Using Sapim Strong

[Steve]

I'm lacing up a new wheel, not quite my first, but my first with Sapim Strong spokes (drive side). The hub is Shimano LX and despite the countersinking, the spokes don't sit easily with their heads inside the flange, so appear to be at risk of abrasion or worse. Does this need addressing with a drill through the spoke hole, or is it nothing to worry about?

[Brucey]

punch the heads if in you like but IMHO the most important thing is that you stress-relieve the wheel. I don't think you should start trying to drill the flange...

cheers

[531colin]

1) Correct the elbow bend when there is no tension (more bend for "heads in", less bend for "heads out")
2) when tight but not finished, stress-relieve and punch heads......"just the weight" to set the head square to the flange....don't clout it with a one pound hammer

[Steve]

Excellent, thanks. The idea of drilling out came from a certain well known shop in Leeds who built me a wheel about 20 years ago, and said that was how they might do it - though I don't know if they ever did.

[531colin]

Excellent, thanks. The idea of drilling out came from a certain well known shop in Leeds who built me a wheel about 20 years ago, and said that was how they might do it - though I don't know if they ever did.

Terrifying

[Gattonero]

I'm lacing up a new wheel, not quite my first, but my first with Sapim Strong spokes (drive side). The hub is Shimano LX and despite the countersinking, the spokes don't sit easily with their heads inside the flange, so appear to be at risk of abrasion or worse. Does this need addressing with a drill through the spoke hole, or is it nothing to worry about?

The main problem is not the diameter.
Although I'm not sure if Shimano allows 13g on Deore class hubs, they will fit.

The problem you are facing is the lateral force that can rip out the flange if the wheel is overloaded or overtensioned.
And like said above, make sure the spokes are "formed" well on the hub flange (have to bend right after the flange)