Mudguards, narrow, good quality?

[Mick F]

Off out for a ride shortly, and I'll do some thinking.

35mm will do, just as they have always done, however since having DP front brakes, the clearance isn't as good as it was in the old days. 35mm is the absolute max but it's a good idea if I were to trim the front one a bit where it goes under the brake caliper.

Question:
What are the differences between SKS Blumels and SKS Chromoplastc?

[reohn2]

Off out for a ride shortly, and I'll do some thinking.

35mm will do, just as they have always done, however since having DP front brakes, the clearance isn't as good as it was in the old days. 35mm is the absolute max but it's a good idea if I were to trim the front one a bit where it goes under the brake caliper.

Question:
What are the differences between SKS Blumels and SKS Chromoplastc?

Bleumels are half round,some SKS are square profile,though Longboards are half round.

[CREPELLO]

Off out for a ride shortly, and I'll do some thinking.

35mm will do, just as they have always done, however since having DP front brakes, the clearance isn't as good as it was in the old days. 35mm is the absolute max but it's a good idea if I were to trim the front one a bit where it goes under the brake caliper.

Question:
What are the differences between SKS Blumels and SKS Chromoplastc?

Bleumels are half round,some SKS are square profile,though Longboards are half round.

SKS come with full stainless hardware. Blumels used to, but the last set I bought had zinc coated draw bolts and nuts. They often lack any mudflaps, although I find any short mudflaps very inadequate for keeping crud off the drive train. The Longboards are streets ahead in this respect. The silver Longboards also come with a quite attractive brushed metal finish. Enhance the overall effect with the twin lines picked out in your chosen colour (painted on the underside) and the overall effect is quite satisfying

I have been aware of Nuke's criticism since buying them and have sought to stiffen up the bottom stay/MG interface. The riveted bracket seems too narrow for the guard, allowing it to wobble much more than if it is properly braced. I've also messed about with the mudflap, adding sticky foam tape to augment the plastic rivet (the latest come with a plastic screw, which IMO is rubbish - at least the 'rivet' wouldn't come undone).

In addition, the radius of the front mudguard seems to be slightly smaller than a 700c wheel. This causes the mudflap to be either very close to the tyre, resulting in the inside of the mudflap 'bracket' wearing away, or the MG needs to be positioned further away to prevent this. It's all a bit marginal, and not enough to make me reject the Longboard.

[CREPELLO]

BTW, all SKS mudguards come with a new design of plastic stay end cap, which is rather ugly IMO. To make them look like the old end caps, but still hold in place, it's possible to cut off most of the section that wraps around the mudguard stay bracket, leaving effectively a small 'T' section. This will still prevent the end caps from popping off, without the excess of plastic of the off the shelf design.

They are also more versatile than the original end caps in that because they are longer, it allows for more variation in stay length (concealed in the cap), whilst maintaining a uniform appearance of length.

[Samuel D]

I think the SKS stays look better trimmed to the correct length and without the black plastic end-caps. What good do those caps do?

[CREPELLO]

I think the SKS stays look better trimmed to the correct length and without the black plastic end-caps. What good do those caps do?

As I inferred above, the long end caps allow some leeway in adjustment and the stays could then be set to maximum clearance at any point in the future (different bike, different tyre clearance etc), if required. Trim the stays to the minimum and you lose that option.

[robc02]

however since having DP front brakes, the clearance isn't as good as it was in the old days. 35mm is the absolute max but it's a good idea if I were to trim the front one a bit where it goes under the brake caliper.

I'm having exactly the same experience at the moment. I'm bringing an old frame out of retirement - I bought it, a good 15 years ago, as a training frame with mudguard clearance. I always thought it was a bit tight for that description, but managed OK with Campag sidepull brakes. Now I plan to use DPs the clearance with square profile 'guards is just too tight for my liking. The round section ones will give a bit more, so I'll go and experiment a bit later on.

[Samuel D]

As I inferred above, the long end caps allow some leeway in adjustment and the stays could then be set to maximum clearance at any point in the future (different bike, different tyre clearance etc), if required. Trim the stays to the minimum and you lose that option.

