how much you've used on a given meal.

For the pot-stand I make my own ones, that are stand and windshield in one. Light, robust, adaptable to a degree of sizes, and thermally efficient. What more can you want? :D
2019-02-23_07-44-06.jpg

Btw, the picture is deceiving, the windshield/stand has a conical shape
It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best,
since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.
Thus you remember them as they actually are...
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