New dyno hub for my Moulton.

[Mick F]

I ordered an SP8 early yesterday morning, and it arrived late morning today. Excellent service from Spa.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s133p30 ... YNAMO-PV-8
I knew it was arriving today by the tracking information, so I stripped the front wheel ready.

I was betting on the fact that the spokes I had would fit. They were the originals from the Moulton as 2x, and I used them again as 1x for my new CR18 rims. I guessed that I would need 2x to get them to fit the dyno hub, and I wasn't wrong.

The wheel built up easily - smaller wheels are far easier than bigger wheels - so it was laced up and dished and trued in a jiffy. I still need a USB charging device and a front light plus maybe a rear light, but this'll do for the time being until I've made up my mind.

Off for a test ride shortly.

[hamster]

I thought that you had to have a dyno suited to the wheel size and that there were 20" and 27"-ish variants to avoid the problems of higher rotation with little wheels. Is this not the case any more?

[AM7]

I thought that you had to have a dyno suited to the wheel size and that there were 20" and 27"-ish variants to avoid the problems of higher rotation with little wheels. Is this not the case any more?

See Brucey's comments on this here - https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=89859#p814989

[Mick F]

Just come back from a quickie 15miler.
The wheel rotates well enough without any noticeable drag - no load of course.
Wheel stayed true with no clicks and groans.

I thought that you had to have a dyno suited to the wheel size and that there were 20" and 27"-ish variants to avoid the problems of higher rotation with little wheels. Is this not the case any more?

The SP8 is for wheels sized 400mm to 536mm.

It says this top right in the drawing.

[fossala]

Just come back from a quickie 15miler.
The wheel rotates well enough without any noticeable drag - no load of course.
Wheel stayed true with no clicks and groans.

I thought that you had to have a dyno suited to the wheel size and that there were 20" and 27"-ish variants to avoid the problems of higher rotation with little wheels. Is this not the case any more?

The SP8 is for wheels sized 400mm to 536mm.

It says this top right in the drawing.SP8 Dynohub.jpg

They are more draggy when wired up to a light but only noticeable when you spin it by hand. You may feel a little vibration on the smoothest road at speed. I have the SV-8 on a 369 rim but haven't tested it yet.

[al_yrpal]

While the cats away....

Al

[andrew_s]

I thought that you had to have a dyno suited to the wheel size and that there were 20" and 27"-ish variants to avoid the problems of higher rotation with little wheels. Is this not the case any more?

It's model number confusion; there is no such thing as an "SP8" hub, other than as a series of models.

SP = Shutter Precision, the manufacturer
"8" models are SV-8 (small wheels, rim/V-brakes), SD-8 (small wheels, 6-bolt disc), SL-8 (small wheel, centerlock disc), plus PV-8, PD-8, PL-8 which are the large wheel (26"/700c) equivalents. There are also versions of the PD and PL hubs with an X or X-M suffix for 15 mm and 12 mm through axles respectively, plus other models with further suffix for non-standard axles (Brompton, Fatbike etc).
SON still have a monopoly on stub axles for trikes though

If you use a P-series hub in a small wheel, you'll get more drag, better light and charging at low speeds, and probably have a higher chance of blowing up a badly designed charger.

[hamster]

Ah, that explains my confusion...

[speedsixdave]

Hi Mick,

Apologies for sticking all my lighting snaps in this thread and not separating into front/rear/hub as you have done.

My 24h SV-8 with an IQ Fly mounted on the 'brake bolt'. There are better lights than the IQ Fly now but the additional height is useful.
I do not really recognise the jiggling and bouncing noted by Brucey, although I no longer commute in the dark on this bike so may have erased it from memory.

Cable routing on the TSR2. Maplin crimp adapters to allow separation. There are probably neater and better solutions for separation but these work fine on this and our tandem.

Philips Saferide on the rear day rack. Note more separators to allow easy removal of rear rack and light.

B&M not Secula on the mudguard. Parallel wired so both lights work. I cannot detect any lack of dimness this way but like having two lights.

Home-adapted lamp bracket. New hole drilled for 50mm spacing and widened hole for M8 carrier bolt. And bent a bit.

Will post further when back from the pub.

Dave

[geocycle]

That's a fabulous looking bike Dave. Belt drive as well!

[Mick F]

Apologies for sticking all my lighting snaps in this thread and not separating into front/rear/hub as you have done.

Don't apologise, that is a brilliant post and very informative.
I like the way you've routed the cables. I too had thought of connectors, and Maplins would be my first port of call.

Although if Brucey says the front light would jiggle on the brake bolt, I think that if/when I buy a front light, I'll be mounting it there just to test his theory. If it needs to move to somewhere else, so be it.

Next thing, and this will happen in the next couple of days, I'll be making an alu bracket to fit on the rear rack mounts to mount a rear rack battery light. I already have a Cateye rear light on the rack of another bike. This will test out the rear light arrangement quandary with a Moulton without a rear rack.

[Brucey]

as well as the possible jiggling issue, there is another possible issue with the nearfield illumination brightness. Fancy lights have bright nearfield illumination and this might be too much when the lamp is mounted low down. Half the height means ~x4 brightness in the nearfield, and the same brightness in the main beam.

If you find a beamshot that takes your fancy, check what height the lamp was set at and try to copy that.

cheers

[Mick F]

Yes.
All good points.

If I do go ahead with this, it'll be in a suck it and see basis.

[speedsixdave]

Thanks guys! I quite like the belt drive, very quiet. There was a time when I was commuting regularly on this bike for 5 flat miles and it was mostly perfect for that job. Now it does not get used very much and I am thinking of selling it to fund a posher Moulton.

Another one of the mudguard light. These mudguards are terrible and were a false economy. I never know what to do with the cable to a rear mudguard. On this one I have used strips of reflective tape to hold down the cable which looks, erm, functional. On my wife's prettier Bob Jackson I have glued the cable along the top of the guard which definitely looks better. I guess under the mudguard would be neater but I fear mud and loosening. I have Seculas on other bikes and they are smaller, neater and generally better.

My home-made rear bracket, with a temporary B&M light rather than the Philips. This is a good light and very small and neat but the Philips is better, although I think they may be discontinued. Should have bought four when I had the chance. Until I got the day rack and bag I used a Carradice SQR lift on the seatpost with a Camper longflap or Barley, so this sat beneath. It seemed fairly visible from the rear in my tests, not obscured by the bag as long as it's high enough. I suspect side visibility would be compromised by one's legs though, hence the mudguard light really.

Finally the bar-mount-bracket you have already spotted. Quite like these, they don't take up much space on the bar and place the light nicely in the centre. Easy to adjust angle as well should you so desire. This is on my wife's Eroica Galaxy, with an Izico (?) battery light. Looks better than it works!

[Brucey]

the traditional approach is to route the wire up one of the mudguard stays.

BTW it may seem tempting to put inline connectors everywhere, and indeed it can make various jobs a lot easier. But it also introduces plenty of points at which you may later get an intermittent contact. If I use crimp connectors on a bike that is to be used in the winter, I proof the crimps with loads of waxoyl; if road salt enters the crimp it is usually a disaster.

Two inline bullet connectors represents at least six contacts (one for each crimp plus the mating parts of the connector) that might go bad.

cheers