Improving 'long drop' caliper brakes

[3spd]

I have a steel Spa Audax with long drop Shimano brakes and Sora STI levers. I find the brakes very poor, probably coming from an MTB background of V'brakes and discs doesn't help, especially from the hoods.

How do I improve my set up?

[Roadster]

Get yourself some decent brake blocks, like for example the Swissstop Flash Pro Original Black which I favour.

[irc]

Get yourself some decent brake blocks, like for example the Swissstop Flash Pro Original Black which I favour.

+1

The long drop calipers on my Surly Pacer with Swissstop green pads fitted are better than the V brakes on my tourers.

[blackbike]

I had a long drop (73mm max) dual pivot brake on my Galaxy forks which had a very large clearance above the tyre. It wasn't great. In the end I fitted different forks which took a medium drop brake and it works almost as well as the brakes on my road bike.

I don't think long drop brakes can ever be that good as the force they apply to the rim is less because of the laws of mechanics and the flex in the long arms.

[PH]

I had a long drop (73mm max) dual pivot brake on my Galaxy forks which had a very large clearance above the tyre. It wasn't great. In the end I fitted different forks which took a medium drop brake and it works almost as well as the brakes on my road bike.

It's all relative, but I think when most people talk of long drop brakes they mean 57mm, which is probably what you're referring to as a medium, it's what's fitted the the Spa Audax, indeed most traditional Audax bikes.

I like Koolstop Salmon pads on mine, with decent cables I find they are as good as the V brakes (Also with Koolstop pads) when used from the drops. Used from the hoods, they're not quite as good but usually more than adequate.

[Brucey]

I have a steel Spa Audax with long drop Shimano brakes and Sora STI levers. I find the brakes very poor, probably coming from an MTB background of V'brakes and discs doesn't help, especially from the hoods.

How do I improve my set up?

which model sora levers do you have? If they are New Super SLR (NSSLR) type (which nearly all STIs newly launched post 2008 are) they have a longer cable pull than older STIs, and are designed to work best with newer calipers that have a significantly higher MA. However most Audax type calipers are still merrily using the older MA; indeed shimano don't make a medium drop caliper that uses the NSSLR cable pull to best effect; the result is that the typical B-R450/R650 calipers can be pretty wooden when used with NSSLR brake levers.

So the cure is older type brake levers/STIs (how many speeds do you run?) and/or different brake calipers, should the usual things such as

- moving the brake levers so you can operate them more easily
- better cables/cable lube
- better brake blocks

not work.

cheers

[3spd]

Using an 8 speed set up and do have a spare set of bar end shifters but if I was to use separate brakes/shifters I would definitely go to flat bars.

[hodge]

This is a long* drop brake with a good review:

http://road.cc/content/review/115645-tr ... rop-brakes

I've heard good reports from those who've used them too, but have no experience as yet myself. Not cheap but you can pay more (a lot more) for some short reach calipers.

*edit I see up thread that this may actually be thought of as 'medium' reach. TRP specify reach with the 957s as 47-57mm

[PH]

Using an 8 speed set up and do have a spare set of bar end shifters but if I was to use separate brakes/shifters I would definitely go to flat bars.

I think with 8 spd you'll already be using the right lever for the brakes. So what have you tried with pads and cables? Then as Brucey says - maybe adjust your levers to make them easier to use. You could also look at bar position, on a fast downhill I'll be in the drops as this does give me better braking, no good if your bars are not set to be comfortable there.
What brakes are they? I don’t know if there’s much difference between models, the Shimano 650? Work fine for me.

[james01]

Recently I was refettling an old bike and had the opposite problem to the OP, I needed more pull-through. I went through old brake levers in my spares bin and measured the distance between the pivot and the cable nipple holder. I was surprised at the variations in this distance - some of my levers were old no-name relics from scrapped bikes. Anyway, I was able quickly to select big-radius levers which were just right for my needs. So perhaps the OP could try some small-radius levers for a powerful pull, though obviously removing slackness in the system will be vital as well.

[3spd]

Any reason not to use the longer V'brake pads?

What type of kool stops would be recommended?

[CREPELLO]

I must say that I've never heard of the longer V brake blocks working better than the standard road block length. Plus there could be some bodgery involved in getting them to fit the road callipers well.

Any colour Koolstop block should stop you well enough, though the Salmons or dual compound are designed for wet weather riding.

What are the calliper model and what brand of cable casing? Are they well prep'd, clean and lubed. These things can also make a difference. I swear by Goodridge Stainless braided outer casings. They are more rigid, less compressible than regular spiral bound casings.

[3spd]

Cables are Shimano inners n outers.

[keyboardmonkey]

Hi, 3spd.

My bike came with Tekro brake calipers which were poor. I changed them to Shimano BR-R650 (which I understand is the 'long drop' variant of the elderly Shimano Ultegra 6500 group set). There is also a Shimano BR-R451 caliper (presumably a hangover from the old Tiagra 4500 series) which is no doubt inferior to the BR-R650.

So that's why people have been asking for the model of your Shimano calipers. If they are 451/450 then an upgrade option is 650. If your current calipers are already 650 then your options are limited - and potentially even more expensive.

[The utility cyclist]

Standard drop calipers should give you no problem but clearly there is a huge difference in pads, cables I don't think make much difference unless there is a lot of friction with gammy outers/inners and they're gnarly, personally I've never had problems with any brand or unbranded that were in good condition.
clean up rims, fit some decent pads, maybe even nip the pads a bit closer or adjust the brake lever reach