SPD cleat retaining bolts- grease, threadlock or dry?

[GarethF]

Judging by the clicking that is developing on the upstroke I'm assuming my cleats are finally worn out. I'm hoping the old ones undo without too much trouble but not sure whether to treat the new retaining bolts afterward. I'm conscious that since my MTB shoes get most use in the winter the bolts will be subjected to salt and everything else. Should they be greased to avoid corrosion and hence ease removal when the cleats need replacing next time, or threadlock to avoid loosening in service? Or should I just fit them dry? I can't remember whether I treated the original ones or not.

Thanks in advance
G

I may be back later on for tips on the management of seized bolt!

[Mick F]

I have always put copper grease on the securing screw threads.
I remove the cleats from time-to-time and re-grease.
Never had an issue.

[Mick F]

PS:
Looking at my pedal and cleat instruction booklet, it tells you to grease the threads.

[Brucey]

use an anti-seize, such as copper ease. The bolts usually 'wind in' two or three turns as the teeth on the cleat bite into the shoe sole; if fully tightened thusly, they won't back out by themselves.

cheers

[foxyrider]

use an anti-seize, such as copper ease. The bolts usually 'wind in' two or three turns as the teeth on the cleat bite into the shoe sole; if fully tightened thusly, they won't back out by themselves.

You say that but i've recently had one bolt loosen - tbh I thought the knocking was the BlackBerry bearings! The bolt only loosened a little and the resulting movement destroyed a couple of threads preventing re-tightening. Replacement bolt and it's fixed.

My pedals and cleats look terrible but they are one part that Mr Shimano really has got right!

[reohn2]

Copper grease.
From time to time I use a scribe or small sharpened screwdriver blade to dig out anything that's stuck in the Allen heads(you'd be surprìsed what gets stuck in them).I then slacker off each bolt in half a turn and tighten it up again.

[Airsporter1st]

It sounds counter-intuitive, but threadlock not only stops the screws/bolts from coming loose in use, but also helps to ensure they can be loosened when desired, by preventing galling and/or corrosion.

[Brucey]

use an anti-seize, such as copper ease. The bolts usually 'wind in' two or three turns as the teeth on the cleat bite into the shoe sole; if fully tightened thusly, they won't back out by themselves.

You say that but i've recently had one bolt loosen .....The bolt only loosened a little and the resulting movement destroyed a couple of threads......

this may have been because the bolts were not fully/uniformly tightened; most probably there wasn't enough tension in one bolt, and the resultant movement damaged the thread. It is usual for the first bolt to need further tightening once the second is wound in, then back to the first, and so forth. Because the teeth dig into the shoe sole, and the plastic layer creeps, it is unlike tightening bolts in many other situations. It is easy to underdo it; two or three turns are required after the bolts start offering a fair amount of resistance.

If you want to know if the bolts were tight enough to start with, back them out and look at the impression that the cleat left. You should see not only where the cleat teeth dug in, but there should be a very clear cleat-shaped depression in the sole.

NB it isn't unusual with some shoes to have to retighten the bolts after a week or so, because the sole has crept further and the cleat has settled a little. The bolts may even seem like they have loosened, but they won't usually have actually backed out. Because of this settling/creep possibility, I would advise against the use of threadlock when installing the bolts for the first time; it will obstruct retightening of the bolts should it be required.

cheers

[GarethF]

Thanks all. I'm assuming that the new cleats will locate accurately into the imprint made by the original cleats? Initially I'd considered using some silicone putty from work to make an index to help locate the new cleats, but on reflection I think that may be an unnecessary complication.
Cheers
G

[Brucey]

..... I'm assuming that the new cleats will locate accurately into the imprint made by the original cleats?.....

well, they should, but.... it has come to my notice that shimano have (unbelievably) produced cleats with more than one pattern of teeth on the bottom. Needless to say they look the same unless carefully inspected. If the new cleats are different to the older ones then they won't necessarily locate perfectly. If they are the same, then they will slot into position and in fact any small adjustment just won't be possible.

If you want to try a different cleat angle, try repositioning the cleat a few mm fore or aft of its current position; the fore and aft dimension isn't usually such a critical measurement, and the cleat will be more likely to sit at a new angle OK.

cheers

[GarethF]

I was relieved to find a tiny tube of copper grease in Halfords. And further relieved to remove the old cleats without much trouble. A fair amount of pressure on the allen key before the bolts each snapped free. The bolts themselves were pretty crusty apart from the threads which were enclosed within the sole plate. The initial 'snap' was the corrosion products being disrupted on the countersunk parts of the bolts and the washer recessed into the cleat, after which the bolts turned very freely. The new cleats located perfectly in the imprint of the old. A very satisfying piece of work.
G