Tyres - General questions I have

[Tangled Metal]

Got first puncture for 1.5 years and first in a year of riding my new PlanetX London Road bike on stock Areo tyres 700x38. Took the whole tyre off to inspect for the penetrating object, not found BTW but no repeat punctures. There was a lot of debris in there like sand and some stones about 2-3mm diameter. How did they get in? Sand through spoke holes perhaps.

So how do you stop debris getting in? Is the rim tape meant to do that as well? BTW the rim tape was moving around, should it be stuck down?

What effect will debris have if it's inside the tyre?

All the above are side questions, the main questions relate to improving the tyres. What is a decent commuting tyre? Almost all the on roads and towpaths but I do go off road a bit too. Need reliable puncture resistance (areo tyres were actually ok for that), large width like 38s or a bit lower and good all weather.

Do I need to replace the rim tape if it's moving when you touch it?

Patch or replace? You get a puncture do you patch it side of road or just replace with a new inner tube? If patch then do you replace it at home later?

Best patches if you do patch that is? I like park's super patch after three glue on patches just wouldn't stick right.

[whoof]

There was a lot of debris in there like sand and some stones about 2-3mm diameter. How did they get in? Sand through spoke holes perhaps.

This is a difficult one as I don't recall ever seeing debris in a rim, water yes debris no. I can't see 2-3 mm stuff getting through spoke holes unless there were no spokes in them! Do you have the nut attached that holds the valve in place.

So how do you stop debris getting in? Is the rim tape meant to do that as well? BTW the rim tape was moving around, should it be stuck down?

The rim tape is there to stop the inner tube puncturing on the spoke holes from the inside. The are a few different types, there's the cloth type which does usually stick to the rim and also a hardish plastic which doesn't. If it's moving about and showing the holes it might be too narrow.

What effect will debris have if it's inside the tyre?

It could cause a puncture if it was sharp.

All the above are side questions, the main questions relate to improving the tyres. What is a decent commuting tyre? Almost all the on roads and towpaths but I do go off road a bit too. Need reliable puncture resistance (areo tyres were actually ok for that), large width like 38s or a bit lower and good all weather.

Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres are very puncture resistance and are available in number of widths including 32 and 35 mm. They can be difficult to get on.

Do I need to replace the rim tape if it's moving when you touch it?

Patch or replace? You get a puncture do you patch it side of road or just replace with a new inner tube? If patch then do you replace it at home later?

If commuting I would replace the inner tube at the side of the road and repair it when I got home.

Best patches if you do patch that is? I like park's super patch after three glue on patches just wouldn't stick right.

I like a feather edge patch like this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/22095199 ... ue&ff13=80

[mjr]

I think some debris gets in somehow and there's not much you can do to stop it. Just empty it out whenever you have the wheel out and tyre off. If it gets bad enough, it could puncture but it seems rare.

I like Schwalbe's less stiff offerings like Delta Cruiser and some Marathons and others like some Vittoria tyres (search for the exact name because both firms have confusing namings) but I've only ever bought narrower Vittorias.

I don't think you need to replace moving rim tape - I usually have the opposite problem with it taut, and sometimes torn over a spoke nipple.

I patch it at the roadside if possible and then it's good until the next puncture, or if conditions are awful or I'm in a rush, I inject sealant and replace it later.

I like Park super patches, Weldtite Red Devils or pretty much any well-known brand of either ready-glued or add-glue patch seem to work. Except on Vredestein tubes. Everything fell off them

[Vorpal]

I think debris mostly comes from riding in the wet or mud. Water carries rubbish with it wherever it goes.

Small particles, such as sand can cause abrasion puntures if left in there long term. they are unlikely to do any harm short term. If you ride every day on a long lasting tyre, It's a good idea to swap tyres front to back every few months. They last longer, and you can clean everything when you do it.

Of the tyres I've tried in the size you are talking about, I like Vittoria Randonneurs best, but I had trouble getting them the last time I needed new tyres for the Tandem, and it currently has Marathon Touring tyres. You could certainly do worse than the Marathon Touring tyres.

I use Continental GP 4 seasons 700 X 28 on my commuter. They are the best gripping slick I've tried, and I'm much happier riding them in rain or potentially frosty conditions than any other tyre I've ever tried. They aren't the most durable tyre out there, but the roll nicely, and I'll happily trade some durability for better traction in adverse conditions.

reohn2 should be along soon to recommend you some Vittoria Hypers

[Vantage]

reohn2 should be along soon to recommend you some Vittoria Hypers

I'd have done the same but Tangled wants reliable pu***ure resistance and despite reohn2's luck with only one pu***ure in 10,000? miles, mine haven't faired so well.
I've gone through that many patches that my usual choice of TipTop Touring pu***ure kits has become a bit pricy and I've settled for a pair of Weldtite kits that were on sale but appear to be just as effective.
The only reason I stick with the Hypers is their ride quality which I believe can't be beaten by any other tyre out there and the fact that they are so easy to get on and off the rim when the fairy does visit.
I'd recommend Schwalbes Landcruisers for their on and offroad abilty (they stick like glue to almost anything) and thorns and glass are rarely a problem for these tyres, but if you don't mind the odd bit of tube patching now and again, the Vittoria Voyager Hypers simply can't be beaten for the same reasons as the Landcruisers. Despite their ime vulnerability to glass and thorns, rough tracks and sharp rocks don't seem to bother the Hypers.

