Raleigh steering lock

[Colin Stanley]

Grateful if someone could please give me a steer as to how the lock barrel can be removed from the fork crown on this 1983 bike. I just don't want to damage the lock or crown.
Probably no way of getting a replacement, but if I can strip the lock down I could make up a new key.

[Mick F]

Hi Colin.

Sorry, dunno.

But I just been having a cuppa and a think, and trying to think what I'd do.

How about stripping the forks down of all the stuff and removing the forks completely from the bike? Maybe during the operation it may become obvious. Perhaps there's a locating pin underneath.

Don't forget that the lock was put in, therefore it can be taken out.

Good luck. I will follow your progress with interest!

[DaveP]

How about just finding a local locksmith? If you want a key anyway... ?
I know they're supposed to be expensive, but part of that covers coming to yours. If you could strip out the fork and take it in things might not be so bad.

BTW I suspect Mick is correct about the pin/rivet. I had a very similiar arrangement on a motorbike once, and that had a rivet head showing underneath. FWIW I never used it after someone showed me how to break them - a hefty boot to the front tyre was all it took

[Colin Stanley]

Thanks for your interest and advice you guys.
The barrel is held by a screw as in the pic. Just had to prise out the thin trim cup closure thingy opposite the lock.
Haven't hand time yet to remove the forks, which will have to wait until next week. Having removed the screw, the barrel is still held in place by the detent that goes into the lower head tube lug. There must be a retaining clip which can only be accessed with the forks out.
Can't find any ref for this on the www.
Anyway, it's a bit different from Campag queries!

[Mick F]

Campag?

Who said Campag?

[hubgearfreak]

i'd agree with dave.

a locksmith made me a key for a car door lock one time that i removed and took to him

it was a fiver, i think

nice to see a classic mass produced bike, most of the old stuff here is highend stuff...i had one very similar that i gave to a friend and it had it's own unique solidity and comfort that's not there on other bikes, but the brakes were next to useless

[Colin Stanley]

If I can get the barrel out I will see if a locksmith can make a key.

Yes, I've just got the bike for shopping (yesterday, she carried a 12.5 kg sack of potatoes back from the farm shop, something I can't do on my newly renovated road bike!).
Never too keen to leave my Campag equiped bikes locked up outside shops.
Sorry to mention that 'C' word again Mick.

Every since the CTC mag had a write up on Going Dutch last year, I've been looking out for a UK variant. Found this Raleigh Superbe 21 inch ladies bike the other week. It has a full chain case and curved top tube so looks Dutch(ish).
She's a heavyweight, but in lovely condition, just wants a tidy up. The Sturmey Archer 3 speed AG case has 83 11 stamped on it. So I guess it is an early 1984 bike.
You are right about the brakes. Stainless steel rims with what looks like leather inserts in the rubber brake blocks. I've cleaned the rims with meths, and taken a crosscut saw blade to the leather but she still stops like a cross channel ferry. Would Kool Stop blocks be any better? Except they are designed for ally and or ceramic coated rims.
Wouldn't like to descend Alpe d'Huez on her. There again, wouldn't like to ride up on her either.

[hubgearfreak]

you're right, for a trip to the shop they're ideal, and invisible to thieves

an AG hub? that's the worlds most reliable gear mechanism and a dynohub... does it still power the lights as well? sounds like the perfect pub bike if it has working built in lights

as for the brakes, you simply have to be more observant, and know when to stop long before you do

the other options are to get alloy rims and new calipers
or fit some sort of hub brake in the front

sadly, both these options are expensive and time consuming

[thirdcrank]

Colin S

Bike brakes are just one more thing that in the good old days were rubbish. I do not think anything you do will make that much difference. Modern bike brakes are something we must thank the Japanese for.

[appolo]

Colin, the leather strip in the brake blocks was supposedly to aid in wet weather braking,i.e. the leather absorbed the water. Eventually...

You can get blocks with some sort of grit in them. They look like fine grade wet and dry sandpaper. (can't remember the name,but good old Sheldon' will know). These do work but they also wear the rims out quicker.

I found the short Fibrax blocks (red in colour) to be the best on steel rims.But whatever you do, stopping will be a leisurely process!

