Service SPD Pedals

[Redvee]

Save yerself another quid

HERE

Probably the best SPD pedals ever

I see you £20 and raise you £17

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201664433211

From memory the best I've paid was £15.

[deliquium]

Save yerself another quid

HERE

Probably the best SPD pedals ever

Probably,though cleatless

My latest silver pair last week came Shimano retail boxed including cleats in a sealed bag

[CREPELLO]

How I wish that Shimano would use a better plating on the bindings. Any reason not to use stainless steel? (ah, but then it really would be the perfect SPD pedal and Shimano wouldn't sell nearly as many!)

[Brucey]

I see you £20 and raise you £17

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201664433211

From memory the best I've paid was £15.

those ones don't come with cleats according to the description.

cheers

[Brucey]

How I wish that Shimano would use a better plating on the bindings. Any reason not to use stainless steel? (ah, but then it really would be the perfect SPD pedal and Shimano wouldn't sell nearly as many!)

same reason stainless steel chains are not more popular, I reckon.

IME the bindings can lose their plating through wear, but only corrode on such exposed surfaces if you don't ride your bike enough....

On bikes that live outdoors/see clarty weather, the inside surfaces of the bindings, plus exposed surfaces of tension adjusters and springs can all corrode. My favoured method for dealing with this is to pre-emptively coat these parts with waxoyl. A little heat from a hairdrier or heat gun will let the waxoyl run into all the nooks and corners. Once coated thusly they are usually good for a year or two before it needs re-doing. The waxoyl also helps to keep the jaw pivot lubricated.

Obviously the waxoyl will be stripped out the first time you use a hot/pressure wash on these parts, but cold/non-pressure washing won't hurt it in the same way.

The exposed parts of the pedal spindles can also corrode; however IME the exposed part of the spindle is short in those pedals that use the TL-PD40 tool (eg PD-M515, PD-M520 etc) and if the pedals are serviced regularly there is normally enough lingering grease to keep the spindles from rusting badly. If there isn't, probably your pedals need a service...

However there is a load more spindle showing on many of the more expensive pedals that use a 17mm hexagon to secure the bearings (eg PD-M540 etc) and in these pedals, spindle corrosion is more likely. This makes me tend to use the less expensive pedals on winter-use bikes, since they are less likely to suffer corrosion.

cheers

[reohn2]

Apologies to the forum especially Deliquium and Wiggle.
I bought a pair of M520's for my eldest daughter a couple of weeks ago,and could have sworn it was Wiggle that were selling them without cleats.
Obviously I was wrong

[landsurfer]

Apologies to the forum especially Deliquium and Wiggle.
I bought a pair of M520's for my eldest daughter a couple of weeks ago,and could have sworn it was Wiggle that were selling them without cleats.
Obviously I was wrong

Don't think you are wrong, i've seen them offered with both cleats and without cleats from Wiggle in the past. But the price stays the same >>>>

[reohn2]

Apologies to the forum especially Deliquium and Wiggle.
I bought a pair of M520's for my eldest daughter a couple of weeks ago,and could have sworn it was Wiggle that were selling them without cleats.
Obviously I was wrong

Don't think you are wrong, i've seen them offered with both cleats and without cleats from Wiggle in the past. But the price stays the same >>>>

I think that's also been my experience in the past.

[elPedro666]

I advise that you do them one at a time, which prevents accidentally trying to fit the left axle assembly in the right pedal (which is a very bad thing... ).

I do dearly love good advice that quite clearly comes from bad experience! [emoji23] [emoji106]

I'm a trendy consumer. Just look at my wobbly using hovercraft full of eels.

[reohn2]

I advise that you do them one at a time, which prevents accidentally trying to fit the left axle assembly in the right pedal (which is a very bad thing... ).

I do dearly love good advice that quite clearly comes from bad experience!

And whilst we're on about it,the plastic locknuts that hold the pedal body onto the axle are handed(it's printed on the special tool ),so be careful not to turn them the wrong way when dismantling for service as it'll strip the threads and they won't come from together
Ask me how I know

[CREPELLO]

How I wish that Shimano would use a better plating on the bindings. Any reason not to use stainless steel? (ah, but then it really would be the perfect SPD pedal and Shimano wouldn't sell nearly as many!)

same reason stainless steel chains are not more popular, I reckon.

IME the bindings can lose their plating through wear, but only corrode on such exposed surfaces if you don't ride your bike enough....

Really? This isn't my experience. The plating is pretty thin and the rust seems to bloom all over the binding, not just the contact points. If it were merely at the contact points, I would definitely have to ride my bike more

[reohn2]

Really? This isn't my experience. The plating is pretty thin and the rust seems to bloom all over the binding, not just the contact points. If it were merely at the contact points, I would definitely have to ride my bike more

I've got say that the only rust due to rubbing off of the plating I find is only ever around where the cleats engage,it doesn't seem to spread too far on mine and Mrs R2's pedals.

[landsurfer]

Stainless is usually too soft for this application.... i'm sure there is "hard" stainless out there but it would be so expensive ... but if cost where not the issue ..Titanium ...... mmmm , nice ...

[Brucey]

How I wish that Shimano would use a better plating on the bindings. Any reason not to use stainless steel? (ah, but then it really would be the perfect SPD pedal and Shimano wouldn't sell nearly as many!)

same reason stainless steel chains are not more popular, I reckon.

IME the bindings can lose their plating through wear, but only corrode on such exposed surfaces if you don't ride your bike enough....

Really? This isn't my experience. The plating is pretty thin and the rust seems to bloom all over the binding, not just the contact points. If it were merely at the contact points, I would definitely have to ride my bike more

A I mentioned earlier if you are getting rust on the surfaces where the plating is still intact/not being rubbed all the time, waxoyl is a solution to this. The plating on the insides of the bindings is always going to be a bit thin (it is the nature of the process), but rust there means that the springs are likely rusting too. They can break once they are corroded, so best do something about it.

BTW I think the plating quality is a bit variable; some pedals have chrome that seems to peel more easily than others.

cheers

[landsurfer]

Mine appear to have a matt chrome finish, usually called "Hard Chrome" by motorcycle platers ..( Well the man who does the plating for my motorbikes).. Although, the 520 copies i bought from Decathlon where nickel plated over copper .... which traditionally leads to chrome .... but not in France / Mexico it appears ...