Front light positioning

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
With the extension I posted you can mount it down like your black plastic thingummy.
Move the bell onto the steerer then the TV screen is just left on top...........wider bars............

[Mick F]

Can't put the bell on the steerer. The steerer has alu spacers that turn. Also, the bell is designed for handlebars and not a steerer or headset.
I don't want wider 'bars. I sold the originals because they were wider than my shoulders. The one's I have now are perfect.

Not sure about that mount, though it's a very keen price!
1. It's not in silver.
2. The lighting mounts would need to be attached to it, so it would be a mount on a mount.

I love my Garmin Montana.
Monty and me are an item.

[Brucey]

further to my earlier post, for a moulton, I'd probably get something like this;


https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/254-tektro-alloy-cable-hanger-w-adjuster-black/

and add an extension to it to mount the lamp. The bracket ought to be pretty strong and the adjuster thread is usually M6; it ought to be straightforward to use an M6 nut and bolt to add the bracket/extension as required.

Not keen on it. It would have to go on the steerer and I doubt it would be as easy as the other one suggested by deliquium above.

the steerer is IMHO the best place for a front lamp on a Moulton, unless you have a bar bag, which you don't. Unlike the other steerer mounted brackets, it will stay put on an A-head setup because it has a clamp to the steerer, and it will fit easily because it doesn't assume that the steerer has a groove in it....

IIRC such a bracket has an M6 thread in it (for the barrel adjuster) ready to accept almost any front light mounting. It is certainly a lot stiffer and stronger than the (frankly flimsy looking) plastic brackets you seem keen on, and doesn't require that you have wires trailing around the stem (always a bad idea IME).

cheers

[Mick F]

So ..............

That could clamp on the steerer, but be loose as the top cap was tightened to set the headset correctly, then the clamp could be set and aligned. The profile of the clamp may not sit correctly, but the alu spacer below it - and above it? - but could be profiled to accommodate it?

Only issue as I can see, is that the hight of the bracket might not be a multiple of the spacer size. Not an insurmountable issue perhaps.

[Mick F]

Found the same one in shiny alu.
Much nicer than black.

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/BSTKFCH/t ... at1-silver
They don't say the clamp diameter, so I found the Tektro page.
http://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=123
............ and it's for a 1" steerer.

[Brucey]

eh? isn't the model number 1274-AT1?

Doesn't that make it 1-1/8"..?

If so you might have to use a shim or something?

cheers

[meic]

The original objection to mounting a light on the steerer tube spacers was that they rotated a bit, as do mine on one bike.
This could be prevented by many means from a small grub screw with a nice gentle nose through the spacer and pushing on to the tube within, to just some glue inside.
I have a blinky mounted on the spacers and I just twist it back into place when it moves.

Another possible piece of kit is this bell mount, depending on how the bell is fixed.
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/BEPXHSS/p ... pacer-bell

Were you planning on testing a position for your dynamo lamp with a battery lamp?
If so it may rule out places that were OK for a dynamo lamp because they are much lighter and more compact than battery lights.

[Mick F]

The original objection to mounting a light on the steerer tube spacers was that they rotated a bit, as do mine on one bike.

My idea is to buy one that clamps on the steerer itself and fashion the spacers to fit top and bottom of it.

Fit the mount loose ............... then adjust the headset as normal with the top cap, then align the mount.
Then tighten the mount nice and tight.

If I do go down the dynamo lights route, that's what I intend to do. I may buy one anyway, and use it to fit a front battery light to.

[freiston]

One advantage (imho) of using the [s]gear[/s] brake cable hanger (and I do find it the most appealing of possible solutions) is that once it is tightened in position below the stem, it maintains the preload if ever you want to alter your spacer/stem setup. Dear Sheldon Brown (iirc) used to use a similar clamp and do away with the star-fangled nut/compression/expander nut altogether - he reckoned that if you tightened the clamp with all your weight bearing down on the bars, then your preload was pretty much sorted.

Edited to correct error (phbb code for strikethrough doesn't work )

[Mick F]

I would not in a million years consider the brake bolt a good place to mount the front light on a moulton. The lamp will be flapping up and down as the suspension moves, which will be a distraction even if it doesn't shake everything to bits.

Test ride complete this morning well before dawn.

The light is mounted on the brake bolt, and does not jiggle in the slightest, despite finding poor road surfaces.

Only issue, is that the light is mounted too low, but it's ok and will do for now.
Not one single jiggle.

[Mick F]

Had a brainwave over breakfast!

Half an hour of fettling, and I'd sorted it.
Alu flat bar bent at just over 90deg and inserted into the 'bar clamp as a "sandwich". The clamps done up tight and my new bracket is as solid as a rock. Drilled hole, a nut, bolt and a couple of washers, and Hey Presto!

All I need to do now, is wire it up. I may need and extension to the wiring, but that's no problem.

Test ride in the dark required again. I may do an early ride again tomorrow, and go further.

[Brucey]

I would not in a million years consider the brake bolt a good place to mount the front light on a moulton. The lamp will be flapping up and down as the suspension moves, which will be a distraction even if it doesn't shake everything to bits.

Test ride complete this morning well before dawn.

The light is mounted on the brake bolt, and does not jiggle in the slightest, despite finding poor road surfaces.

Only issue, is that the light is mounted too low, but it's ok and will do for now.
Not one single jiggle.

I'm glad you tried it out for yourself; maybe my lamp had a more flexible bracket, a sharper cutoff, or I'm fussier and I ride on bumpier roads....

BTW the bracket looks like it may do for a while but I do worry that it is a bit flexy and it will, in time, fatigue. It might take months or years before it fails, but if/when it does, the lamp will come free. If you are lucky it will dangle on the wires and it/you won't come to any harm. If you are unlucky it will fall in the front wheel, which 'would be a bad thing'.

If you made a shorter version in steel (with holes to locate the stem bolts etc) it would be stiffer and stronger.

cheers

[Mick F]

Good point there Brucey.
Yes, steel would be better, and I'll keep a lookout for some nice stuff. I don't want any old mild steel, SS would be better and blingier.

How about brass?
Polished with a clear lacquer on top.

Meanwhile, I'll keep an eye on the alu strip. The light itself weighs almost nothing and I think the steel bracket is the heavies part of it. The pack it came in says it weighs 150g.

[Richard D]

I use one of these for my B&M headlamp:
https://www.evanscycles.com/minoura-cs- ... t-EV207949
It's clamped to the steerer, taking the place of a spacer, and there's no way it's rotating without some very serious provocation.

[rmurphy195]

I use one of these for my B&M headlamp:
https://www.evanscycles.com/minoura-cs- ... t-EV207949
It's clamped to the steerer, taking the place of a spacer, and there's no way it's rotating without some very serious provocation.

This looks good, but the description on Evans website is a bit confusing. Do you have a piccy?