Hi All,
I have a 19" hybrid frame that i was thinking of turning into a load lugger/ winter bike. ( N+1 has been denied!)
I have a spare 10 speed cassette and wheel, and front double with associated deraliagers.
The spacing on the frame is 135mm, the wheel is 130mm. Will this work??
Many thanks
Martin
130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
What is the frame material?
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
A new rear axle, a 5mm spacer and a bit of truing or two 2.5mm spacers and no truing.
All could be found in a scrap 135mm rearhub or wheel if such a thing is lying around.
I did it when replacing my old Raleigh frame with a new Long Haul Trucker frame and I now have a dishless rear wheel.
All could be found in a scrap 135mm rearhub or wheel if such a thing is lying around.
I did it when replacing my old Raleigh frame with a new Long Haul Trucker frame and I now have a dishless rear wheel.
Yma o Hyd
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
meic wrote:A new rear axle, a 5mm spacer and a bit of truing or two 2.5mm spacers and no truing.
All could be found in a scrap 135mm rearhub or wheel if such a thing is lying around.
I did it when replacing my old Raleigh frame with a new Long Haul Trucker frame and I now have a dishless rear wheel.
That's it. Replacement axle for 135mm and extra spacers (washers).
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
Hi, the frames material is aluminium.
I had thought about two spacers.
I don't quite understand what you mean by a new rear axel? I would like to run the rear wheel(130) without any messing around with it. I have a redundant rear 135 rear wheel which came with the frame, so I could cannabalise that.( It weighs a ton in comparison to any of your other wheels)
Martin
I had thought about two spacers.
I don't quite understand what you mean by a new rear axel? I would like to run the rear wheel(130) without any messing around with it. I have a redundant rear 135 rear wheel which came with the frame, so I could cannabalise that.( It weighs a ton in comparison to any of your other wheels)
Martin
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
I would not suggest that you try to run a 130mm width wheel in an aluminium frameset that is designed for 135mm wheels; aluminium frames don't take kindly to such treatment.
If the 130 wheel has a conventional style QR hub (with a hollow threaded axle, cones and locknuts etc) then there is normally ~5mm axle protruding from the locknuts. Provided the ~5mm is reasonably generous, you can usually respace the wheel to 135mm without buying a new axle (which will leave you with ~2.5mm axle protrusion each side) but then again it isn't difficult to fit a longer replacement axle (with the same cones but added spacers) either.
If the hub has cartridge bearings it may still be possible to respace the width to ~135mm but it is almost invariably a good deal more involved.
hth
cheers
If the 130 wheel has a conventional style QR hub (with a hollow threaded axle, cones and locknuts etc) then there is normally ~5mm axle protruding from the locknuts. Provided the ~5mm is reasonably generous, you can usually respace the wheel to 135mm without buying a new axle (which will leave you with ~2.5mm axle protrusion each side) but then again it isn't difficult to fit a longer replacement axle (with the same cones but added spacers) either.
If the hub has cartridge bearings it may still be possible to respace the width to ~135mm but it is almost invariably a good deal more involved.
hth
cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
re
The difference in weight between your 135 and 130 wheels without tyre and cassette (so true companion ) is probably a lot less than you think.
As a proportion of total bike weight probably insignificant.
I have a redundant rear 135 rear wheel .....( It weighs a ton in comparison to any of your other wheels)
The difference in weight between your 135 and 130 wheels without tyre and cassette (so true companion ) is probably a lot less than you think.
As a proportion of total bike weight probably insignificant.
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
Hi Brucey,
But I presume it would work? I appreciate that you don't advise it.
The current 135 wheel is a 7 speed freehub, and it is with tyres in comparison to 130 rear wheel with tyres, about 3 times as heavy. Different tyres though. Go 4 seasons Vs top contact ii.
So if I replace the axel ( I see what is meant now) this should work.
I want try to try to use up the spares I have accumulated rather than buy more stuff!
Martin
But I presume it would work? I appreciate that you don't advise it.
The current 135 wheel is a 7 speed freehub, and it is with tyres in comparison to 130 rear wheel with tyres, about 3 times as heavy. Different tyres though. Go 4 seasons Vs top contact ii.
So if I replace the axel ( I see what is meant now) this should work.
I want try to try to use up the spares I have accumulated rather than buy more stuff!
Martin
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
martinn wrote:But I presume it would work?
the frame is quite a lot more likely to break than normal. Respacing wheels is not difficult. If you want to use up your spare parts it helps if you can carry out simple work on them.
Also, weight isn't such a very big deal; I daresay that your 'heavy wheel' could easily be made a lot lighter with a different tyre fitted, too. When I build a bike I don't mind what parts are fitted to start with, just as long as I can try stuff out; you can always change stuff like wheels later on.
cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
what is all this..' N+1 has been denied' by who? who's life is it anyway. If you want it, go and buy it! Life 's too short. 
