NBT2 - on the road cassette lock ring remover...

[Erudin]

After doing this test did you either
a) see if you could still remove the lockring with the NBT after having tightened it using it as you described
b) tighten the locknut up with a workshop tool after the test, just to be sure?

If they only work on lockrings that have been "readjusted" they may not be worth carrying.

Yes, just done that. I have confidence that the tool works perfectly with the lockring tightened normally (eg. 30-40Nm) and following the instructions to the letter. I think it is important to note that the skewer should be tight when using the tool.

I would not advise stamping hard on the pedals using this tool to undo an over-tightended/seized lockring, better to wait until workshop tools available.

I also use Finish Line Anti Seize Grease on the lockring threads.

http://www.m-gineering.nl/nbtg.htm

[meic]

Thanks, good to know it works in practice.
I will still be taking the cassette lockring on and off before any major trips, though I normally would be doing that anyway for one reason or another.

[andrew_s]

see if you could still remove the lockring with the NBT after having tightened it using it as you described

If you tighten on the basis of counting clicks, it's not difficult to get a similar tightness out on the road as you get back home using workshop tools.
I generally give it an extra 3 clicks after the first "proper" click.

I have had occasion to use one 3 times in a day, without intervening home visit.

(apologies for the mucky keyboard)

NB
The lockring is tightened by rolling the bike backwards, not forward. Forward just freewheels.

[fastpedaller]

A variation on these tools would be to have a 'handle' which would be a suitable diameter to accept a seatpin around as an additional lever. With a foot on the pedal, and hand (or fellow rider's hand or foot) on seatpin the lockring could be unscrewed enough to overcome the torque, the remainder unscrewed once wheel is removed from frame.

[MikewsMITH2]

I use on of these http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/wheelsets-rims-hubs/hubs/grand-cru-4-bearing-hub.html
and on my other cartridge bearing hub, I have tapped a screw thread on the RH end cap. I can then insert an M6 screw and tap the end cap off from the LHS using the skewer and a stone. In either case, I can then withdraw the freehub and cassette.

Never broken a spoke on one of my wheels though...

[Gattonero]

Anyone tried one of these natty little Dutch devices - available from Spa Cycles in this country .http://www.m-gineering.nl/indexg.htm -click hard to find on their website.

A friend had used the Unior version of it, on a Surly frame. It worked ok, the secret is to give a quick whack on the pedal.

Not much use for me, I cannot recall having ever broken a spoke. Even tho, the next bike for moderate offroad use, will have a hub where the freehub/cassette can be pulled out with no tools (like DT240, King, Hope. etc.), "just beacuse"

[andrew_s]

A variation on these tools would be to have a 'handle' which would be a suitable diameter to accept a seatpin around as an additional lever.

The problem is that your additional lever has to fit through between the axle end and the dropout. That limits it to maybe 1mm thick, and the length to 6" before you start to twist it.

[fastpedaller]

A variation on these tools would be to have a 'handle' which would be a suitable diameter to accept a seatpin around as an additional lever.

The problem is that your additional lever has to fit through between the axle end and the dropout. That limits it to maybe 1mm thick, and the length to 6" before you start to twist it.

yes - does limit it somewhat!

[Tinnishill]

I have an original Hypercracker which I never had much confidence in, though it also has a built in spoke key. I carry two kevlar emergency spokes as a get me home talisman; they can be used without removing sprockets by threading it through the hole.

I have also an improvised chain whip; a few cm of chain with a few cm of cut off para cord woven through the end and tied off. When it is needed, improvise a handle with a bit of branch out of a hedge, or a bike seat pin, or whatever can be found nearby. If finding a handle proves difficult tie a longer piece of cord out to the rim with a few wraps around rim and tyre to anchor it. Cassette tools need a 26mm spanner, but a wide, narrow, stubby adjustable spanner (mine is an “Engineer TWM-08”) can provide that.

I only carry this lot when feeling pessimistic.

[Samuel D]

Interesting scheme, DavidNichol – though still a bit on the bulky side for me. However, your Engineer TWM-08 looks nifty. Do you know how much it weighs? The 2 mm thick jaws could be used on cone and pedal flats, among other things on a bicycle. Pricey though!

[Tinnishill]

According to the cheap electronic scales in our kitchen, the spanner weighs 80gm.

Another thing that can be done to lock the free hub enough to remove a cassette lock ring with a standard tool is to weave a spare gear or brake cable in and out of the holes in the largest sprocket and through and between the spokes. That would probably kink the cable beyond further use. This trick can also create a fixie out of a wheel with a burst freewheel.