Okay. Can’t deny that!

Your Longboards look pretty decent otherwise. If I’d been aware they existed when I got my Chromoplastics, I may have gone for them instead. The Chromoplastics are indeed a bit short, especially at the front.

[Samuel D]

Question:
What are the differences between SKS Blumels and SKS Chromoplastc?

There is some good information about the precise differences between Chromoplastics and Bluemels in this ‘OEM workbook’ PDF file from SKS. It also includes profiles of the various types and sizes of mudguard, allowing perhaps a better idea of which ones would fit under your brakes, Mick.

[Brucey]

however since having DP front brakes, the clearance isn't as good as it was in the old days. 35mm is the absolute max but it's a good idea if I were to trim the front one a bit where it goes under the brake caliper.

I'm having exactly the same experience at the moment. .....to use DPs the clearance with square profile 'guards is just too tight for my liking. The round section ones will give a bit more, so I'll go and experiment a bit later on.

FWIW I have found that it is often the 'fixed part' of the DP caliper ( the part that carries the pivot for the left arm on the front brake) is the part that fouls the mudguard. It is usually possible to alter the clearance by adjusting the centring screw, then repositioning the caliper and brake blocks to suit. However if it is the RH arm that fouls the mudguard, there isn't so much you can do about that.

BTW any metal mudguard can be reshaped (rather than trimmed) where it goes under the fork crown and often this is a better arrangement because the mudguard retains its full strength rather better.

cheers

[kylecycler]

Your Longboards look pretty decent otherwise. If I’d been aware they existed when I got my Chromoplastics, I may have gone for them instead. The Chromoplastics are indeed a bit short, especially at the front.

Vantage made excellent mudflaps out of this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F ... 1938025031

viewtopic.php?p=863735#p863735

I also remember reohn2 using an old truck inner tube if you could source one - he used it to replace his Longboards' mudflaps because it was more flexible; the Longboard mudflaps tended to slap against the tyre or even fold under.

I often wonder if some mudguard manufacturers shy away from fitting effective front mudguards (either longer or with a flap) in case a rider clips a toe and, especially with clipless pedals, falls off and then sues the manufacturer.

[Mick F]

Thanks again guys.
All wonderful information!
I came back after a 32mile ride into the hills. Excellent ride in the autumn sunshine.

Sounds like I need Blumels half round ........... or similar.

This afternoon, I've been fettling with the existing SKS Chromoplastics and chopped off the front.
By doing this, the dog can see the rabbit.

Here's a few shots. Bike upside down clamped in the workstand.
Note that my mudguards are held by Allen bolts under the fork crown and under the seatstay bridge. Very neat idea suggested to me by Mercian when I had the frame made.

This is the original arrangement. When the caliper closes, it moves the 'guard. DP brakes make this FAR worse than it used to be.

This is a side view after marking the 'guard and sawing the front bit off.

This is an internal front view with a normal pan head Allen bolt.

Same view but with a button head Allen bolt. This gives the max clearance.

One issue I have, is that my Vittoria Rubino Pro Slicks are taller than my usual Pro Treaded and the clearance is now critical. I always though that I could go up to 25mm tyres and still retain the ability to fit mudguards, but now I'm not so sure. Maybe half-round mudguards will be better.

[Mick F]

Question:
What are the differences between SKS Blumels and SKS Chromoplastc?

There is some good information about the precise differences between Chromoplastics and Bluemels in this ‘OEM workbook’ PDF file from SKS. It also includes profiles of the various types and sizes of mudguard, allowing perhaps a better idea of which ones would fit under your brakes, Mick.

Thanks for this.

Some reading for later this evening.

[Mick F]

Question:
What are the differences between SKS Blumels and SKS Chromoplastc?

There is some good information about the precise differences between Chromoplastics and Bluemels in this ‘OEM workbook’ PDF file from SKS. It also includes profiles of the various types and sizes of mudguard, allowing perhaps a better idea of which ones would fit under your brakes, Mick.

Thanks for this.

Some reading for later this evening.

Look at all those colours!
How can you buy these?

[Samuel D]

Likely by ordering in batches of a thousand units!