Bagman support

[Bigdummysteve]

I really need a Carradice Bagman 2, the one with the support struts but sadly they are discontinued. So failing that can anyone suggest some clamp on struts. My ecr has rack mounts so I just need a way of connecting them to the bagman.

[Bowedw]

Just in case you may not be aware, the bagman 2 is made out of hollow steel tube and would probably collapse without the struts. The original bagman, is a solid sprung steel item and is very strong. whether the 2 takes some strain off the seat rails, is another matter. I suppose it is possible to make struts from flat aluminium and use clips intended for mudguard stays on bikes without mudguard eyes, on the bagman. Probably look a bit home made but all depends on you workmanship and how essential you think they are. My bagman 2 is a sports version and only takes a small saddlebag, an expedition model with a large full bag could be a different story. you would have to make sure your saddle is in the correct position unless you work out a way of adjusting the struts.

[PH]

Just in case you may not be aware, the bagman 2 is made out of hollow steel tube and would probably collapse without the struts.

I thought it was aluminium and that they were withdrawn because they were breaking.

[cycleruk]

Possibly get some tube, cut to length, hammer flat the ends and drill holes for fitting.
B&Q sell various tubes that should be suitable.

[Bowedw]

I got my trusty magnet onto both types of bagman supports and very surprised as they do seem to be aluminium. They are of a very strong material , even the 2 version. A good quality sprung alloy or dare I suggest stainless?
Ribble Cycles have Tortec P-clips mudguard brackets, however the smallest diameter is 13mm so would need a sleeve, stays can be from any material but flat alloy probably easiest.

[smuggers]

Yes, they discontinued them because people were using them without the struts. I have one going for sale, including the struts if anybody is interested ? I had it attached to my Super C Saddlebag & was very sturdy.

Regards..

Smuggers

[Gattonero]

I've made a neat modification on a steel Bagman, using common rack struts and their mounts.
Not only it works very well, but it's good looking too.

The strut mounts need to be filed down and smoothened from the edges, to avoid rubbing and wearing the bag. They also need to be shimmed (use steel, not alloy) from 8 down to 6mm IIRC. All stuff that's easy to do.

The eyelet bolts have to go in the Bagman tubing (remove it from the QR or std. mount), then the alloy clamps have the threaded hole facing down and that's where the strut is bolted. Length/angle is adjusted by sliding the eyelet/mount along the "horizontal" part of the Bagman tubing.

[Gattonero]

Forgot to say, the screws that fix the Bagman tubing into the alloy support at the saddle, are 3mm hex and have hard threadlock. Would strongly advise to warm-up the alloy support so to weaken the threalock compound, and use a good 3mm allen key.

[Samuel D]

Clean work, Gattonero.

the screws that fix the Bagman tubing into the alloy support at the saddle, are 3mm hex and have hard threadlock. Would strongly advise to warm-up the alloy support so to weaken the threalock compound, and use a good 3mm allen key.

This is the bit of the Bagman design I don’t understand. Why are these steel and aluminium parts not permanently bonded in the factory?

Some people suggest changing the screws for ones that take a larger hex key. But then maybe you risk stripping the aluminium threads. In any case, the screws don’t completely stop movement of the steel loop.

[Gattonero]

Clean work, Gattonero.

the screws that fix the Bagman tubing into the alloy support at the saddle, are 3mm hex and have hard threadlock. Would strongly advise to warm-up the alloy support so to weaken the threalock compound, and use a good 3mm allen key.

This is the bit of the Bagman design I don’t understand. Why are these steel and aluminium parts not permanently bonded in the factory?

Some people suggest changing the screws for ones that take a larger hex key. But then maybe you risk stripping the aluminium threads. In any case, the screws don’t completely stop movement of the steel loop.

Thanks
Bonding the tubing in the alloy support would make disassembly impossible, and not been strong either.
The tubing is nested in the support via push fit, a recess drilled in the tubing is where the tip of the M5 screws go to stop it from popping out. It's a decent solution that works.
You can replace the bolts (screws is probably a better name) with socket head M5, 15-16mm long IIRC, choose 4mm hex or T25 head so they won't round off easy as the 3mm hex do. No need to tap up to M6, keep the M5 thread and use threadlock with a better screw head.