Tubeless tyres

[Brucey]

that is a good idea for a fatbike but I can't see folk liking the look so much on a road bike. I wonder if there is something that works as well but is smaller?

cheers

[sbcoombs]

My 2p worth. I’ve never had a problem undoing a valve. Simply apply pressure to the back of the valve to take pressure off the nut. If you can’t undo it, it was done up tighter than necessary.
I use SlimePro. Which is not latex based. It seals better than latex and doesn’t try out with CO2.
Anything which won’t seal can be plugged with a sticky string repair until getting home, to save breaking the bead. Patch it once home.
I run several MTB and my CX bike tubeless and am a convert. Having ridden for years with tuned friends, it is clear to see the advantages.
My TT bike runs tubular so won’t be converted.
I have not yet converted by road bikes simply as it would mean new rims and tyres. I believe the next year will see the range and comparability improve so I’m waiting a while.
Im not usually an early adopter with new technology but the weight of experience on the other bikes shows that way forward.


I'm a trendy consumer. Just look at my wobbly bog brush using hovercraft full of eels

[Gattonero]

that is a good idea for a fatbike but I can't see folk liking the look so much on a road bike. I wonder if there is something that works as well but is smaller?

cheers

Form vs. Function?
To be fair, most modern bikes are the least graceful thing, so the valve nut is nothing when you got Popeye-arm-sized headtubes, wavy forks, and what not they can murder a bike design with

The only problem I can think about, is on 40h rims and/or smaller than 26", leaving very little space to put the fingers on

[busb]

A fews years back my commute involved a few miles of unlit roads with no paths which was also extremely busy. I can remember having a spate of punctures. On one particular ride home in the dark, I punctured but it was far too busy to fix so walked my bike which was very dangerous - one driver used their horn. I replaced my worn (but not worn out) tyres with Conti Gatorskins. Tyres may not look worn but their ability to survive punctures may well be very reduced despite having a protective layer. The Conti tyres did reduce the number of punctures without compromising grip & wet weather performance.
Back in April, I bought a new bike that came tubeless as well as hydraulic disc brakes (Giant Defy). The only puncture I had since then was on my hybrid with those Conti tyres. I've since converted it to tubeless which entailed buying new wheels, tyres, rim tape, sealant, valves & an inflator tank. Getting the wheels to seal was a baptism of fire! The tyres were very expensive so the whole exercise wasn't cheap.
I ran the Defy's tyres (Giant Gavia 25c) between 70 - 90 psi & the hybrid (Schwalbe One Speed 30c) between 60 - 70 psi. Both sets need more regular pumping than those with innertubes but not as regularly as with Laxtex inners so acceptable to me. The ride quality on both bikes is excellent. The Defy's tyres are treadless & is a very comfortable bike to ride despite having drop bars. The hybrid's tyres have some shallow tread & is my preferred winter bike.
Conti do not make nor see the point in producing tubeless tyres for road bikes - they make them for MTB & CX though so Conti would agree with Brucey on this subject! Weather or not Conti are hedging their bets - who can say?
As for punctures, I'm obviously prepared so carry a spare innertube, standard puncture repair & tubeless repair kits as well as a tyre jack - tubeless tyres can be an absolute bitch to get over the rim. So far, I haven't needed them. It's too early to say if going tubeless was worthhile - I report back after spring.
Brucey also makes some valid points such as lack of standards for rim & tyres compatibility, sealant standards etc. Mavic now produce a range of tubeless "wheel systems" so have side-stepped rim & tyre compatibility issues. I've watched countless YouTube footage on both setting up, initial sealing, preparation & the famed puncture resistance of tubeless road tyres so am fairly confidant I haven't made an expensive mistake but my own experience will decide that!
If you are weight obsessive, you probably won't go tubeless & I wouldn't run tubeless tyres with rim brakes if cycling loads of long decents - the heat generated by the rims probably wouldn't do the sealant much good though I'd be happy to run discs on long decents - would not keep the brakes on constantly in other words. IMO, tubeless road tyres make more sense when combined with disc brakes.

[mnichols]

https://problemsolversbike.com/products ... _-_mprob04

Are these available in the uk?

[Gattonero]

Yes there is a distributor for them, I think is called "Ison" so I guess that a well stocked shop that caters for Mtb will have them.

[busb]

Did some maintenance to my hybrid's ineffective front hydraulic brake - fitted a new pair of Shimano pads. The IceTech rotors appear to be rather fussy regarding using a particular grade of resin pads so new calliper not needed.
The other job was to suck out the sealant from my Defy's tyres then replace - very slightly off-white but no lumps. Was worried they had run dry. Another simple job associated with road tubeless without any appreciable loss of fluid. I've hung up the Defy with its valves facing down until the spring or bout of fine weather.

[ianrobo]

I have Tubs and love them and when I have to replace my other wheels it will be with these. Yes a bit awkward to replace but when out riding simply no need to change and as long as you have some filler, all is fine.

