Cycling UK Forum

I just tried. The metal contact area at the +ve end of the convertor is much smaller than that on a full size D-cell. It fits neatly inside the spring connector on a Duracell lamp without making an electrical contact.

You can probably overcome this by reshaping the end of the spring or inserting a copper washer.

The AA battery is a loose fit in the convertor, you may need to pad it out to stop rattle.

Thanks for the advice re the AA to D convertor.

The EverReady FrontGuard light plus batts weighs a massive 502g but the batts are 306g of that so worth using a lighter battery. I do remember cycle touring with this light and having to take a spare set of batts.

You might wonder why I'm bothering with upgrading the lights. Partly I don't like throwing stuff that works away, partly the lights are very robust (A Halfords front light I have would disintegrate if dropped) and partly it fits the lamp bracket on a couple of bikes. Oddly one of those bikes is a Raleigh ladies bike bought only a few years ago. The wicker basket support includes an old fashioned lamp bracket. So I get lights which are easily swapped between bikes as needed.

For comparison the Halfords front light weighs 192g including 4 AA NiMH batteries but is is really very flimsy

The Duracell locking rear light weighs 474g inc batts of which the batts (2 * D size) are 308g so definitely worth trying the AA to D convertor

No experience of this particular design of convertor but the contact area is good.

Thanks for the link. My other lights use AA or AAA and rechargeable D batts are quite expensive. Much more costs effective as well as lighter to use as adapter

I have come here to admit my ignorance: at present I have a Pashley Sonnet bicycle circa 2011. Am guessing the hub operated dynamo light is operating a halogen bulb light job. It appears quite bright,but when cycling about wet lit and unlit paths doesn't appear to illuminate said way as brightly as what I would expect(now seeing lighthouse type beams from other cyclist coming towards me) Would the Axa £9.99 jobbie be better than my present light? If so,easy to affix to said set up? Or,would/should I get LED bulb(?)to go into present Halogen(?)bulb. Am concerned about the former having some lead wherein it has to be moderated with some other gizmo that adapts present power,or comes with leads which have to be deciphered with accompanying techno jargon written in micro writing. I want an easy-over fit. If I'm to go out into my garage to get lost for several hours I'm gonna get

Ta

Ah! I already see one of the Axa lights is suitable for only side driven dynamos! Go up a few euros and the other says it operates with hub driven. Nowsabout fitting?... and my other queries? Recommendations?

Thanks

the difference between them is often just having a switch or not.

A cheap LED light will be better than what you have at present for sure (and the thing you might notice most of all is the output at low speeds) but you can get better lights yet if you spend more for sure.

cheers

My Brompton has the AXA bottle dynamo and I changed the front light from a Basta 425 Halogen to a B&M LED with standlight. Works fine. Much brighter and it doesn't go out when you stop. Looking at the old halogen, a NL412 dynamo LED bulb from Reflectalite looks like the right one. However, you'd have to read all the guidance on dynamo bulbs.

The big advantage of even the cheapest modern LED lights is that they flash. For this reason I use dynamo LED lights with standlights plus front & rear flashing lights on my Brompton (handlebar & seat post mounted) and on my other two bikes (1982 Dawes Galaxy & a modern Raleigh 3 speed) I'll use the EverReady & Duracell vintage lights with LED bulbs plus front & rear flashers. The big advantage of the vintage lights is that they fit the light bracket on the front fork and the rear ones can be easily fitted to the rack rather than using the seat post which is not available due to saddlebags, coats, not enough seat post exposed etc etc.

One of the things I find very frustrating about modern lights is the way most of them have to be handlebar and seat post mounted. On my Dawes & Raleigh, this doesn't work.

If you're cycling at night where there are no street lights, something I rarely do, I'd look at some of the impressive very bright modern lights.

Style is important for that Pashly bike, and if you want to stay in character, you have two options. The first is a led bulb from reflectalite, and it should be a no brainer if you read carefully which model you need, and maybe write to the man (he is very helpful). It will be rather better than what you have, but not anywhere near what is possible these days. The alternative is to use the retro style led model from B&M: http://www.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-sche ... assic.html (be careful, they still do a halogen model as well, which may be what you have now). The B&M Classic will be brighter than what you have now, but it is still not great. I bought one for my son's retro bike, and I am a bit disappointed - but it is in style. Good to be seen on well lit roads, but not good enough on e.g. an unlit towpath. If you want a really good light, get the B&M Cyo Premium (in silver for style) or even better the new IQ-X: http://www.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-sche ... -iq-x.html It is very bright, has a superbly even and wide beam pattern, and does not blind oncoming trafic. Buy them from Germany or from Rose.

I did get the suggested AA to D convertors for the lights and they work fine with the old lights + LED bulbs. A big differnce to the weight as well. Two D cells weighs 302g but two AA + convertors weigh 104g. Rechargeable AA cells are much easier to find and cheaper than D versions plus my other lights use them. Now I just have to use up the old D batteries.

Sorry to hijack this thread, couldn't see an answer elsewhere. My SON edelux original needs a new bulb. I run it with an incorporated Racktime Rear Light. What do I need to buy? Can I buy a LED one? Cheers!

Do you mean an E6 headlight for halogen bulbs?

Oh sorry this is a Schmidt Edelux I powered by a SON hub and the light now runs very dim indeed.

"The Edelux does not contain any parts that need maintenance. Do not try to open the headlight! You might damage sealing, screwed connections and electrical insulation"
https://nabendynamo.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Edelux-EN-2012.pdf

Are you prepared to DIY knowing that?

How do you know that the problem is in the lamp rather than the dynamo?

Jonathan

The rear light is fine and bright. It might be the polarity connect ors and I could try to reset those?