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
I did this in the opposite direction respacing to 132.5 When I actually measured the frame it was 132 mm. I suspect many frames are the same, so simply forcing it in may mean taking up 7mm not 5. I'd be very uncomfortable doing that. If you have cup and cone hubs, then learning to adjust and grease them is a great skill to have. Well.worth thinking about the axel change in many ways.
Supporter of the A10 corridor cycling campaign serving Royston to Cambridge http://a10corridorcycle.com. Never knew gardening secateurs were an essential part of the on bike tool kit until I took up campaigning.....
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
martinn wrote:....
The current 135 wheel is a 7 speed freehub, and it is with tyres in comparison to 130 rear wheel with tyres, about 3 times as heavy. Different tyres though. Go 4 seasons Vs top contact ii.
So if I replace the axel ( I see what is meant now) this should work.
I want try to try to use up the spares I have accumulated rather than buy more stuff!
Martin
It would help a lot if you would provide brand and model of the hubs, so to see what spares can be reused.
For sure, though most frames leave the factory with +-2mm difference in the frame spacing, to squeeze or stretch an alluminium frame is bad idea. The material is not ductile and on a long-term basis or high stress you may experience cracks or embrittlement around the dropouts. Why taking the risk?
Btw, I doubt one wheel is really "3 times heavier" unless you have an electric motor on it? Also, the width of the rim can play a role according to the type of brakes you have on the frame.
It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best,
since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.
Thus you remember them as they actually are...
since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.
Thus you remember them as they actually are...
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
Hi, the 130 hub is shimano 105 and the other doesn't have any info on it.
I have changed the bearings and cones before, so with instruction! I like to have a go at things like this.
The rim width is different, archetype h plus son, the other is wider, erd 240, c19 width. The frame has v brakes
I am changing from a screw on 7 speed with flat bars ,to tiagra 9 speed SLI with drop bars.
The frame currently is too small for me
Martin
I have changed the bearings and cones before, so with instruction! I like to have a go at things like this.
The rim width is different, archetype h plus son, the other is wider, erd 240, c19 width. The frame has v brakes
I am changing from a screw on 7 speed with flat bars ,to tiagra 9 speed SLI with drop bars.
The frame currently is too small for me
Martin
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
So what's the receiving bike, is it 7 speed?
The Shimano 105 hub can be easily respaced with another Shimano axle, you may have to do a bit of trial&error with the spacers on the Lh/Rh to keep the wheel dished ("in the center") but it's not too difficult.
You could source the 135mm axle (tipically is 146mm long, because has to overlap part of the frame's dropouts thickness) from another Shimano Mtb hub. If you are planning to keep the wheel for long, you could source a complete new hub on sale, this way you get all the spares (QR skewer, axle, ball-bearings, freehub...) for a lot less than buying them in future. Often you can find complete hubs for £20 which is great value if you think that you'll have to pay at least £15 (or more, depending on the models) for the freehub alone
The Shimano 105 hub can be easily respaced with another Shimano axle, you may have to do a bit of trial&error with the spacers on the Lh/Rh to keep the wheel dished ("in the center") but it's not too difficult.
You could source the 135mm axle (tipically is 146mm long, because has to overlap part of the frame's dropouts thickness) from another Shimano Mtb hub. If you are planning to keep the wheel for long, you could source a complete new hub on sale, this way you get all the spares (QR skewer, axle, ball-bearings, freehub...) for a lot less than buying them in future. Often you can find complete hubs for £20 which is great value if you think that you'll have to pay at least £15 (or more, depending on the models) for the freehub alone
It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best,
since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.
Thus you remember them as they actually are...
since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.
Thus you remember them as they actually are...
Re: 130 wheel in a135 rear triangle
When I did it, I took advantage of the opportunity and put all the spacers on one side, which allowed me to re-dish the rim, or more accurately un-dish the rim. Which seemed like a real bonus.
Though there are "worries".
If you do as I did and have it all on one side you end up with the left hand bearings a long way from the dropout, back to exactly the same rear axle threatening situation you had under a freewheel and which the introduction of freehubs eradicated.
If you put it half in half, you move the cassette 2.5mm in from the dropout and the frames original rear derailleur (if it is an old 6/7 speed type) might not be able to reach the whole way over.
Though there are "worries".
If you do as I did and have it all on one side you end up with the left hand bearings a long way from the dropout, back to exactly the same rear axle threatening situation you had under a freewheel and which the introduction of freehubs eradicated.
If you put it half in half, you move the cassette 2.5mm in from the dropout and the frames original rear derailleur (if it is an old 6/7 speed type) might not be able to reach the whole way over.
Yma o Hyd