Freehub a bit too free - not engaging - options

[Brucey]

Sach Neos freehub (I think)



cheers

[531colin]

Looks very familiar. I think thats an "N" on the decal?

[LittleGreyCat]

That looks a very likely candidate right down to the decal.

To answer other points in the thread, the cassette is Shimano 'cos it says that on the end.

The wheel is off the bike and when I hold the non-cassette side of the axle and spin the wheel I can feel a "rumble" which I take to be the bearings in the hub. I am assuming that these are user serviceable but the parts may be "interesting" to find.

However there are a couple of enthusiasts in our local bike club who collect and restore far older bikes so who knows what they might have stashed away.

I did mention I was just going to replace the chain when I started, didn't I?

[531colin]

Neos hub bearings are the "sealed" type, like this...https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p2643/6062RS-Rubber-Sealed-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-6x17x6mm/product_info.html....(that may not be the right number, its the middle of the night)
"Sealed" means "no user serviceable parts inside".....not..."waterproof, dustproof..."
They are easily available, although the hub may have the odd shim to contend with.
I had a couple of pairs of those hubs in use, one pair faultless, one pair has an undersize front axle, so the axle moves within the bearing, and the freehub body has sticky pawls so it "skips" like yours, and un-sticking it became a regular job. I binned that pair.
All in all, I would measure the gap between the frame dropouts,,,,if its 135mm, just go for a new wheel with a shimano hub.

[reohn2]

The free hub body I offered won't fit as it's a Shimano one.

[LittleGreyCat]

The free hub body I offered won't fit as it's a Shimano one.

Nevertheless the offer was much appreciated!

[LittleGreyCat]

Supplementary: my books say that I will need a chain whip to remove the cassette (I have the removal tool). There are all sorts, from under £5 to may tens of pounds. Advice on choice?

[Brucey]

for getting a cassette off, a cheap one will do; use it on a middle or large sized sprocket. For removing a fixed gear sprocket, or disassembling a freewheel, the best chain whips imaginable probably won't be good enough...

cheers

[gaz]

'99 SRAM dealers manual showing exploded view of Neos (cup and cone) and New Success (cartridge) hubs. Some of the shifters in the manual remain Sachs branded.

May assist as a guide, I don't doubt 531Colin when he says his Neos were cartridge bearing.

[LittleGreyCat]

Just been spinning it and the bearings feel a bit rough.
The dust covers say Sachs.

Are you sure it's a freehub? Sachs did make these but they also made both threaded and helicomatic freewheels. Pics will help if you have any doubts.

How do I tell what shifters I have and what they are capable of?

IIRC if you roll the covers on the hoods forward (as if to fit bar tape) you'll discover the model number, ST-xxxx. Post that for more info.

Yes, usual dumb bunny moment; so long since I have looked at the bike properly.

ST 3300 shifters with Shimano 7 Speed written in lovely clear letters on the top.

[aljohn]

Some years ago I bought a Carrera Virtuoso on Ebay.I fetched it from 20 miles away through icy roads and found the bike had been left outside for several weeks! When at home I stripped it and found the freewheel, er, freewheeled backwards and forwards. I put loads of wd40 in it and just spun it for a while, then tried again a few hours later. Three days after it finally worked OK and I no longer had any problems with it. Perhaps I was just lucky, but I would persevere with the wd40/oil for a while before taking it apart or replacing it. But then I am a tight old git.....

[Brucey]

.... Perhaps I was just lucky, but I would persevere with the wd40/oil for a while before taking it apart or replacing it. But then I am a tight old git.....

I'm a tight old git too.

Or maybe I just think there is already too much waste in this world, and I prefer to fix stuff....

cheers

[Giles Pargiter]

Of course one can remove a cassette by keeping the bike the right way up removing the rear skewer/track nuts, dropping the wheel below the drop out so that you can engage the cassette remover (may need to deflate the tyre to clear the brakes) and with your chain still engaged lever it against the crank . . . if you see what I mean? They are not usually that tight, they certainly do not need to be. Gets round a chain wrench, good if your on the road especially.

[Brucey]

it is a good tip but the lockring does need to be kept tight (to the torque specifications recommended) if damage between the cassette and freehub body is to be avoided. It is very much worse with an aluminium freehub body but even steel ones can be damaged.

Obviously the damage arising varies with how hard you push on the pedals and what gearing you run.

The lockring tends to settle (esp with plastic spacers between the sprockets) so needs to be re-torqued at intervals; ideally the first check should be two weeks or so after first fitting IME.

Some plastic spacers are seemingly on the move forever; I prefer metal spacers.

cheers

[LittleGreyCat]

Some years ago I bought a Carrera Virtuoso on Ebay.I fetched it from 20 miles away through icy roads and found the bike had been left outside for several weeks! When at home I stripped it and found the freewheel, er, freewheeled backwards and forwards. I put loads of wd40 in it and just spun it for a while, then tried again a few hours later. Three days after it finally worked OK and I no longer had any problems with it. Perhaps I was just lucky, but I would persevere with the wd40/oil for a while before taking it apart or replacing it. But then I am a tight old git.....

I'm tending towards that route but now considering that the bearings might be shot at.
I could always invest in a set of ear plugs so I don't hear the creaking, groaning and grinding sounds.....