Cable Lubrication gadget

[Suffolker]

I think I saw this "Cablelubie" product https://www.cablelubie.com/default.asp on some online review.

Provided it will fit, it looks as if it might be a useful addition for my Sturmey and Shimano IGH cables, but I'm a bit cautious about leaping into installing it; not least because of the need to cut up the cables.

If anyone has experience of it, I'd be interested to hear about it (ease of installation, refilling, efficiency and so forth).

Thanks.

[531colin]

Somebody was showing me these Middleburn cable oilers the other day http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/middleburn-cable-oilers/rp-prod3318?gclid=COC9qbLhntICFa4W0wodd7oGyA&gclsrc=aw.ds
Push the O ring aside and lube.....he liked them. May not be available now, of course.

[Brucey]

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/ravx-luber-x-brake-kit/

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/mpart-inline-gear-cable-adjusters-with-grease-ports-per-pair/

cheers

[Mick F]

Isn't it strange!

My Moulton has a long cable outer to the rear mech and I was wondering how to easily lube the cable. Being a long length, it needs a good free movement to keep the indexing correct. I've noticed recently, that it's a bit sticky (again) and I was wondering if I could cut a hole in the outer to inject some oil.

I know that putting hole in a gear outer is a bad idea, so I was considering posting on here to ask for advice.
Honestly, it was only a couple of days ago that I was thinking this!

Thanks for the links guys!

[MarcusT]

When I read the Chainreaction description and they stated using WD40, I was a little shocked. WD40 is a solvent.
I didn't not know there were actual tools for lubricating. Until now, I have been using silicone spray, with one of those thin tube nozzles. When I replace the cables I spray it through the housing. Silicone dries, and does not harm the plastic housing.

[Mick F]

When I read the Chainreaction description and they stated using WD40, I was a little shocked. WD40 is a solvent.

Yes, but there is oil in there. The solvent evaporates and the oil remains ......... but it's thin oil.
Dunno if it's the correct thing for cables, but I suppose if you do it weekly or monthly, what the heck?

[Grarea]

This sounds like I might have to look into this.
I was just looking at the routing on mine today, it goes through the frame and I was toying with taking it out and having it tied to the outside
wondering if I could make them a smoother run.
I was also wondering about how any lube would ever get all the way down.

So, if someone could keep commenting on this thread please every couple of months or something I will then remember
and do something about it when it gets higher on my list.

[Brucey]

WD40 is a solvent....

er, not quite; WD40 contains a solvent. It also contains a lubricant (about 25-30% by volume); an oil. It doesn't seem super thin oil to me BTW, not once the solvent has evaporated.

I agree that some lubricants might soften some cable liners, and that silicone sprays might be less likely to do this, but then again they might not be ideal lubricants either.

If you proactively lubricate your cables then there should only ever be lube in there. However if you reactively lubricate your cables then there is something to be said for using a solvent-bearing spray lube; this allows the cable housing to be flushed and any crud to purged out.

When adding a lube port to the cable, it is as well to imagine where the crud is liable to get in, and where might best allow the lube to penetrate the full length of the housing. In practice this usually means somewhere between one quarter of the way and half way along the cable length from the top end of the housing run. Any higher up and the fresh lube may just come out at the top (although it might work as a barrier to further crud ingress which is half the battle), and any lower down and it won't get to the top end. Needless to say if the lube is to be forced in under pressure, it is important that the lube port fittings make a snug seal with the cable housing, else the lube will just leak out.

cheers

[iow]

does the oil in WD40 stay fluid?
IME, using it as a surface protector for exposed chrome on motorbikes kept in a damp shed, it dries to a soft varnish over the course of a winter.

[Brucey]

in a crevice (or a bearing) it is likely to stay fluid for a long time. A thin layer on a surface will see a lot more air (and moisture) and may well react (oxidise, polymerise etc) over weeks or months and change in appearance. It will also drain away and/or soak into anything that is absorbent (including any dust that lands on the surfaces) whilst it is still fluid.

cheers

[lescargo]

Cable Lube?
Bit of a bodge?
Years ago, when every penny counted and doing post winter overhaul
resorted to doing this when inner wire damaged.
Often strand or three were damaged/broken where nipped in cable clamp.
To re-use the cable I would *unwind the broken strands back to the nipple in the lever
and snip them off.
Then liberal coating oil on wire and re--fix.
You then have a full length oilway!
No methodical, measured tests were ever carried out but I was, you would be wouldn't you,
convinced it was better.
Weakening the wire?
Not enough to threaten reliability.
Probably factor of safety at least two.
Weakest point is at nipple.
Believed it to be worthwhile.

[nigelnightmare]

I Apply silicone grease to the inner cables before fitting and then put some on either end when assembling.

I've found that it lasts for at least a year. Then I strip and repeat.

HTH

[meic]

It looks like that may be what Shimano put in their cables.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... -prod33666

The Precut cables are supposed to have a blob inside already, it is at the end with the writing on, so you should insert the cable from that end.

[Waterworks]

I put the tube nozzle of a can of spray grease into the cable sheath and blast it through before I put the inner cable in.

Its always the bare ends that go first though, so grease in the sheath is not really a problem, its plastic lined so minimal friction.