Cotter Pin Press/Removal Tool

[DarkNewt]

Hi All,

trying to remove cotterpins from a raleigh all steel bicycle. I have tried the hammer, heat, wd40 lots of swearing, cursing the universe etc.. I have tried to use a g-clamp not strong enough does anyone know of anyone near the west midlands who has one that I could travel over and use?

Everything else was going comparitively easy

I have even tried to drill it out, 2 x titanium bits later that's not working, I think the steel has turned to diamond I didn't think steel age hardenedI have even tried using the force... I guess it's not strong with me!

If all else fails I will be looking at cutting the crank off on one side and taking it to a machine shop to be drilled out which will be a bit drastic They sure made things well in the 50's/60's it's like the cotterpin is welded into the crank/arm.

All helpful and comic replies gratefully recieved!

[Norman H]

You may well have done all this but in the past it always worked for me:

Support the underside of the crank using a block of wood with a hole drilled in it to take the head of the cotter pin. Replace the nut and screw on enough to allow the cotter pin some free movement before the nut contacts the crank. This makes it less likely that you will bend or otherwise damage the threaded end. Use a steel bar as a drift between the pin and the hammer. This makes it less likely that you will miss with the hammer and gives you more confidence to give it a good whack.

Once it releases remove the nut and tap through with a drift.

[Brucey]

from where you are now it is probably a bit late for a press...?

If you have access to welding facilities, weld a length of 3/8" bar stock to the fat end of the cotter pin. Configure the 3/8" rod to work like a slide hammer, and have at it. The chances are excellent that the heat from welding will have broken the bonds of corrosion to some extent and the cotter pin will more easily come free after a few knocks.

BTW if you are knocking the threaded end, I find it is best to use a length of thick-walled steel tube (or another old LH crank) to support the crank; this gives a better support than a piece of wood.

cheers

[fausto99]

Use a large G clamp on the nutted, threaded end of the cotter and some appropriate size sockets (from a socket set) on the other end. Wind up the clamp as hard as you can and go and have a cup of tea. The whole lot will be on the floor in pieces when you come back

Works for me every time (after an overnight soak with Plus Gas A)

[DarkNewt]

To late for the press - I am going to get a heavier G-clamp and give it another go!

[LollyKat]

Ah, that brings back (not so) happy memories - back in the day I hacksawed off more than one crank.

Prop the cranks up so that they are horizontal, then make a diagonal cut across the top, as close to the cotter pin as you can. Once you've got through, you can then get on the bike with the front wheel against a wall and the brakes on, and bounce on the pedals until the saw cut opens up and you can prise it off the spindle.

This is of course a technique of last resort. I was so happy when cotterless cranks became affordable.

[JohnW]

................. I was so happy when cotterless cranks became affordable.

Hoo boy! - +1 to that!

[DarkNewt]

I am still looking at a cotterpin removal tool if I can source one, I am also going to see if I can take it into a machine shop to see what they can do.

[cromo]

I have in the past used a car ball joint separator to remove cotter pins e.g. Clarke CHT222, available from Machine Mart. I am not guaranteeing success with this tool in your case but it may be an option for you.

[Brucey]

I have in the past used a car ball joint separator to remove cotter pins e.g. Clarke CHT222, available from Machine Mart. I am not guaranteeing success with this tool in your case but it may be an option for you.

good point; such tools ( I have a couple of 'Laser' branded scissor action ball-joint splitters that are virtually identical to the Clarke one) are more easily capable of exerting a much larger force than a typical G-clamp. NB you may need to have a backing piece behind the crank, depending on the spacing of the fork in a scissor action splitter.

BTW the Clarke one is available for as little as about £7.50. Bargain.

cheers

[DarkNewt]

Hi All,

that looks awesome - just the ticket! I will let you know how I get on!

Newt

[PAB855]

In my successful attempt, I was fortunate to have a big engineer's vice in my garage. With a big enough hex socket to give space round the plain end of the cotter pin, the vice was closed onto the threaded end with the nut on to give a bit of a better bearing surface. I had to use a 3ft length of tubing to give enough leverage. After a dose of plusgas both were removed, one gave in as if I was gently cutting cheese, the other was more reluctant. After swinging on the pipe, it finally gave way with an almighty bang! Good luck

[fausto99]

The advantage of a big G clamp rather than a vice is that you can do it all with the bike on the ground and leave it unattended. No holding the bike up to a bench vice , nor any propping up to the right height of a loose vice on the floor... and the cup of tea, of course!

[peetee]

A mate of mine made a tool from a U shaped piece of steel and an 8mm bolt. Works a treat - several hours post-Plusgas, of course.

and the cup of tea, of course!

Can't do a thing without it!

[Gattonero]

Sounds like it too late now, but I always have great success by heating up the cranks, then using the threaded end and on the opposite side an old socket (say a 12/14mm) I clamp it in the vice, as centered as it's possible, and give it a good squeeze!
Once the seal is broken, a pin-punch is enough to remove the cotter pin