This http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001 ... 1_3&sr=8-3 is the p kit I've been using recently and tbh, despite being about half the price of the Rema Tip Top kits, they're actually quite good.

[Brucey]

Got first puncture for 1.5 years and first in a year of riding my new PlanetX London Road bike on stock Areo tyres 700x38. Took the whole tyre off to inspect for the penetrating object, not found BTW but no repeat punctures. There was a lot of debris in there like sand and some stones about 2-3mm diameter. How did they get in? Sand through spoke holes perhaps.

So how do you stop debris getting in? ....

I'm sure most people are a bit nonplussed as to how it got in to start with. If it was above the rim tape then it probably got in when the tyre was flat. If it was below the rim tape it got in some other way. Through the spokes holes seems incredibly unlikely. Are you by any chance using a presta valve in a rim drilled for Schrader? If so maybe it got in round the valve.

Once punctured, most folk find the offending object, whack a new tube in, then repair the other one at their leisure. In the long run, 'proper' patches (that need rubber solution to make them stick) seem better than self-adhesive (glueless) patches.

I quite like Vittoria Hypers too, but if you are riding a glass-strewn urban jungle, you probably need something more puncture resistant than that.

cheers

[531colin]

Debris gets inside the tyre any time its flat....at all other times there is at least 40psi pressing the tyre bead against the inside of the rim, pressing the tube against the rim tape, and so forth.

[reohn2]

Debris gets inside the tyre any time its flat....at all other times there is at least 40psi pressing the tyre bead against the inside of the rim, pressing the tube against the rim tape, and so forth.

Agreed I've never had a problem with debris inside the tyre unless it's punctured on a mucky road or track

[bikes4two]

This http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001 ... 1_3&sr=8-3 is the p kit I've been using recently and tbh, despite being about half the price of the Rema Tip Top kits, they're actually quite good.

a bit off topic but the amazon Weldtite kit looks remarkably like the Wilko kit a £1.00 - I've been using Wilko's kit for years with no problems on my larger tubes although the patches in the Wilko kit are too large for my 18-25c tubes

[reohn2]

This http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001 ... 1_3&sr=8-3 is the p kit I've been using recently and tbh, despite being about half the price of the Rema Tip Top kits, they're actually quite good.

a bit off topic but the amazon Weldtite kit looks remarkably like the Wilko kit a £1.00 - I've been using Wilko's kit for years with no problems on my larger tubes although the patches in the Wilko kit are too large for my 18-25c tubes

There isn't any difference IMHO.

[Tangled Metal]

Debenhams also sold similar kit before Xmas with a cycling pattern mug. I think there's several branded versions. The only thing I found is one side pulled off the patch but the clear plastic backing never came off. Just stuck to the rubber patch with mine. I ended up getting annoyed with this so stuck a park super patch on and it just seemed to self weld into the inner tube. Best patch I've tried, better than any glue on patch IMHO.

[Brucey]

.... so stuck a park super patch on and it just seemed to self weld into the inner tube. Best patch I've tried, better than any glue on patch IMHO.

First impressions may be misleading; glued patches adhere more and more as time goes on, but glueless patches tend to lose their grip or fail. If you look at a tube with a glueless patch on it after a few months, often you will find the patch lifting over the hole, or starting to crack.

cheers

[mjr]

Nope, not had a good brand self adhesive patch lift or crack once it's gone on properly. I think the weldtite in the attached pic is about six months old.

[Malaconotus]

I've had a Specialized glue on patch fail. It had been on an infrequently used bike on which the tyres had gone completely flat a couple of times, which might have been a reason.

[reohn2]

Debenhams also sold similar kit before Xmas with a cycling pattern mug. I think there's several branded versions. The only thing I found is one side pulled off the patch but the clear plastic backing never came off. Just stuck to the rubber patch with mine. I ended up getting annoyed with this so stuck a park super patch on and it just seemed to self weld into the inner tube. Best patch I've tried, better than any glue on patch IMHO.

The clear cellophane backing should be used to press the patch onto the puncture site to prevent glue/rubber solution sticking to your fingers.
Once the patch is pressed firmly into place,if the glue was applied with a finger tip and allowed to dry first(30 seconds to a 1minute)the patch is set instantly,no need to wait.
You then fold the patch in the middle,the cellophane is precut down the middle and will come of the patch in two halves quite easily,if peeled from the middle.