you do need to be able to move the wheel to accommodate chain wear; a fixed position for the wheel may only be a temporary solution.
BTW some Dutch bikes (e.g. Batavus) use a stainless steel chain tug which goes both sides of the dropout and is made in thinnish (~0.75mm?) material. You might be able to adapt one of those, or make something similar? It is meant for use with Nexus/Alfine hubs (the slot is to accommodate the tab on the shimano NTW) but I think such a thing could be made to fit a rear facing dropout by adding a removable cap over the back of the slot or something.
BTW if you are saying that the freewheel action is a bit draggy (so the pedals want to turn when you are coasting), this isn't uncommon with Rohloffs IME. I believe it to be one of the seals on the RHS dragging slightly. Often it improves if you spin the wheel for a while with the bike laid down on the RHS (because oil may find its way into the seals) or if you add some oil from the outside. Seasoned Rohloff owners may have some other suggestions too.
Brucey wrote:you do need to be able to move the wheel to accommodate chain wear; a fixed position for the wheel may only be a temporary solution.
I was only going to put spacers in at the front, something like monkey nuts. I'm told that the NDS tries to shift forward in the dropout, which seems consistent with what I saw on my second test ride, I would have thought the torque arm should stop that pretty dead, but it did happen. The biggest effect it would have is having the location always just be right (Pre chain wear) when the wheel goes back on instead of faffing about trying to get the tension correct and the wheel straight. Once it wears I'd be back to that, I suppose.
Further to the discussion about leaks and seals, I thought it might be useful to post this extract from a note issued by Thorn Cycles in 2005:
Note #4 - Despite what may be written in the manuals, Rohloff aim to put about 20ml [on average] of oil into the factory-filled hubs. Of this, around 12ml will “permanently” adhere to the numerous internal surfaces, so do not be surprised if you don’t actually manage to drain out much oil!
Rohloff have told me that, at oil change time, the ideal quantity to “re-fill” with is 15ml [they say 25ml in their current literature to make certain that the hubs receive at least 12ml] So if you feel confident that you can accurately measure 15ml, then you will be able to make savings.
Rohloff tell me that there is no advantage to using more oil than this indeed, you will simply make oil drips [through the breather] more numerous, and leaks through the seals more likely.
The internal breather is a hole which vents into the inside of the hollow axle, it is normal to have a very slow seepage of oil from the axle. Please consider that, if oil is slowly oozing out, there is less chance of unwanted fluids seeping in! But please note there may be a significant pressure drop during flights which can cause the hollow axle to fill with oil; this will find its way out via the QR skewer. There is no need for concern because once the hub has been filled with oil, it is then impossible to drain enough oil from the hub to cause a lubrication failure, certainly within the period to the next oil change [5000Km].
As mentioned above, there will always be around 12ml of oil adhering to the surfaces; to remove this oil would require a complete strip down to component parts or repeated rinsing with a solvent, such as toluene. [Not recommended!]
Please be assured that small oil “leaks” are not a problem unless the bike leaks oil onto an expensive carpet... in which case they become a big problem!
And please bear in mind that the seals in the hub are there, principally, to prevent ingress of unwanted matter... which they do superbly; the seals should not leak but an “oil mist” around them is normal (to make a seal that is always 100% effective [in both directions] would significantly increase internal friction!)
That is good to know, I did lose a fair amount (onto a carpet that I don't care at all about), and have bought more oil, but perhaps I'll hold onto it for next time.
InSearchofSunrise wrote:That is good to know, I did lose a fair amount (onto a carpet that I don't care at all about), and have bought more oil, but perhaps I'll hold onto it for next time.
If you do need more oil do a full oil change. Just putting oil in can actually force more oil out passed the seals due to pressure in the hub.
tony_s wrote:Further to the discussion about leaks and seals, I thought it might be useful to post this extract from a note issued by Thorn Cycles in 2005:
......The internal breather is a hole which vents into the inside of the hollow axle....
I knew I'd read that somewhere in a piece from a reputable source. When I mentioned this vent location in a thread here, I was asked to provide a reference source by someone who just plain didn't believe me, and you know what, it doesn't explicitly say about the vent location anywhere on Rohloff's site or indeed in Rohloff's instructions... or if it does, it is very well hidden and I couldn't find it.....
I too noticed recently a rumbling/vibration through the pedals on my old and second hand Rohloff, in the higher generally smoother gears. The chain and sprocket are not worn and the bike hasn't seen a large mileage in the last year. I do run a 42x16 gear so was wondering if the even teeth had given some wear and been put back in out of sycn.
But as it is almost a year since the last one I have just done an oil change. This has solved the vibration straight away.
I did also notice that the pawl springs appear to be missing, Not sure how or why, but I'd have thought they would have appeared when I had that bit open, and I don't remember seeing them. Ordered new ones, so hopefully that will solve the last of the chatter and such. I'll save the oil change for when I get home in a few weeks.
