9 speed chorus ergo levers

[pq]

One of my little projects at the moment is to put drop bars on my newly acquired tandem, and as usual, I want to use as much stuff as possible from my spares box.

I have some hardly used Chorus 9 speed ergo levers with a matching triple rear mech, and cassettes I can space accordingly, so that seems like the obvious solution. Two things though:

1. Will the LH lever work with a triple (road) shimano front mech? I think it will but I want to make sure before I start.
2. I'd rather keep the existing Shimano rear mech so that I can use a bigger cassette but I'm struggling to make sense of the shimergo stuff. It's currently a 7 speed set-up but I could respace as necessary. (yes I know there won't be space for a full width 8 or 9 cassette - I'l just space accordingly and omit one sprocket). So can I do that or do I need to keep the system entirely Campag?

Thanks as always..

[PH]

I'm running Veloce 9 speed, I don't think campag started meddling with indexed front till well after it'd all gone 10 speed, so yes to the Shimano triple, which is what I have. For the rear, I don't think there is a suitable shimergo option, I'm using a shiftmate to run Shimano 9 speed mech and cassette, works perfectly. I was pushed in this direction when I broke the campag rear mech and couldn't find a suitable replacement, I'd have probably stuck with camag otherwise and continued using the 14 -28 cassette that suited me.

[Mick F]

Yes, your 9sp LH Ergo will be fine. There'll be eight clicks in that Ergo, same (but mirror image) as your RH Ergo. Plenty of pull range.

[cycleruk]

What year are your Ergos ?
Pre 2000 will need some sort of contrivance to match a Shimano RD.
2000+ and it should work nicely with a Shimano mech' on 7 speed.
The pull of the newer Campag' 9 speed = 3.0mm per click and the Shimano is 2.9mm per click.
So after 6 clicks there would be 0.6mm error, at most, which isn't worth bothering over.

As others have said the left Ergo should also be O.K.

I have a set of pre-2000 9 speed Veloces and I used those with 8 speed Shimano, but it did need a slight cable clamp mod' to work nicely. (Pre-2000 have a cable pull of 3.2mm per click.)

[mattsccm]

Just how big a cassette are you wanting to run? I use what ever Campag mech is one up (longer) from the shortest with a 32t rear sprocket and a MTB 22/32/42 triple. Gears so low that the granny ring is barely used.

[pq]

I'm pretty sure the levers are 1999. They came with a bike I bought second hand in around 2001, and the frame was made in 1999, so I expect the levers were too. Is there any way of telling whether it's the old or new pull? Would be useful to know.

As for cassette size, I'm using a 14 - 34 at the moment which with a 30 on the front isn't quite low enough. It's hilly around here, and my 5 year old stoker doesn't contribute that much... It would be good to be able to stick with the existing cassette and put a smaller ring on the front. I can't go super-small without replacing the rear RH crank and the front mech, but I'd do that if I had to.

Good to know the front mech will work - there are solutions for the rear mech, it's just a matter of choosing the best one.

[Brucey]

IIRC you can tell if the RD is 'old' or 'new' cable pull by the position of the b tension adjustment. If the RD is a match for the ergos you have your answer. You can do all kinds of mishmashes of systems, BTW.

cheers

[pq]

I've just realised that my original post was misleading. I didn't realise that there are 2 different "pulls" for 9 speed levers. My levers are probably pre 2000, but both the rear mechs I have which I thought were matching will be post 2000. Both are racing triples or similar (one might be a Record).

So it seems that however I do this some bodgery will be required to get the rear mech working because my levers aren't compatible with any of the rear mechs I have. Any thoughts about the most doable bodge?

[cycleruk]

I'm pretty sure the levers are 1999. They came with a bike I bought second hand in around 2001, and the frame was made in 1999, so I expect the levers were too. Is there any way of telling whether it's the old or new pull? Would be useful to know.
Good to know the front mech will work - there are solutions for the rear mech, it's just a matter of choosing the best one.

Old-style Ergo's are blank or have the groupset printed on the front with new-style having "9-speed" printed on the lever.
I got my 9 speed old style to operate an 8 speed Shimano RD by securing the cable fractionally further out under the cable clamp.
The original clamping groove is visible in this pic'. I just filed a new groove but some mech's don't have enough "land" to allow this.
Mine worked quite happily for a good few years

This modification should also work for your 7 speed.
By the way my Ergo's are blank so pre-2000.

[Brucey]

I've just realised that my original post was misleading. I didn't realise that there are 2 different "pulls" for 9 speed levers. My levers are probably pre 2000, but both the rear mechs I have which I thought were matching will be post 2000. Both are racing triples or similar (one might be a Record).

So it seems that however I do this some bodgery will be required to get the rear mech working because my levers aren't compatible with any of the rear mechs I have. Any thoughts about the most doable bodge?

'old' campag 9s ergo + 'new' campag rear mech = ~ 4.75mm/click; a pretty good match for shimano 8s spacing.

You can fit seven sprockets at 8s spacing onto a shimano 7s freehub body, but you will need a spacer to make the cassette tight. Or you could just fit an 8s freehub body and go 8s.

If a shimano 7/8/9s mech is used with 'hubbub' cable routing it will give about 5.0mm per click with those shifters; spot on for shimano 7s or campag 8s

cheers

[pq]

Thanks Brucey, that's very useful - I like solutions which use the parts I already have.

Do you know whether it would also work with a Shimano rear mech? Or could be made to work? That way I can use a bigger cassette. I can space the cassette to 8 or 9, Campag or Shimano because it's a Mavic M10.

It will be difficult to change the freehub. It's a tandem hub which makes the part expensive and it isn't certain it'll fit. I asked about it on here a month or so back and the conclusion I drew (probably with advice from you) was that it wasn't worth the bother for one extra sprocket. I have a huge box of sprockets and spacers so it's never a problem getting the cassette snug.

[pq]

Brucey, sorry, I've just realised you've already answered my question, so as always, thanks for your help, it's much appreciated.

And thanks to everyone else too.