Coloured Mudguards

[Mick F]

My Moulton has black SKS mudguards, and there's a crack on the front one that I've repaired, but it got me thinking of fitting new ones NOT in black.
Silver plastic would be nice, and shiny alu would be better, but I can't find anything for 20" wheels other than boring black plastic.

I wonder if you can rub the plastic down and then spray-paint them in any colour you want.
Can it be done?
Has anyone done this?

[Brucey]

yes; as mentioned in several other threads, some paints just 'stick every well' to plastic mudguards, because the solvent in the paint will soften the plastic. No need to abrade!

The best hypothesis to date is that it is one of the volatile constituents in the paint (maybe acetone...) that does the business. Some folk suggest using a light spray of suitable solvent (sometimes sold as 'an activator' for plastic painting) before painting, but this isn't always necessary.

If overpainting a light coloured mudguard, no primer is usually required (just an activator if necessary and a colour coat in most instances), but if overpainting a black mudguard with a lighter shade, I'd suggest a primer is used because the colour coat may not 'cover well enough' by itself.

With unknown paints, test for adhesion etc on the inside of the mudguard first.

BTW if you want some stainless mudguards (not too wide), I may be able to sort you out.

cheers

[9494arnold]

Mick

I've sent you a PM re some Alloy 20" Guards.

Re Plastic, I've never painted any but the more recent SKS Type do seem to be made of the same stuff they make the front of cars from these days so should be a simple matter of Prime then Paint with some auto spray (you might even be able to do an udetectable repair with car Body Filler like Isopon P38 or similar). Issues would be getting paint to stay around the mudguard bridges.Perhaps have a try out on a discarded broken one??

[deliquium]

A member of the Moulton Bicycle Club over on Facebook posted a picture of her freshly painted TSR mudguard. See below.

And a screengrab outlining her method and materials. Have since heard from her - and she reports they're still looking brand new

[Mick F]

Brilliant!
I fancy a cream colour that would complement the burgundy paintwork.

I've been thinking about the rivets holding the stays and was wondering about drilling them off, and then re-riveting afterwards.
........... and been fretting about finding suitable alu rivets.

Out riding this morning, I was considering the wet and dry abrasives and primer I would use. The plastic is quite "oily" in feel, so it would need a special primer to adhere properly.

As I said at the beginning, the front mudguard has cracked. I repaired it with superglue and gaffa tape stuck on the inside, but it hasn't held - mainly to do with the "oily" plastic I would think. The mudguard is at present on the kitchen table with Araldite Rapid holding the crack together with an Araldite impregnated patch on the inside, plus a Sellotape splint to support it as it cures.

If this doesn't work, I may have to buy a new pair.

[deliquium]

As I said at the beginning, the front mudguard has cracked.

This damage has been reported before by other Moultoneers.

It's probably/possibly? critical to 'set' the angle of the stainless steel angled front brake bridge bracket so that one doesn't have to force the stays to achieve an acceptable fit? That is - to bend the bracket so the guards naturally follow the wheel radius AND the stays are not inflicting any tension at the brake bridge? Please note question marks.

I'm into 2566 miles on a pair of Moulton specific (expensive - but cheapest at the time from Avon Valley Cyclery - NOT Fudges)) SKS horribly dull and boring black mudguards, without any issues yet - although they're off for the summer cos they look so naff

Talking of modern metal Moulton mudguards - I knew I'd seen some recent photos. Perhaps a prototype? The front vibration might still be a concern or even a no-goer in the acceptable life span?

Again please note question marks

Both images from a foreign far away land

[Mick F]

This damage has been reported before by other Moultoneers.

It's probably/possibly? critical to 'set' the angle of the stainless steel angled front brake bridge bracket so that one doesn't have to force the stays to achieve an acceptable fit? That is - to bend the bracket so the guards naturally follow the wheel radius AND the stays are not inflicting any tension at the brake bridge? Please note question marks.

Nah, not that, I can assure you, though I'm sort of consoled by the fact that others have had the issue too.

I reckon the problem is caused by the lack of a second stay. There's a great deal of vibration with small wheels and hard tyres that the rider doesn't feel ..................... but the mudguards do.

The rear has two stays, but not the front.
Usually, on "normal" bikes, the front mudguard has two stays.

The crack is threequarters across from right to left half way between the bridge and the stays.
I was out in South East Cornwall a few days ago, and was riding along the A387 from Widegates down to Hessenford down a long long fast hill. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@50.39214 ... 378,14.15z
The road surface is rough to say the least, and as I went over a bump, I heard a crack. I gave no real thought to it, but soon after, there was a rattling noise at the front.
Stopping soon after to investigate, I found the crack. I took it very easy from then after.

My new repair seems good, and next time I'm out, I'll give it some wellie to see how it gets on.

[AM7]

Talking of modern metal Moulton mudguards - I knew I'd seen some recent photos. Perhaps a prototype? The front vibration might still be a concern or even a no-goer in the acceptable life span?

The metal mudguards are the new 'official' ones from Moulton - but they're for 17" wheel models like the Moulton 60 shown in the pics. No idea if a 20" version is in the pipeline. IMO the wrap over stays are fugly, but perhaps they make things easier to set up given there's only one tyre choice in 17".

My TSR30 and AM are both grey, so black 'guards look okay on them, and as for my TSR1...

(the front rack is getting plenty of use BTW!)

[Mick F]

Here's a photo of the crack after the Araldite repair and the refitting.

[philvantwo]

You need Krylon spray paint Mick F.

[Brucey]

fwiw I'd suggest that a second bracket and a second set of stays would sort you out Mick; if you choose carefully the second bracket can straddle the crack, thus reinforcing the repair.

cheers

[Mick F]

Yes, Brucey, I was looking at that idea yesterday afternoon, but the run from the mudguard down to the dropout isn't clear due to the suspension linkages. Maybe that's why they aren't fitted.
It would need a Heath Robinson route.

The mudguard is very unsupported, and it flexes alarmingly if you press it sideways.

[Mick F]

PS:
The rear has more fixing points of course.

Front has only two .......... brake and stay.
Rear has four ......... chainstay bridge, brake, and two stays, and is consequently quite stable.

[9494arnold]

Mick

If you look at the raceblades, they have 2 stays, both originate in more or less the same place on the frame then diverge about half way along to go to 2 points on the guard. If you copied that you'd clear the Suspension (I believe)

[Mick F]

Thanks.

I was looking earlier, and looking from above and front.
It would be possible to fit another pair of stays but canted inwards (differently to the original stays) to clear the inner side of the suspension.

I have some stays left over from other mudguards over the years, so it would be a good experiment to see if a neat and tidy route could be found.