[Colin Stanley]

an AG hub? that's the worlds most reliable gear mechanism and a dynohub... does it still power the lights as well? sounds like the perfect pub bike if it has working built in lights

Yes, the lights are working after I removed the rear bulb and screwed it back in again!
Will hang onto the stainless rims as I don't want to spend too much on her (I have bought new tyres and tubes.)
The gearing is 46 x 19, so was thinking of getting a 21 just to lower the ratios a bit. It seems strange using rubber faced pedals again as you can't pull on the upstroke

[Shaftdrive]

Hello all,
This is a question that often crops up.
In my experience and I have several vintage bicycles with fork locks this later and one of the last models of Raleigh to be fitted with a fork lock is that the lock is totally different from earlier models.
Earlier models have a single sided wafer lock made by Union and will have the key number stamped on the outside of the lock or when taken apart on the inner barrel.
All fork locks require the lock to be turned to remove the locking plunger that engages with the three hole locking plate on the frame in order for the barrel to be removed.
Union locks are quite easy to pick being single sided and fairly basic if the key number is not stamped on the outside of the lock.
The later locks are much more difficult.
They are made by Lowe and Fletcher, a British company and are double sided wafer locks.
Most definitely this lock will need the services of a locksmith and an experienced one.
So, if you would like a key for a later Raleigh. Remove the fork from the bicycle. Flush the lock with penetrating oil until it runs clean, then take it to an experienced locksmith.
In my case this cost £15 for the lock to be picked a key to be cut and the whole thing handed back to me fully working.
I hope this helps unravel the mystery of fork locks.

[Brucey]

there are two generations of lock; old ones (Wilmot-Union-Breeden, which take a single-sided Key with the prefix NGN in the key code) or the later one which uses a more symmetric key with serrations down both sides; IIRC the later lock barrel is the same as that used in some cars in the late 1960s/early 1970s. The NGN series keys are also flat on one side; the later keys have grooves down both sides

The lock barrel is held in the fork by two things

1) a screw which is accessible on the RHS and
2) the fact that it is a lock

IIRC the lock barrel will only come out if the screw is removed and you have the key for it; I think it is obstructed (from sliding lengthwise as well as rotating) if the leaves in the lock are not drawn flush with barrel. If you pry out the cap on the RHS of the fork crown, you can access the screw.

There are only 50 different NGN keys (at one time Raleigh dealers might have a bunch with all fifty on it) and a comparable number of the later type. In the grand scheme of things these locks are not that difficult to pick (I've taught myself how to pick this type of lock, and made tools to do it with).

Some Raleigh-branded Rudges, Sunbeams etc had the option of a steering lock with the barrel built into the frame rather than the fork. These locks were only made during the era of NGN series keys and therefore share the same lock barrel etc and the same fifty different keys.

FWIW I think that once the screw is undone, the barrel is obstructed from lengthwise movement one leaf at a time; this may make it easier to remove the lock barrel if you don't have the key for it.

cheers

[Suffolker]

there are two generations of lock; old ones (Wilmot-Union-Breeden, which take a single-sided Key with the prefix NGN in the key code) or the later one which uses a more symmetric key with serrations down both sides; IIRC the later lock barrel is the same as that used in some cars in the late 1960s/early 1970s. The NGN series keys are also flat on one side; the later keys have grooves down both sides

The lock barrel is held in the fork by two things

1) a screw which is accessible on the RHS and
2) the fact that it is a lock

IIRC the lock barrel will only come out if the screw is removed and you have the key for it; I think it is obstructed (from sliding lengthwise as well as rotating) if the leaves in the lock are not drawn flush with barrel. If you pry out the cap on the RHS of the fork crown, you can access the screw.

There are only 50 different NGN keys (at one time Raleigh dealers might have a bunch with all fifty on it) and a comparable number of the later type. In the grand scheme of things these locks are not that difficult to pick (I've taught myself how to pick this type of lock, and made tools to do it with).

Some Raleigh-branded Rudges, Sunbeams etc had the option of a steering lock with the barrel built into the frame rather than the fork. These locks were only made during the era of NGN series keys and therefore share the same lock barrel etc and the same fifty different keys.

FWIW I think that once the screw is undone, the barrel is obstructed from lengthwise movement one leaf at a time; this may make it easier to remove the lock barrel if you don't have the key for it.

cheers

I have a men's Superbe, which I bought new in about 1983 (in preference to the too-big black police cycle I was offered new at the same shop and time).

The fork lock keys for mine are single face, double edge and marked "L F Telford 95272".

I also have the original instructions, which caution against riding the bicycle with the key in the lock.

[Mick F]

I also have the original instructions, which caution against riding the bicycle with the key in the lock.

Any advice for people riding it with it still locked?