[softlips]

Did some maintenance to my hybrid's ineffective front hydraulic brake - fitted a new pair of Shimano pads. The IceTech rotors appear to be rather fussy regarding using a particular grade of resin pads so new calliper not needed.
The other job was to suck out the sealant from my Defy's tyres then replace - very slightly off-white but no lumps. Was worried they had run dry. Another simple job associated with road tubeless without any appreciable loss of fluid. I've hung up the Defy with its valves facing down until the spring or bout of fine weather.

How did you remove the sealant. The stuff in my Defy is around six months old, I'm usuing it on rollers in winter but wondered about removing the sealant until spring.

[busb]

Did some maintenance to my hybrid's ineffective front hydraulic brake - fitted a new pair of Shimano pads. The IceTech rotors appear to be rather fussy regarding using a particular grade of resin pads so new calliper not needed.
The other job was to suck out the sealant from my Defy's tyres then replace - very slightly off-white but no lumps. Was worried they had run dry. Another simple job associated with road tubeless without any appreciable loss of fluid. I've hung up the Defy with its valves facing down until the spring or bout of fine weather.

.........................................
How did you remove the sealant. The stuff in my Defy is around six months old, I'm usuing it on rollers in winter but wondered about removing the sealant until spring.

i bought a large syringe that came with tubing. I attached a 50mm SS 3mm tube as a straw with a Neoprene rubber sleeve to seal the business-end of the supplied tubing, removed the air, rotated the wheel with the valves facing up, unscrewed the cores then sucked out the sealant. Next time, I'll probably just top up slightly then pump it back if still OK. I bought SS tubes off Amazon but a cotton bud with the cotton removed will be ideal. The job refilling the tyre needs to be done slowly or it overflows!
The tyres were well sealed to the rims so didn't worry about resealing the tyres - just pumped them back up. Whatever you use a a straw, cut or file the end at a slight angle otherwise you block the end when sucking against the inside of the tyres. Unless you remove the tyres & clean all residual traces of sealant, use the same to top-up. Giant use rebadged Stans.
My syringe has "Single use" printed on it. I take that to mean don't use for any other purpose such as brake fluid bleeding rather than throwing it away!

[softlips]

Did some maintenance to my hybrid's ineffective front hydraulic brake - fitted a new pair of Shimano pads. The IceTech rotors appear to be rather fussy regarding using a particular grade of resin pads so new calliper not needed.
The other job was to suck out the sealant from my Defy's tyres then replace - very slightly off-white but no lumps. Was worried they had run dry. Another simple job associated with road tubeless without any appreciable loss of fluid. I've hung up the Defy with its valves facing down until the spring or bout of fine weather.

.........................................
How did you remove the sealant. The stuff in my Defy is around six months old, I'm usuing it on rollers in winter but wondered about removing the sealant until spring.

i bought a large syringe that came with tubing. I attached a 50mm SS 3mm tube as a straw with a Neoprene rubber sleeve to seal the business-end of the supplied tubing, removed the air, rotated the wheel with the valves facing up, unscrewed the cores then sucked out the sealant. Next time, I'll probably just top up slightly then pump it back if still OK. I bought SS tubes off Amazon but a cotton bud with the cotton removed will be ideal. The job refilling the tyre needs to be done slowly or it overflows!
The tyres were well sealed to the rims so didn't worry about resealing the tyres - just pumped them back up. Whatever you use a a straw, cut or file the end at a slight angle otherwise you block the end when sucking against the inside of the tyres. Unless you remove the tyres & clean all residual traces of sealant, use the same to top-up. Giant use rebadged Stans.
My syringe has "Single use" printed on it. I take that to mean don't use for any other purpose such as brake fluid bleeding rather than throwing it away!

Thanks. I work in medicine, I guess they're just medical syringes - hence the single use message.

[busb]

.........................................
How did you remove the sealant. The stuff in my Defy is around six months old, I'm usuing it on rollers in winter but wondered about removing the sealant until spring.

i bought a large syringe that came with tubing. I attached a 50mm SS 3mm tube as a straw with a Neoprene rubber sleeve to seal the business-end of the supplied tubing, removed the air, rotated the wheel with the valves facing up, unscrewed the cores then sucked out the sealant. Next time, I'll probably just top up slightly then pump it back if still OK. I bought SS tubes off Amazon but a cotton bud with the cotton removed will be ideal. The job refilling the tyre needs to be done slowly or it overflows!
The tyres were well sealed to the rims so didn't worry about resealing the tyres - just pumped them back up. Whatever you use a a straw, cut or file the end at a slight angle otherwise you block the end when sucking against the inside of the tyres. Unless you remove the tyres & clean all residual traces of sealant, use the same to top-up. Giant use rebadged Stans.
My syringe has "Single use" printed on it. I take that to mean don't use for any other purpose such as brake fluid bleeding rather than throwing it away!

Thanks. I work in medicine, I guess they're just medical syringes - hence the single use message.

What struck me was just how much sealant was left. We using small syringes at work in a dosing gun so I used a cut-down plastic 2mm tip pushed into the hose - removing the need to screw the hose on to the syringe itself. I cannot comment whether or not it's best to leave or remove the sealant over winter. Leaving it does mean you can ride on fine days with reduced risk of puncturing.