Threaded headset difficulty

For discussions about bikes and equipment.
nirakaro
Posts: 1062
Joined: 22 Dec 2007, 2:01am

Threaded headset difficulty

Postby nirakaro » 4 Dec 2017, 5:15pm

One of those jobs that turns out to be much bigger than it seemed…
I wanted, for reasons I won't bore you with, to replace the cable hanger for my front cantilever brake, with a drop hanger. Easy peasy, I thought, whip the old one off, stick the new one on, put the kettle on. But –
The new, aluminium, hanger is 4mm thicker than the old, steel, hanger, and doesn't leave enough thread to screw the top headset nut back on. So what are my options –
I think there's enough meat on the new hanger to grind maybe 3mm off it, but I'm a bit reluctant to do that sort of thing where brakes are concerned.
Is it feasible to drive one of the bearing cups out, and shorten the head tube 3/4mm? How do I get it out?
New front fork? I'd really rather not.
Any other options?

User avatar
fausto99
Posts: 472
Joined: 19 Sep 2011, 10:06am

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby fausto99 » 4 Dec 2017, 5:21pm

At the risk of stating the obvious, don't do any of that. I know the al one probably looks nicer, but stick with a thin steel one and save yourself a huge amount of aggro. Those ones with a quick release https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dia-Compe-Fr ... SwyjJZz4Uc are very handy if you ever go for wider tyres.
Last edited by fausto99 on 4 Dec 2017, 5:22pm, edited 1 time in total.

Brucey
Posts: 36822
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby Brucey » 4 Dec 2017, 5:22pm

options include

- a thinner (e.g. pressed steel) hanger
- a hanger built in to the stem
- a hanger that clamps round the upright part of the stem (with a shim if necessary)
- an 'uphanger' that bolts onto the fork crown
- a headset with a shorter stack height

as well as options involving surgery on the frame/fork

cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Roadster
Posts: 443
Joined: 26 Jul 2016, 2:12pm
Location: E.Lancs/W.Yorks border

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby Roadster » 4 Dec 2017, 5:25pm

What fausto99 says. Forget the alloy idea and just get a replacement steel hanger like the old one.

pwa
Posts: 11273
Joined: 2 Oct 2011, 8:55pm

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby pwa » 4 Dec 2017, 5:29pm

I found that an "uphanger" extending up from the fork crown eliminated brake judder. And it will not add to the stack height of the headset arrangement.

nirakaro
Posts: 1062
Joined: 22 Dec 2007, 2:01am

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby nirakaro » 4 Dec 2017, 5:38pm

I would if I could (use a thin steel one). I haven't seen a steel hanger with the inch or so of drop that I need. Have you? Plus, of course, being a cheapskate, I'd rather use the one I've already got!

Brucey
Posts: 36822
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby Brucey » 4 Dec 2017, 6:05pm

Image

cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

rjb
Posts: 3568
Joined: 11 Jan 2007, 10:25am
Location: Somerset (originally 60/70's Plymouth)

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby rjb » 4 Dec 2017, 7:34pm

Heres an alternative
Image
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/tekt ... er-brakes/
They are fiddly to set up and go out of adjustment as the brake blocks wear. You can arrange them with cable adjusters to enable one to keep them at their optimum efficiency but they should have had them in the first place.
like these.
Image
At the last count:- Focus Variado, Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin, Raleigh 20, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Longstaff trike conversion on a Falcon corsa. :D

Brucey
Posts: 36822
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby Brucey » 4 Dec 2017, 8:30pm

it seems to me that with the rocker type arrangement, it would work best if it had a barrel adjuster on both halves of the straddle. In practice this would mean that you would need a barrel adjuster on one arm, and on the main cable, either at the lever or inline perhaps.

cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

fastpedaller
Posts: 2283
Joined: 10 Jul 2014, 1:12pm
Location: Norfolk

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby fastpedaller » 4 Dec 2017, 9:06pm

That's a neat little idea

nirakaro
Posts: 1062
Joined: 22 Dec 2007, 2:01am

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby nirakaro » 5 Dec 2017, 10:51am

Brucey wrote:Image

cheers

Ah, Brucey, you took my words too literally. Seeing it - even against such an attractive background - is no great help unless I can also buy it. :shock:

Brucey
Posts: 36822
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby Brucey » 5 Dec 2017, 11:08am

e-bay is infested with them

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAFAC-Front-Cable-Guide-Wire-Hanger-NOS/173008582424

NB you may have to

a) bend it slightly to match some headsets
b) modify it with a file so that it fits some steerers OK

BTW it is also neither as strong nor as stiff as many modern cable hangers. There are other ones such as weinmann and shimano hangers that fit 1" steerers and have a similar drop.

cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

nirakaro
Posts: 1062
Joined: 22 Dec 2007, 2:01am

Re: Threaded headset difficulty

Postby nirakaro » 5 Dec 2017, 1:52pm

Many thanks for all the suggestions – what a helpful bunch.
Putting the hanger on the stem wasn't going to give me enough height gain (the issue is having enough room for the brake outer to make a 90degree bend as it comes out from under the bar tape, and still have room for a bit of adjustment) the uphanger on the fork crown would do the job, but looks, to my eye, a bit inelegant. I'd looked online for the thin steel drop hanger, but must have used the wrong search terms.
In the end a homemade head-tube-bearing-cup-extractor let me "tap" the cup out (it took more than tapping, believe me. Is this what engineers call an "interference fit"?), and then a very careful half-hour with angle grinder and file shortened the head tube by 3.5mm. To my relief/mild surprise, everything went back together as it should, and seems to work nicely. Thanks again.