Saddle height for knee problems
Re: Saddle height for knee problems
Same as SpannerGeek; I rode through 2014 experiencing more and more knee problems. When I noticed that my seatpost had slipped, and I raised the saddle by an inch, the knee problems went overnight.
Re: Saddle height for knee problems
hamster wrote:robing wrote:105.48 per cent - saddle to pedal axle divided by inseam expressed as a percentage. This is considerably less than the recommended 109 per cent.
I am with 531colin on this.It's impossible to measure length to the level you suggest: 0.1% is less than 1mm, the thickness of your sock.
Magic formulae don't consider the relative length of thigh to shin, foot length or the angle of the pelvis. Definitely it's worth experimenting if you are uncomfortable.
There seems to be no decent justification for mythology like KOPS - it's probably a good starting point, but no more.
It's not the .48 per cent that's important (let's call it 105.5%) , it's the fact that for me it was much lower than the oft quoted 109%.
Re: Saddle height for knee problems
Richard D wrote:Same as SpannerGeek; I rode through 2014 experiencing more and more knee problems. When I noticed that my seatpost had slipped, and I raised the saddle by an inch, the knee problems went overnight.
For me it was the complete opposite. I got more and more knee problems, and lowering slightly made all the difference. I think it goes to show there is no one-size-fits-all for saddle height.
Re: Saddle height for knee problems
I think there is a "one size fits all" for saddle height, but i don't think its any magic number ratio.
I think the saddle needs to be low enough so that you pedal smoothly through the bottom at high cadence on your worst day when you are stiff and tired, without pointing your toes or dipping your hips..
It needs to be high enough so that you can slide back a bit and get your maximum comfortable knee extension for a short period of pushing hard(er) at low cadence. (forcing the gear)
It needs to be far enough back so that you can get your heels down, and so that you are balanced on the bike without excess weight on your hands.
Whether you need to put your saddle up or down to achieve this rather depends on where you start.
There is a thread here http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=103535 where at least we have a video to look at, which might prompt a discussion of how different people view the OP's position.
I think the saddle needs to be low enough so that you pedal smoothly through the bottom at high cadence on your worst day when you are stiff and tired, without pointing your toes or dipping your hips..
It needs to be high enough so that you can slide back a bit and get your maximum comfortable knee extension for a short period of pushing hard(er) at low cadence. (forcing the gear)
It needs to be far enough back so that you can get your heels down, and so that you are balanced on the bike without excess weight on your hands.
Whether you need to put your saddle up or down to achieve this rather depends on where you start.
There is a thread here http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=103535 where at least we have a video to look at, which might prompt a discussion of how different people view the OP's position.
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/